KLR won't start - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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KLR won't start

Picked up this '99 KLR 650 back in December. Guy I bought it off of said he did the carb and it seem to run well, but he never registered it and it didn't have a license plate so I don't think he rode it much. Also I'm not sure how much time it spent sitting after he did the carb.

It has run OK since I got it, though the choke has been a problem since the beginning. Last weekend I replaced the choke cable and the bike ran fine all week (although on monday, it "ran out of gas" and I couldn't get it use reserve).

I rode the rest of the week without problems. On Sunday the bike wouldn't start at all. I took the choke cable off and I'm able to start the bike if a hold the choke wire out as far is it goes, but otherwise the bike won't start.

My best guess is the carb needs to be cleaned.
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tasslehawf View Post
Picked up this '99 KLR 650 back in December. Guy I bought it off of said he did the carb and it seem to run well, but he never registered it and it didn't have a license plate so I don't think he rode it much. Also I'm not sure how much time it spent sitting after he did the carb.

It has run OK since I got it, though the choke has been a problem since the beginning. Last weekend I replaced the choke cable and the bike ran fine all week (although on monday, it "ran out of gas" and I couldn't get it use reserve).

I rode the rest of the week without problems. On Sunday the bike wouldn't start at all. I took the choke cable off and I'm able to start the bike if a hold the choke wire out as far is it goes, but otherwise the bike won't start.

My best guess is the carb needs to be cleaned.

Has it been getting progesively harder to start? When the valves tighten up it will take more and more cranks on the starter to start and eventually won't start. It will mostly run OK with tight valves once it gets going.

When the valves are in spec it will just take a couple of revs of the starter to start. If you do a valve adjust put them out to the max. tolerances, the motor likes that!

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Am I running the risk they will eventually seize if I don't adjust them soon?
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 11:45 AM
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Does gas pour out if you open the drain screw on the bottom of the carb? If not it could be something with the petcock or something being caught in the float/carb causing it to starve for gas.
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 08:22 PM
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Am I running the risk they will eventually seize if I don't adjust them soon?

Well theoretically you could burn a valve seat but usually on single cylinder bikes you won't be able to start the motor when they get too tight.

How many miles on the bike? It's common for valves to need an adjust before 10K miles and then somewhere around 20K.

Probably should clean the carb first just to be sure that's not the problem.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9

Last edited by Spec; 02-04-2013 at 08:27 PM.
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-05-2013, 11:35 AM
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Do the simple things first , check the petcock , clean the carb thoroughly and adjust the choke to spec .check for a fouled plug , clogged air filter .. SIMPLE THINGS FIRST .. . if that does not work then have a look at the valves . its an easy job to do although finding the right shims can be the pain part if youre out of spec . when you adjust them leave them on the loose side of the spec .
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-05-2013, 01:13 PM
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check the idle mixture screw too.

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post #8 of 11 Old 02-07-2013, 05:21 PM
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Does it TRY to start? I know it is easy to point at the carb but make sure it is not one of your safety switches first...Like they said easy stuff first. If it has sat for a while that dang clutch safety switch..... AARRGGHH !
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-07-2013, 05:42 PM
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You need spark, compression, and a combustible fuel mixture to run your engine.

Assume you have the first two; you can ASSURE you have the third by using STARTING FLUID. Remove right side panel, remove air cleaner; squirt starting fluid into area of carb intake . . . then crank her up.

If it runs 'til the starting fluid is gone, then you've a carb or fuel supply problem.

Use the starting fluid judiciously; have a fire extinguisher standing by, and "Don't try this at home."

Opinion only, and a minority one at that, probably, but--the hazard of too-tight valves (provided they close fully) is burned valves, I think, rather than starting problems. If the valves close sufficiently to develop compression, engine oughta start, seems to me, but I certainly could be in error.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 12:29 PM
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any word on this ? did you check all your safety switches too ?
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