KLR Has No Power When Key Turned to "ON" - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 13 Old 08-30-2012, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Question KLR Has No Power When Key Turned to "ON"

Electrical Problem Please help. I can't find anyone else who is talking about this issue, any ideas will be welcome. [My bike is a 2003 KLR650. I baby the thing, treat it really well, never abuse it, it's always garaged or covered, cleaned often, fluids changed, battery connected to battery regulater. Also, my problem started in the summer in Southern California where it hasn't rained for months]
A couple months ago I was driving when all of a sudden my entire bike turned off (no lights, no power, nothing). I thought I stalled it at first but everything just stopped working the lights went out and everything, so then I thought that it must be a fuse. I pushed it to a parking lot, went to work, and later that day I came back to pick up the bike. Without doing anything or touching anything from the morning, I put the key in and turned the bike to "on". To my surprise, all power came on. So I drove it home and continued driving it for another month or two.
During this time I had these same symptoms a couple more times. On these occasions, the bike had been parked for the day and when I would go to start it, I turned the key to "on" and I would get no response (no lights, nothing). Each of those times I was able to get past the problem by taking out the battery for a minute and then reconnecting it just like normal. Each time I would do that, the lights would come on when I turned the key to "on" and then it would fired right up and I would be on my way.
Well, it happened again two days ago, except this time, after taking out the battery and reconnecting the battery (like I had done before), I still get no response (no lights, now power, nothing) when I turn the key to "on." I have a battery tender so I know the battery is good. I've taken apart the bike and checked through the entire electrical line for blown fuses and they are all good. Interestingly, the PARK BRAKE COMES ON WHEN I TURN THE KEY TO PARK (just past lock)! Other than that, however, no power, no turn signals, no lights, no horn, certainly no starter, nothing (i.e. the park brake does not come on when I apply the brakes with the key in the "on" position).

Any ideas of where I could start?
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-30-2012, 06:55 PM
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Sounds like a bad ignition switch or bad connection.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-30-2012, 07:46 PM
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It sounds like the ignition like the pervious poster suggests, buuuuut.... other causes in order that I'd test them would be:

1. CDI (in fact I'm leaning more toward this than the ignition considering the symptom of PARK working but not RUN. This is located on the right side behind the overflow bottle and looks like a rubber coated twin box of playing cards.)

2. Battery (probably not this but SEARS can test it for real - not on a tender, which won't tell you if it is holding a charge properly - and for free.)

3. Regulator/Rectifier (probably not this but I throw it in because a faulty one can cause all sorts of havoc - this is located under the seat and looks like a big heat sink.)

Good luck.

-Mark
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-31-2012, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thanks, I'll check these out today.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero_Alligator View Post
It sounds like the ignition like the pervious poster suggests, buuuuut.... other causes in order that I'd test them would be:

1. CDI (in fact I'm leaning more toward this than the ignition considering the symptom of PARK working but not RUN. This is located on the right side behind the overflow bottle and looks like a rubber coated twin box of playing cards.)

2. Battery (probably not this but SEARS can test it for real - not on a tender, which won't tell you if it is holding a charge properly - and for free.)

3. Regulator/Rectifier (probably not this but I throw it in because a faulty one can cause all sorts of havoc - this is located under the seat and looks like a big heat sink.)

Good luck.

-Mark
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-31-2012, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiff View Post
Sounds like a bad ignition switch or bad connection.

+1 find the wires going to the switch and jump them as appropriate (look at a wiring diagram) and see if that solves the problem. You may be able to disassemble the switch and fix the contacts.

Have you looked over the wiring harness carefully?

It's not the Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) it is in the ignition circuit not the lighting circuits. On the Gen1 bikes it doesn't use battery power. The voltage regulator is mostly to charge the battery and provide a stable 12v to the lights. The lights will still light up directly from the battery that's why they get dim when the battery is low.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9

Last edited by Spec; 08-31-2012 at 02:47 PM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-06-2012, 02:59 PM
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I am having the same problem with my 2003. Did you find a solution?
Thanks
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-10-2012, 08:51 PM
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do me a favour and jumper across the two fuses under the seat - even if the fuses look good! just use a thick piece of wire across the two metal bits that hold the fuse. then try it. ill see if i can find my old post, but is sounds the same as my problem from memory. in the end my fuses looked good and even tested good with a volt meter, but they faulted when a load was applied. i ended up cutting them out, extending them over to the left side coven and replaced with water proof blade fuses. never looked back. gl

02 klr - heated vest and grips, corbin dished, EM doo, petcock mod, MB PCV mod, stainless oil filter, bash plate, mayher hand guards, low mount fender, power socket, tall windscreen, jardine exhaust, jetted, studebaker shifter, magnetic plug, airbox mod, k&N, kenda knobbies, DIY pelicans, HID light
96 zx11 - bone stock - saving for a collector plate
2011 BMW f800 GS - wild@heart crash bars, altrider skid plate, barkbusters, kako, aeroflow med, heated corbin, wolfman, kenda big blocks
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-10-2012, 08:56 PM
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here. read thru this
Electric Probs - headlight ...

02 klr - heated vest and grips, corbin dished, EM doo, petcock mod, MB PCV mod, stainless oil filter, bash plate, mayher hand guards, low mount fender, power socket, tall windscreen, jardine exhaust, jetted, studebaker shifter, magnetic plug, airbox mod, k&N, kenda knobbies, DIY pelicans, HID light
96 zx11 - bone stock - saving for a collector plate
2011 BMW f800 GS - wild@heart crash bars, altrider skid plate, barkbusters, kako, aeroflow med, heated corbin, wolfman, kenda big blocks
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-11-2012, 07:09 AM
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Ok. This is what I did.
I disconnected the battery, cleaned the terms, they looked new but what the heck.
I cleaned the kick stand switch.
Put it back together and it has miraculously started working.
I didn't get a chance to go further.
I did notice that when the bike is with the key on and I turn the bars to the left the neutral light goes out.
Also it wont start without the bike being in neutral.
Its got me scatching my head.
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-11-2012, 08:11 AM
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Take off or disengage all safety switches.....sidestand safety switch and neutral switch......sidestand is under the black plastic box type cover on left side, just join the two wires together with either solder or a good crimp and strink tube seal it, the same goes for the clutch lever switch, cut and join those two wires together and do the same good job to seal them. You can go directly into the main plugs behind the gauge cluster and do it that way too but you will need to seach out the schematic for that to be 100% sure which wires to join together as there are more than two in the plug and I can't remember which they are off the top of my head.
I would also replace the battery if it is over 3 years old or a crappy one no offence, if that is all you can afford, great no problem just keep it full and trickle charged, battery tender. Clean all connections both power and negative from start to finish for the satrting curcuit. If you can ride your bike fr a while and it goes dead after a ride when you come back to start it the battery isn't holding a charge. If you cvan run the bike after taking the battery cable off the battery the stator is charging the battery, both ways to test the battery and the charging system. You could use a multimeter and see what the output is in volts before and after the bike has started if it will start. A good battery should have very close to 12volts sitting on it's own.

Willys
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