How to change front fork oil? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:03 AM
carlecamp carlecamp is offline
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Default How to change front fork oil?

I have 2008 KLR650, bought used without manual so bought a Clymer manual. The front suspension is very soft. Manual says "Before presuming that an internal fork problem exists, drain the fork oil and refill with the proper type and quantity" Spec's: Fork oil Kayaba KHL34-G10 or equivalent, and quantity at 500 cc per leg.

Can I just remove the Allen bolt in the bottom of each leg to drain the oil, then refill from the top or do I have to take the forks off first?

I have the handle bars off (getting new bars and guards), have a center stand, etc. but don't want to make a mistake and create a complex problem with the forks.
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:44 AM
PHBiker PHBiker is offline
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It's better if you tip the whole motorcycle upside down before draining the oil, er, at least it's funnier.
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:27 AM
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thetable thetable is offline
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You're going to need to refill based on height from the top with the fork vertical and the spring/spacer removed, so the fork is going to need to come out of the triples regardless. The quantity of oil listed is more of a "you need to have this much on hand" measurement.

If I remember correctly, the hex screw on the bottom holds the damper rod in place, and you need a tool to hold the damper rod so you can remove that screw.

Once the bike is in the air, it is a surprisingly simple job to pull the fork legs.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:11 AM
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Spec Spec is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlecamp View Post
I have 2008 KLR650, bought used without manual so bought a Clymer manual. The front suspension is very soft. Manual says "Before presuming that an internal fork problem exists, drain the fork oil and refill with the proper type and quantity" Spec's: Fork oil Kayaba KHL34-G10 or equivalent, and quantity at 500 cc per leg.

Can I just remove the Allen bolt in the bottom of each leg to drain the oil, then refill from the top or do I have to take the forks off first?

I have the handle bars off (getting new bars and guards), have a center stand, etc. but don't want to make a mistake and create a complex problem with the forks.

You need to take off the forks. Don't unscrew the allen on the bottom unless you want to take the forks apart.

The OEM fluid looked like ATF to me, it's commonly used in damper rod forks. ATF is about 10 wt.

There are no viscoustiy standards for suspension fluid, 1 manufactuer's 7 wt may be another's 10. Here's a good page explaining that.

The stock forks had too much brakeing dive for me. I replaced the ATF with a 15 wt. fork oil (looked at the oil chart on that page) and raised the level up about 100cc. Much better not as supple but I'll take that.
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Last edited by Spec; 02-29-2012 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:12 PM
Gatecrasher Gatecrasher is offline
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I bought a set of progressive springs. Just remove the top caps, slowly remove existing spring, insert new spring. Measure oil height and top off if needed.

Ride the bike

Big improvement on the road for not many dollars. Cartridge emulator would be the ultimate however it is also the most expensive.
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Old 02-29-2012, 09:10 PM
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ATF is actually 7.5W.. With my Progressive springs and fat guy weight, 5w was too soft and I didn't like the 10w feel.. Been running ATF type F for years on the KLR and actually many bikes..
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:15 AM
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the guys are right. just turn the forks over with the springs and spacers out and pump them. this will get 99% of the fluid out. you can hang them over night and let them drip but that is really overkill.

here's a little idea of the spring difference ---- http://www.fattkaw.com/2008/07/progr...-to-stock.html
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