I've been fortunate enough to have a few BMW and some old school Kawasaki mechanics around, so I've never needed to keep a shim kit. For a good number of years a local Ford dealer had a huge shim kit on hand for adjusting 1995 and older Taurus SHO Yamaha engines. The dealership changed hands, and the shim kit disappeared.
For a stock head with factory stock valves, chances are if you need adjustment, you can probably swap shims from one bucket to another to cover a few of the replacements. Then a trip to the BMW shop for the remainder. If the BMW shop has previously used shims, ask or bring along a metric mic to check thickness. Even the new shim should be checked before installation. The shim thickness range will usually run from .260 to .235 for stock heads and valves. Buying a shim kit hasn't seemed reasonable to me because the majority of the shims in a kit I'll never use, being way too thick, or too thin for KLR 650 applications. Altered heads and valves will require different specifications, so none of this is the KLR Gospel. YMMV. I do make damn sure the BMW guy closest to me is present and accounted for before I tear into a valve adjust. It may be helpful to call your closest shop to confirm they have shims, and have a few in the thicknesses commonly needed for the KLR 650.
The only thing I'd suggest is to have gasket maker / sealer or a replacement gasket for the cam chain tensioner. I've found them difficult to preserve, and will leak like a sieve if you reinstall the cam tensioner with a less than perfect gasket.
“many a trip continues long after movement in time and space have ceased”- Steinbeck, [I]"Travels with Charlie"
[FONT="Century Gothic"][I]Sometimes your only available transportation is a leap of faith[/I] [/FONT]