RPM's Between Gears - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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Old 05-29-2007, 09:31 AM
Auroracycler Auroracycler is offline
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Default RPM's Between Gears

Recently took my bike in for its 500 mile check up and when I got it back I noticed that when shifting between gears the RPM's were not dropping as quickly as I feel that they should to allow me to optimize the full range of the next gear. Idle is holding at the recommended 1200-1300 RPM.

Consulted the manual and it mentions an adjustment to back side of the acceleration handle and by loosening the tightening nut just beyond the handle I added some play to the acceleration and dececeleration wire as recommended and it seems to get a bit better but I still find that I need to hold the clutch in a bit longer than I would like to accomplish the drop in RPM's before I enter the next gear.

Could it be the choke that needs to have some play that could be causing the higher RPM's at operating speed? Any other ideas?

Many Thanks
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Old 05-29-2007, 02:05 PM
larryboy larryboy is offline
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Originally Posted by Auroracycler View Post
Could it be the choke that needs to have some play that could be causing the higher RPM's at operating speed? Any other ideas?

Many Thanks
I'd start there, good thinking.

<< just trying out a new smilie..nothing intended.
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Old 05-31-2007, 03:17 PM
Auroracycler Auroracycler is offline
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
I'd start there, good thinking.

<< just trying out a new smilie..nothing intended.
I worked on the choke to no avail and took my bike to the shop and spent a few minutes with the technician. He fired it up and noticed the delay at the RPM top end and immediately concluded that the carb needed to be re-jetted.

Supposidly, the factory adjusts the carb to meet emissions and that is not the optimal setting for riding after they are sold and emissions are in the rear view mirror. The technician said that just about every recent KLR he sees suffers from this condition some to one degree or another. Mine seemed to be a littel bit worse than some he has seen recently. Hope I can talk them out of the repair bill....

Onward!
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Old 05-31-2007, 04:55 PM
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DXKLR DXKLR is offline
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You might do a search for the air mixture mod. It involves removing the factory plug and opening up the screw another 3/4 of a turn or so. Made a big difference in my bike. I did this and the safety switch bypass mods after my 500 mile service.
Here's a great link with step by step procedure.
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Carb_AirMix.pdf
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Old 05-31-2007, 05:06 PM
Auroracycler Auroracycler is offline
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Originally Posted by DXKLR View Post
You might do a search for the air mixture mod. It involves removing the factory plug and opening up the screw another 3/4 of a turn or so. Made a big difference in my bike. I did this and the safety switch bypass mods after my 500 mile service.
Here's a great link with step by step procedure.
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Carb_AirMix.pdf

Excellent.Thanks for the information.

Ride on!
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Old 05-31-2007, 05:22 PM
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http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=2579

This is my link showing some pictures. I decided to use a really small drill bit and a mechanics pick to remove the plug. Much easier to do without possibly messing up the mixture screw with a larger bit.
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Old 05-31-2007, 06:19 PM
on2wheels52 on2wheels52 is offline
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What did they do at the 500 mile service that would account for the change in rideability?
Jim
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Old 05-31-2007, 07:04 PM
Auroracycler Auroracycler is offline
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What did they do at the 500 mile service that would account for the change in rideability?
Jim
I have no idea. All I know is that when I was riding the bike before this service carefully varying the RPM's as instructed the bike seemed to act more like I expected it should relative to RPM variations when the throttle was backed off. After the service it is clearly exhibiting a hesitation at the top end that is most noticable in the low end of the gear box between gears. Efforts to put slack in the choke, and throttle linkage proved fruitless and that is when I took the bike to the dealer and asked to speak directly to the technician about the symptoms. A couple of twists of the throttle while watchig the RMP gage was all that the technicial needed to conclude that the carb jet needed to be modified to get things back to where things should be. His comment about the regularity of this condition from the factory with the emphasis on passing emissions as the primary objective was more than a bit concerning as this variable is obviously out of the control of consumers.

At the end of the day I just want my KLR 650 to perform as optimally as possible and that is where the buck stops for all of us.
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Old 06-01-2007, 03:01 AM
larryboy larryboy is offline
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At your altitude the bike won't be running lean. It kind of sounds like a rich condition, that's why I asked about the choke cable. You may need to lean out the main jet to run better on your home turf..I'd imagine you ride a lot at 5500 feet and up.
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Old 06-01-2007, 11:52 PM
Auroracycler Auroracycler is offline
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I went ahead and had the shop technician do the carb work because he knew what he was doing and get me out the door in about an hour. I have been far to busy at work to attend to it and I want to ride this weekend. Cost me $40 but she runs like a scalded dog now and the RPM's drop off perfectly at the top end as they should. I am pleased at getting this issue behind me.

Cheers!
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