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post #1 of 24 Old 05-10-2011, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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KLX 650 Carb Help

Hi All

I am new to the site. I joined after purchasing a 1996 KLX 650. It is really clean, however it has been setting in a barn since 2009. I cleaned the tank, installed new hoses and spark plug. It would run 1-2 seconds then die. I took it to a local shop, where the carb was cleaned, the mechanic told me the bike has an aftermarket exhaust (ITP) so the carb should have a larger jet (44) there was a 38 in it. This thisng is really hard to start when its cold, full choke, then no choke , half choke....all the while hitting a second or two then dieing...about 10 mins of this then it will start. After it warms up starts easy. Also, smells really rich, passenger gets fumigated.
Help a Kawasaki 650 newby....please.

Thanks
Alan
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-10-2011, 11:26 AM
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Hi Allen, welcome to the forum. Your carburetor, if it is the stock issued carb, is a Keihin CV40, same as the KLR 650's and all the Evo HD motorcycles. Meaning you have a pretty large pool of expertise to draw from.

You may have two common issues to deal with.....a bike that has sat, and "previous owner tweaking". Be patient, it all can be worked out.

******
“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"
[/I]
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post #3 of 24 Old 05-12-2011, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I changed the jet from 147 (smelled really rich, made fender black and clothes stink) to the 138 which was in it when I bought it, it ran like crap(with 138)....cutting out at higher RPM. Changed 138 to 142.5 ran really good and didnt have any fuel smell....
However, this thing is a real pain to start when its cold!!! PLEASE HELP
I installed new battery, I have to choke it full then let it in half way numerous times as it hits a few then dies, it usually takes 10 mins of this before it idles on its on. After it runs a little while , it will start up with no effort....but if it cools it is "pain in rear" start procedure all over. Today it was 75 degrees outside and i began the start procedure but it was worse than ever and it ran dwon the battery before fully starting!!
Is there and adjustment on the choke or something someone can tell me about this to help...?

Thanks
Alan
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post #4 of 24 Old 05-12-2011, 07:27 PM
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Couple of questions.....

Do you know if and when the valve setting was last checked?

Have you disassembled the enricher [choke] to verify that is functioning properly? The lever moving back and forth on the bars isn't an indication the plunger is following suite.

Your hard starting probably isn't related to anything beyond the enriching circuit, if the problem lies in the carburetor. I'd try to focus on one issue at a time. Get the hard starting resolved, then move on to your other circuit jetting.

******
“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"
[/I]
[IMG]http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww187/vatrader01/KLR%20mechanical/04e28c5e.jpg[/IMG]

[FONT="Century Gothic"][I]Sometimes your only available transportation is a leap of faith[/I] [/FONT]
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post #5 of 24 Old 05-12-2011, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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I dont know wehn the valves were set last.
How do I check the enricher?

Thanks
Alan
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post #6 of 24 Old 05-12-2011, 09:56 PM
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How many miles on the bike, and did it cold start OK for the mechanic that cleaned the carburetor?

The enricher can be taken out of the carburetor to make sure that the plunger is working properly, it is a simple set up and if you pull it out you will see not much can go wrong with it. It needs to function as in the diagram below. The enricher plunger sets in a plastic housing that can break easier than an egg. I've found choke cables adjusted at the handle bar so that the plunger could not complete it's full range of travel. You could take the plunger out, check for damage and full range of movement with the choke lever.


******
“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"
[/I]
[IMG]http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww187/vatrader01/KLR%20mechanical/04e28c5e.jpg[/IMG]

[FONT="Century Gothic"][I]Sometimes your only available transportation is a leap of faith[/I] [/FONT]
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post #7 of 24 Old 05-13-2011, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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The bike has 6008 miles currently, according to the previous owner the valves have never been set.
The mechanic started it up after he cleaned the carb, it would start after sveral mins of jocking the choke but yesterday was the worst and after I drove it home it smelled rich again, so maybe it was the choke sticking....?

Thank you,
Alan
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post #8 of 24 Old 05-13-2011, 12:18 PM
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Certainly a possibility that the choke is not functioning properly. I'm a liitle suspicious of the choke housing being broken, as the bike just had the carb cleaned. Either the carb was removed, or rolled, either situation putting the choke housing at risk. I'd look into that. The plastic nut that holds the enricher in place at the carburetor is a lesson in patience, looking for a place to happen. It's just plastic. You can over come it.

Tight valves will cause hard starting, usually for a hot engine. If the valves have become tight enough, it will be hard to start anytime. Need to put setting the valves next on the agenda. If they're real tight, getting them loosened up again will be like unleashing 15 more horse power.

******
“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"
[/I]
[IMG]http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww187/vatrader01/KLR%20mechanical/04e28c5e.jpg[/IMG]

[FONT="Century Gothic"][I]Sometimes your only available transportation is a leap of faith[/I] [/FONT]
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post #9 of 24 Old 05-14-2011, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, the mechanic changed the jet by rolling the carb. I will check the plastic nut.
Next , the valves....I would assume the valves would loosen with use....not tighten...?

Thanks
Alan
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post #10 of 24 Old 05-14-2011, 12:52 PM
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Rolling the carburetor is what usually breaks the enricher housing, if the enricher was left in place. Did this mechanic get your bike to start cold easily, once he cleaned the carburetor? Was this the reason you had the carb cleaned to begin with?

Valves will get tighter from wear, the opposite one would suppose. When an exhaust valve tightens up to the point where it is not able to fully close, it
retains it's heat, and the valve can burn. If an intake valve tightens
up too much, the air/fuel mix can blow back through the carburetor, creating a hard starting condition, and a gradual loss of power.


http://www.starbacks.ca/~klrdsn/page27.html

http://klr650.carguy.org/shims.html


******
“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"
[/I]
[IMG]http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww187/vatrader01/KLR%20mechanical/04e28c5e.jpg[/IMG]

[FONT="Century Gothic"][I]Sometimes your only available transportation is a leap of faith[/I] [/FONT]
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