Fork Oil - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-23-2009, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
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Fork Oil

2008

Anyone know the factory spec for the amount of oil in each fork? Most times it is a distance from the top of the fork tube - compressed with no parts inside.

2008

Gray-haired riders donít get that way from pure luck.

Unknown
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-23-2009, 07:59 AM
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FORK OIL
Std is 429mL of 10W20
Oil change is 365mL with tubes wet
Complete change is 426-435mL with tubes dry
Free clearance between top of oil and top of fork tube is 170-190mm w/springs out, and forks fully compressed
Recommended weights
-10wt on-road (15wt for very heavy loads)
-7.5wt off-road (10wt very heavy loads)
Can use ATF if fork oil is not available

2008 DL650 VStrom Yellow and Black
Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
Looking to get back into KLR's sometime soon.

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post #3 of 9 Old 02-23-2009, 10:13 AM
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Can use ATF if fork oil is not available
If I remember correctly, ATF Type F is 7.5wt..
I use 14oz. of ATF in my tubes.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-23-2009, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Are we talking '08 specs ?

Something is waaay off. I checked it before draining and seen 130 - 135 mm (about 5-1/4") from the top with spring, washer and tube out.
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-23-2009, 07:25 PM
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I set mine at 135mm per manual 2008 klr fully compressed..
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-24-2009, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks fattkaw, that sounds more like it !

Trying to set the sag and reduce the amount of braking dive on the cheap using 1" spacers and 15w oil. LYK.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-25-2009, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got it done. Had to go back on day two for another liter of oil...takes just a bit more than one liter to get the level at 135 mm. Quite pleased with the results, less dive on braking and the sag is less for my 220 lbs. Not bad for a cheapo mod. Would really have liked to have gotten springs wound for my weight and emulators. We will see how this works out in the long run.

This really didn't start out to modify the forks, just kind of got there via re-lubing and setting the steering head bearings, which by the way had some kind of pasty green grease in them. Probably would have been OK left alone but I wanted to inspect since I did the swingarm and uni-trac bearings a while ago and found them almost devoid of lubricant.

Also made a steering stem nut socket so I could torque to 43 in. lbs. per a torque sheet I got a hold of. That spec worked great, no play and not binding.

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by flash; 02-25-2009 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Addition
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-25-2009, 07:51 PM
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yea the 08 forks do need a fix for out weight range.
for myself I stuck with the 10w oil but a good brand.
did the progressive springs and it is a HUGE improvement.
compression is a little on the hard side for off-road but on the street and fire roads it rocks.
Good thing you changed out that green bearing grease, my bearings were rotted!!
BTW: that tool looks sweet. my dad makes stuff like that sometimes for me.
Are you a machinist??
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-26-2009, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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There is a lot going on inside that fork. Compression and rebound damping (that is non adjustable from the factory), oil weight, temperature, spring tension / length / preload, and the wildcard.....the amount of air cushion left by setting the oil level at 135 or say 150 or 100 mm.

Yeah, a lowly machinist.
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