Brand new 2016 KLR Weird High Idle - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 23 Old 02-08-2017, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Brand new 2016 KLR Weird High Idle

Hey folks,

First, thanks for all the advice no one knew they were giving me. Been lurking for a while considering my first bike. Thrilled to have picked up a KLR this past Saturday.

I've put about 50 cautious miles on it so far of around town riding. Yesterday I noticed the bike isn't idling properly after warming up. I expect I will have to use the warranty, but it will be a couple of days before I can haul it to the closest dealer and I am holding out hope there is something obvious or easy that might get me back in the saddle sooner.

It's been cold here so I've needed to use the choke to start each morning. Warms up in a minute or two as I slowly work the choke back in keeping the revs under 2k. It idles fine for a while. The problem is that after a couple of miles, when I pull the clutch in, the engine idles around 2-3k which seems problematic. The throttle mechanism/cable is working great and does not appear to be the culprit.

Anyone have tips or ideas for what to check or something I may be doing wrong while I'm waiting to get it to a mechanic?


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post #2 of 23 Old 02-08-2017, 08:27 PM
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Hi Bo,

Is this a brand new bike, or a slightly used one?

If it is a slightly used one, how many miles are on it and did it, to your knowledge, sit for some time without being run?

edit: Duh. The title says it is brand new, so I'll assume it is fresh off the showroom floor.

To review, here's pretty much how it should work:

In relatively civil weather (not much colder than 40ish F) you should engage the 'choke'. The choke is really an enricher that admits extra fuel rather than reducing the air as a choke does.

Petcock on, it should start within five seconds of cranking. It should run at a pretty fast idle. Let it do that for 15 seconds and then begin to disengage the enricher. After a minute or so it should be idling well at about 1000 rpm. It should stay at 1000rpm idle.

Now, the Gen 2 bikes have an air injection system, but I don't think that should come into play with the idle, as it injects air into the exhaust through the top of the head. Paul may have a better understanding of that.

If it is idling at ~1000rpm all is well. If it later increases to 2-3K rpm then there is something wrong with the idle circuit or the slide.

If, however, it always idles at 2-3Krpm after it's warmed up then it might be as simple as backing off on the throttle screw that is on the side of the carburetor.

So, what's it doing? If you simply let it sit and run at idle, does it idle at ~1000rpm?

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 02-08-2017 at 08:30 PM.
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post #3 of 23 Old 02-08-2017, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply, Tom. It's a brand new bike: 1 mile on it when I took it home. I just took it around the neighborhood to confirm the behavior.

Cranked up with a few seconds of choke. Turned the choke off and it idled between 1.5k and 2k. Riding it for the first few minutes was fine - didn't get it much above 3k rpms getting out of the neighborhood. After that (5-10 minutes) I was able to open it up a little and get it up to 4-5k rpms on bigger streets. That is about when it started happening. What happened is that when I would roll off the throttle and squeeze the clutch, the revs would stay "stuck" where they were for a few seconds.

I tested it out by accelerating through third gear, getting up to 4-5k rpms then rolling off and squeezing the clutch. It took about 10 seconds of coasting for the engine to wind down from 5k to the normal idle speed.

The only thing I've done to the bike so far is put gas in it and adjust the clutch cable tightness. I mistakenly tried to put the action closer to the middle of the lever range by loosening the cable, then after a ride like that realized there was too much play and screwed it what I believe is close to where it was originally.

One thing to note: with the bike in neutral, revving the engine to 4-5k does not replicate the behavior - it only seems to happen when I'm pulling the clutch in and rolling off the throttle.

Describing this it seems so likely that I either have done or am doing something dumb.

Thanks again!


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post #4 of 23 Old 02-08-2017, 11:21 PM
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Do you feel like the clutch is completely disengaging/releasing?

When idling normally in neutral, will the bike nudge in to first gear OK or does it thump and lurch forward some?
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post #5 of 23 Old 02-09-2017, 12:31 AM
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I'm going to have to defer to someone like Paul. There have been some changes to the later carburetors and my 'KLR Development' stalled out at about '09.

I could see this being some sort of emissions thing but don't know how they would have implemented it. They might have done something to the decel valve.

Tom

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post #6 of 23 Old 02-09-2017, 12:38 AM
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I don't know about the emission stuff either, buy Bo mentioned messing with the clutch adjustment and that it doesn't do it in neutral, so I'm wondering if it's a dragging clutch. So the rear tire is turning the motor and causing what seems like a sticking throttle.

95% of actual hanging idles are a result of a vacuum leak IME.

That's all the ideas I've got. Good luck, Bo.
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post #7 of 23 Old 02-09-2017, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinyribs View Post
...so I'm wondering if it's a dragging clutch...

95% of actual hanging idles are a result of a vacuum leak IME....
All sounds plausible to me, too.

Tom

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #8 of 23 Old 02-09-2017, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinyribs View Post
Do you feel like the clutch is completely disengaging/releasing?

When idling normally in neutral, will the bike nudge in to first gear OK or does it thump and lurch forward some?


I may be too much of a novice to tell if it's completely disengaging. It actually _does_ thump/lurch a little bit when I put it in first.

Anything I can test/adjust to validate that hypothesis?


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post #9 of 23 Old 02-09-2017, 08:45 AM
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Almost all bikes will lurch a bit, especially when cold. But once the bike is warmed up it should just about all be gone. KLRs in particular lurch hard when initially put in gear cold, bit they bike shouldn't continue to drive forward after the initial clunk. It's noticeable,but not severe.

As long as you've got a little free play at the clutch lever you should be fine. With the bike in first , clutch lever to the grip, hand and foot off the brake- if you rev the motor will the bike try to crawl forward?
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post #10 of 23 Old 02-09-2017, 09:56 AM
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If a new bike . . . why not run it by the dealership shop?

Too-fast idle should be a warranty issue, IMHO.

I think 1250 rpm is nominal idle speed, more-or-less.
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