Need help in Albany, NY - bike won't start, just cranks - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 65 Old 08-04-2016, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Need help in Albany, NY - bike won't start, just cranks

Hey guys,

My KLR was running fine. I took off the stator cover to do the doohickey mod and then decided against following through with it so put the cover back and re-filled the oil with fresh oil and since then I've been able to start the bike once.

It's a lot to type but if anyone has any questions I'll be happy to provide the details I know/remember...but basically the gist of it is the above + I installed a new stator and the bike just cranks and cranks and cranks for 5, 10, 15 minutes until the battery dies.

I have a vlog about it on my youtube channel...search for 'FstLaneUkraine' and look at my most recent video "Major Frustrations!"

Thank you thank you thank you in advance to anyone who can help me!
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post #2 of 65 Old 08-04-2016, 10:43 AM
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Got SPARK?

FRESH fuel?

Last edited by Damocles; 08-04-2016 at 10:46 AM.
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post #3 of 65 Old 08-04-2016, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Got SPARK?

FRESH fuel?
Yes...and it's pretty fresh. I rode on the same fuel just before removing the cover (like a day before) with no issues running.

============

I guess I'll take the time to type it out for anyone who doesn't want to watch the video...here is the gist of it:

- Bike was running great for the most part. I was riding it and enjoying it as a chance of pace to my 2013 ZX6R. The only issue I was having was sometimes at a stop light the bike would idle with the clutch lever pulled in at like 3krpm...and other times it would be like 1.5krpm. Other than that, I didn't have any crazy surging, issues starting, etc. Most starts took like 5 seconds and off I went.
- I started to clean the bike up (I bought it in May with 19kmi on it and it's a 1989) by doing the coolant, air filter, brakes, etc.
- At the behest of another KLR forum community, I purchased the parts necessary to do the doohickey mod and the balance sprocket upgrade. Had the parts for a few weeks.
- Because I still needed to change the oil, I figured I'd empty the oil and then do the mod.
- I removed the oil and then took off the stator cover
- After staring at it for a bit, I decided it looked too complex for me and simply reinstalled the cover and filled the bike with brand new oil.
- I went to start it and it took like 5 minutes of cranking before the bike started. This happened another 1-2 times over the course of a few days.
- I removed the cover again to investigate what happened...in the processes, I noticed that the stator wiring harness right outside the stator cover had a cut wire (completely separated). I don't remember noticing that before...so my best guess is previous owner repaired a cut wire and did a bad job and when I was pulling off the cover I broke whatever 'fix' was used (bad soldering, etc.)
- I purchased a new stator (which comes with a new harness) and replaced it...for $40, cheap insurance.
- The bike again took a long long time to start but I did manage to get it started once. I modulated the idle after it had warmed up for a minute down to like 1.5krpm and decided I'd let it idle a few more minutes to maybe recharge the battery or what not. I left it idling and went inside for 5 minutes, no more than 10.
- I come out...and the bike is idling at like 4.5krpm and there is liquid coming out the rear tail section (NOT the exhaust if I remember correctly). It didn't look or smell like coolant. At the time I thought it might have been simply water that was trapped somewhere in the tail section and the bike vibrating so much (high RPM) had gotten it loose and it was now pouring out.
- I turned the bike off and let it cool down. Tried to start it again and nothing. Just cranks. This is basically where I am now.
- I did remove the cover another time to investigate and while doing so noticed that my coolant hoses were completely collapsed (sucked dry). I replaced them and the coolant reservoir (had a small leak) and also re-filled with new coolant. No leaks.
- When I removed the side cover, I did not notice any coolant in the oil. Oil is fine.
- At this point, I said what the hell and tried to remove the rotor to do the two mods (doohickey and balance sprockets) but only managed to get the rotor retainer bolt loose...the rotor puller was not able to budge the rotor itself. I followed a few YouTube videos and nada...nothing. I finally gave up and put everything back together. I have a tiny oil leak (like 5 drops a night) from the bottom of the cover now and ordered a new gasket to hopefully fix that...

I've checked spark but I didn't touch anything else as I don't want to make anything worse without some serious guidance. Air filter is brand new basically and fuel was fine before I took the cover off so I highly doubt that magically, it stopped getting fuel. That would have to be an INSANE coincidence.

Please help me get this running. I beg anyone lol.
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post #4 of 65 Old 08-04-2016, 11:49 AM
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High rpm? Could be air leak.

Won't start? Could be contaminated fuel, even though fresh fuel added. Careful use of starting fluid might be useful as a diagnostic, here.

Unknown liquid issuing forth; coolant hoses drained? No idea.

