1986 klr650 won't start - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-28-2011, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
dlh
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Unhappy 1986 klr650 won't start

My klr needs a 50 amp boost from a battery charger to start either hot or cold. With the boost it starts right up and runs fine. Without the boost the engine just spins not even a pop? The battery's new. Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-28-2011, 02:28 PM
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KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release) working o.k.?

The starting ignition voltage depends upon the cranking speed; the KACR should permit reasonably easy start-up cranking.
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-28-2011, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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How would I check the KACR?
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-28-2011, 03:49 PM
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Even new do not rule out a bad battery. That or bad connection.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-28-2011, 04:13 PM
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Somebody has to say it. There was no KLR650 in 1986

'06 KLR650
'06 DL1000 V-Strom
VTX1300R....Gone
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-28-2011, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Rainier_Tom View Post
Somebody has to say it. There was no KLR650 in 1986
Could be a KLR600, I reckon . . .

Hey, dlh; does your bike have a kick-start lever? KLR600's had a kicker, KLR650's do not.

Or, did you mis-identify the year?

Anyway, removing the valve cover, you can watch to see if the KACR, on the end of the exhaust camshaft, nudges open slightly an exhaust valve on compression stroke at cranking speed of crankshaft rotation.

Purpose: Ease of start-up cranking. After engine fires and rpm increase, KACR withdraws and no longer cracks an exhaust valve at running speed . . .
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-28-2011, 04:36 PM
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Hey dlh, welcome to the forum. You should find all kinds of help here. First off, not that it matters much, but do you have an '86 Kawasaki KLR 650, or a KLR 600? I believe the 650's came out in '87. Not that it matters that much. The bikes are quite similar, and I imagine that what ever is causing your grief will apply to either bike.

For some reason, my suspicions lean towards that new battery you have. If possible, take it back and have it tested. If you have a voltmeter, a 12-volt battery that is adequately charged will display a reading between 12.5 and 12.8 volts. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage, fully charged, will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges.

That KACR has been the culprit of starting issues. I like to start with the simple things and work into the more complicated [meaning expensive] diagnostics. If you can rule out the battery and / or starter as being the source of your woes, we'll help you through a plan of trouble shooting. Any other information you can give us about the bike, its condition, etc. will be helpful.

Again, welcome to the forum!

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post #8 of 8 Old 01-29-2011, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlh View Post
My klr needs a 50 amp boost from a battery charger to start either hot or cold. With the boost it starts right up and runs fine. Without the boost the engine just spins not even a pop? The battery's new. Any suggestions?

You might have a bad connection at the battery/cable. The additional current from the boost can overcome corrosion. Did you clean the connectors when you put the new battery on? I use emery cloth and get them nice and shiny.

Other than that it's likely an upstream electrical issue: voltage regulator or the CDI maybe. Do you have a shop manual? There's ways to check them using a meter.

I don't think it's a problem with the kacr or the valve timing if it starts right up with the boost, it's got to be electrical IMHO.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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