I did sell one set. I need the stopper plate and the gear-disengager to comlete the set I have. I also ordered up some extra clips and thrust washers. The stopper plate is available. For the gear disengager I'm going to modify a KX500 item. I also ordered a new kick lever return spring because they can get a bit weak and I don't know the history of the one I have. Looks good, but...
There was a complete low-mileage set-up for sale the other day and it was located up in Crockett, CA. Just missed out on it by asking questions rather than pulling the trigger. No biggie, as I do have the stuff, though my basket is a bit notched. The seller and I started a long-running conversation on the FB chat thing, so that was nice.
Now, to infinity and beyond!
I took one of my igniters and started checking from pin to pin to see where there might be circuitry in the thing. When doing this, there are two ways to check from one pin to another. Say we are checking from pin 1 to pin 5. It should be checked with the negative lead of the ohmmeter on pin 1 and the positive lead on pin 5, then they should be switched around. You'll see why in a second.
This is the baseline data:
What this tells us is that there doesn't seem to be any circuitry associated with pins 3, 4, 6, 7, 10 and 11. I need to change my graphic to note that. Since there is
circuitry associated with pins 5 and 9 (even though Kawasaki put a wire on 9 that isn't on the schematic) one might conclude that Kawasaki chose an off-the-shelf Denso item to use on the KLR. The connectors are standard Furukawa header and female connectors; nothing special about them. This exact series of connectors is readily available in 4, 6, 8, and 16 pin configurations.
Pins 8 and 16 appear to have a diode at the pin, because they don't measure the same in both directions. When we switch the leads on the ohmmeter around, the way we go against the diode shows up as infinity.
Pins 1, 5, 9, and 15 have direct connectivity to one another; not surprising as pins 9 and 15 are grounds and pin 1 must be the grounded side of the crank sensor.
Here's a simplified version with the non-active pins removed.
Now, beyond the above, all of this is about as useful as boobs on a boar. It doesn't tell us anything about the functionality of the unit.
Special thanks to Jeff for being Jeff and to Mr. Phair for teaching me about black box analysis in the sixth grade (what the hell
were you thinking?).