Wish obvious solution-oriented suggestions existed in my quiver; not so, other forum members may have 'em . . . good luck!
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post #5 of 65 Old 08-04-2016, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
High rpm? Could be air leak.

Won't start? Could be contaminated fuel, even though fresh fuel added. Careful use of starting fluid might be useful as a diagnostic, here.

Unknown liquid issuing forth; coolant hoses drained? No idea.

Wish obvious solution-oriented suggestions existed in my quiver; not so, other forum members may have 'em . . . good luck!
I have some other suggestions of testing the petcock, cleaning the carb (removing it and using something like Berryman's) and checking the coke cable...I guess I'll start with those...but if anyone has any more ideas please let me know them!
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post #6 of 65 Old 08-23-2016, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, so over the last few weeks:

- Petcock was tested, works fine
- Carb was cleaned, still won't start

My friend then took a compression test of the engine and it was very low, like ~30-40psi.

So, I'm trying to source the parts he's asking for...but I can't find the piston rings. Part numbers per PartZilla are 13008-1081, 13024-1071 and 13025-1078 but they don't seem to be made anymore/discontinued. He also said he might need some bolts (pending the stock ones don't break) and that there are 20 of them. I'm assuming these are bolts all over the engine? Not something I buy as a kit?

Does anyone know of a way to get these? Or of similar parts from another bike with different part numbers that can be used as a substitute?

Any help? Please? Thanks!

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine

Last edited by Ilya; 08-23-2016 at 03:26 PM.
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post #7 of 65 Old 08-23-2016, 03:15 PM
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More knowledgeable forum members may reply with greater moment, but . . . my understanding, piston rings for previous model KLR650s have been discontinued; thus . . . I suppose you must obtain a new piston as well, for a ring job.

Corrections and clarifications welcomed, as always.

Your friendly local Kawasaki dealer may be able to explain with some credibility.
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post #8 of 65 Old 08-23-2016, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
More knowledgeable forum members may reply with greater moment, but . . . my understanding, piston rings for previous model KLR650s have been discontinued; thus . . . I suppose you must obtain a new piston as well, for a ring job.

Corrections and clarifications welcomed, as always.

Your friendly local Kawasaki dealer may be able to explain with some credibility.
Yeah, Partzilla told me the same thing and they aren't superseded with new numbers or anything like that.

For anyone who may know, would this kit work? If I can get the gasket kit ($50 on Ebay) + Piston kit for $150 on eBay and get this thing running...I'll gladly do it over spending $600 on a parts bike or $1,000 on a motor from eBay.

"Kawasaki KLR650 1987–2011 Pro X Piston Kit Standard (100 mm)"...search for that on eBay.

(can't post URL's yet)

Cage: 2011 Infiniti M56x | Bikes: 2015 Vulcan S and 1989 KLR 650 | YouTube Vlog: FstLaneUkraine
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post #9 of 65 Old 08-23-2016, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya View Post
Okay, so over the last few weeks:

- Petcock was tested, works fine
- Carb was cleaned, still won't start

My friend then took a compression test of the engine and it was very low, like ~30-40psi.

So, I'm trying to source the parts he's asking for...but I can't find the piston rings. Part numbers per PartZilla are 13008-1081, 13024-1071 and 13025-1078 but they don't seem to be made anymore/discontinued. He also said he might need some bolts (pending the stock ones don't break) and that there are 20 of them. I'm assuming these are bolts all over the engine? Not something I buy as a kit?

Does anyone know of a way to get these? Or of similar parts from another bike with different part numbers that can be used as a substitute?

Any help? Please? Thanks!
Ilya,
I have not yet read to entire thread, but I will!

OEM Gen 1 piston and rings have not been available for several years, at this point.
I don't yet believe that you need to replace them.

First off, I'm sorry if I offend your friend, but you should Not Need any replacement bolts! (Unless you ride a lot on salty/slushy roads.)

Engine compression of only 40 psi or less.
Check and adjust the valve tappet clearance.
Re-check engine compression. We want/need 80psi +.
If still low, then do a proper leak-down test.
Where is the compression escaping to? Intake or Exhaust or Crankcase? If leak-down is with-in reason 10-15%, it may be the KACR.

The Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release!

Go measure your valve tappet clearances, before we go any further.

If it truly needs new piston and rings, use these.
658 forged piston kit

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1.
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post #10 of 65 Old 08-23-2016, 06:07 PM
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Just curious, PDW: How does the Eagle Mike big-bore kit differ from Genuine Kawasaki Parts (as in, oversize piston, rings, etc.) in price? Performance?

BTW; agree with you; further diagnosis advisable before replacing piston and rings. Low compression could be result of incorrect valve clearance, worn valve faces and/or seats; maybe KACR as well.
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