Rectifier - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 20 Old 08-23-2013, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Rectifier

I have a KLR600, all the lights have been taken off, its for off road only, the charging system is missing and need a rectifier, the original has 6 pins, how many pins do i need??
Thanks
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post #2 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 02:19 AM
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Should be a clue in the 'Base" Kawasaki KLR600 Service Manual (misplaced mine, dang it!). Kawasaki still sells these manuals, I believe.

The KLR250 regulator/rectifier has 5 connections: W (+ 12 VDC), 2-Y (Alternator coil), BK/Y (- 12 VDC/ground), and BR (switched + 12 VDC). Not sure whether the KLR600 has a single-phase (as does the KLR250) or a three-phase (as does the KLR650) alternator; if the latter, you would probably have an extra Y connection, for a total of 6 "pins."
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post #3 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millhouse View Post
I have a KLR600, all the lights have been taken off, its for off road only, the charging system is missing and need a rectifier, the original has 6 pins, how many pins do i need??
Thanks
The original should have 5 wires in a 6-connector plug. The 600 has a single-phase alternator (i.e. 2 yellow wires).

The other connections to the rectifier/regulator are:
  • + for battery
  • ground
  • + for brake, neutral, and dash lights.
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post #4 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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So I need the two yellow from the alternator yes?

so 2 yellow to the rectifier.... then what?

Sorry for my dumbness lol
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post #5 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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So after doing a little research am I right in thinking that I need a 4 PIN Rectifier?

2 Yellow from the stator to the rectifier... one ground from the rectifier and the other to the battery (with fuse in circuit)?

Thanks
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post #6 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millhouse View Post
So after doing a little research am I right in thinking that I need a 4 PIN Rectifier?

2 Yellow from the stator to the rectifier... one ground from the rectifier and the other to the battery (with fuse in circuit)?

Thanks
Millhouse, what do you want to do?

You're kinda livin' off the grid with your lash-up!

Electrically, you can rectify the single-phase AC output from your alternator power winding; however . . . Kawasaki, in its wisdom, combined a VOLTAGE REGULATOR with their OEM configuration.

The alternator is DUMB; it just puts out alternating current, dependent upon how fast its rotor rotates. Without regulation of that voltage, some undesirable consequences may occur.

Looks like a used KLR600, or perhaps even a KLR250 rectifier/regulator would insure safe, reliable DC current.

I don't know if you're trying to assimilate components from an electrical supply store to provide battery power or what. With some circuitry knowledge and a feel for the current and voltage magnitudes, that can be done. However, plugging in a purpose-built rectifier/regulator pre-solves all the circuitry problems.
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post #7 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Millhouse, what do you want to do?

You're kinda livin' off the grid with your lash-up!

Electrically, you can rectify the single-phase AC output from your alternator power winding; however . . . Kawasaki, in its wisdom, combined a VOLTAGE REGULATOR with their OEM configuration.

The alternator is DUMB; it just puts out alternating current, dependent upon how fast its rotor rotates. Without regulation of that voltage, some undesirable consequences may occur.

Looks like a used KLR600, or perhaps even a KLR250 rectifier/regulator would insure safe, reliable DC current.

I don't know if you're trying to assimilate components from an electrical supply store to provide battery power or what. With some circuitry knowledge and a feel for the current and voltage magnitudes, that can be done. However, plugging in a purpose-built rectifier/regulator pre-solves all the circuitry problems.
I am looking at getting any motorcycle regulator/rectifier that will do the job as cheaply as possible... Since I have no lights, Dashboard etc etc I shouldn't need the 6 pin regulator/rectifier at all.

As my above diagram... taking two yellows from the stator into a regulator/rectifier will output DC safely... so I assume a 4 pin will do as the outputs have to be ground and positive.
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post #8 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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post #9 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millhouse View Post
I am looking at getting any motorcycle regulator/rectifier that will do the job as cheaply as possible... Since I have no lights, Dashboard etc etc I shouldn't need the 6 pin regulator/rectifier at all.

As my above diagram... taking two yellows from the stator into a regulator/rectifier will output DC safely... so I assume a 4 pin will do as the outputs have to be ground and positive.
Maybe it's just ME, but . . . I see no symbol indicating regulation in your diagram; instead, just a couple of (half-wave) rectifiers.

The e-bay product accessible from the link you posted is called a rectifier/regulator, and its heat-sink base suggests shunt regulation. Might work, if it matches voltage and current magnitudes.

ASSUMPTION: You want to charge your battery from your alternator, without an OEM rectifier/regulator.
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post #10 of 20 Old 08-24-2013, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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I'm no good with diagrams so please excuse.

Yes I want to charge the battery without using the OEM parts.

My wiring on the bike is a simple as it gets, Power from the stator to the CDI.. CDI to the coil.

Runs the bike fine but I have yet to add the on/off start switches, charging system and cooling system
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