CARB LEAKING GAS / IDLE ISSUES 2000klr 650 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-28-2013, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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CARB LEAKING GAS / IDLE ISSUES 2000klr 650

This is not my first forum group and i know the proper etiquette is to exhaustively search the forum for your answers first and i have taken that step.

That said...i have a carb that runs fine under power but either idles high or stalls.Very rarely will it idle properly and is worse when hot. Occasionally gas will choose to leak out of the drain tube at a pretty good flow and then will stop for no apparent reason for weeks.

I have not adjusted the valves yet but will.I have removed the carb and given it a good cleaning. Am i looking at a complete carb rebuild kit? The bike has 40,000 or so miles and i have no idea what the previous owner has done to it. However...he didnt seem to be much of a fixer as he bypassed the start switch on the lever and installed a push button cranking system..key still turns on and off.

Any thoughts much appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-28-2013, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by krimpoo View Post
This is not my first forum group and i know the proper etiquette is to exhaustively search the forum for your answers first and i have taken that step.

That said...i have a carb that runs fine under power but either idles high or stalls.Very rarely will it idle properly and is worse when hot. Occasionally gas will choose to leak out of the drain tube at a pretty good flow and then will stop for no apparent reason for weeks.

I have not adjusted the valves yet but will.I have removed the carb and given it a good cleaning. Am i looking at a complete carb rebuild kit? The bike has 40,000 or so miles and i have no idea what the previous owner has done to it. However...he didnt seem to be much of a fixer as he bypassed the start switch on the lever and installed a push button cranking system..key still turns on and off.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

First thing I thought of is that the float valve is bad. Sounds like it's getting hung up sometimes. Should be a nice taper to the rubber tip any wear it needs to be replaced.

There isn't a rebuild kit that I'm aware of. How's the slide diaphragm thingy look, rubber in good shape no pin holes, etc.?

I would check for air leaks around the intakes. Spray some starter fluid, carb cleaner or brake cleaner while the bike is idleing. If there's a leak the idle will pick up.

Is the bike hard to start? Does it take more than 2-3 spins of the starter to get it going? If so check the valves.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-28-2013, 02:07 PM
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IMHO, I would take the carb off and do a complete clean up of it. Soak it in the old Pinesol trick, it works wonders. Just not the two diaphrams or slider. Leave it in the solution for 24 hours giving it a shake a few times just to loosen up any hard crud or maybe even get the tooth brush out and give her a go. Rinse well in hot water....
Then blast out all air/fuel passages with spray carb cleaner to get whatever is left hiding inside them, then blast one final time with compressed air. The reassemble taking care to make sure everything else is perfectly clean also. No partially plugged jets etc. If the pilot jet hasn't been unplugged do this first as you want to get the pilot jet out also.

Where abouts in Canada are you? If near Toronto...I live just north if you need help getting this work done.

Hope this helps.....

Willys
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-28-2013, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick response guys. Appreciate the offer to help but i'm a west coast guy on a small island in the salish sea. I have done a thorough carb clean but i'll try your method and check for the air leaks. The intake boot does look a little dry and old.

I didn't know you couldn't buy rebuild kits so i guess its fix or replace? Is there a skookum aftermarket carb guys have been installing if need be ?


It doesn't start easily and i saw your response to another fellow suggesting valve adjustment so i'm sure it needs it. Hell of a bike when it's down the road though.I have gone 2 years with it running this way because i never have to be in traffic but it's time to get it sorted out for the new summer.
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-28-2013, 03:15 PM
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There are rebuild kits available for the CV40 that wa used on the Harley Davidsons. One complete kit has new floats and inlet valve, plus gaskets and jets. The jets would be useless, but you can re-use what you have. They don't wear out :^)

Please note that the CV40 has some differences fromteh CVK40 - primarily it is a pumper carb and recently we also found out that the needle jet is a different diameter.

Here's one link so you can see what sort of stuff is available. You'd probably have to do mail order unless you've got a good Harley dealership on that small island, and you'd want to do a good search to make sure you're getting what you need. I chose the one above simply because it included the floats.

Can you ferry over to Bellingham or Vancouver and visit a Harley dealer?

Skagit Harley-Davidson
www.skagitharley.com
3 Google reviews
1337 S Goldenrod Rd
Burlington
(360) 757-1515

Sound Harley-Davidson
www.soundharley.com
Score: 25 / 30 - 10 Google reviews
16212 Smokey Point Blvd
Marysville
(360) 454-5000

Barnes Harley-Davidson
www.barneshd.com
Score: 17 / 30 - 10 Google reviews
8859 201 St
Langley, BC
+1 604-534-6044

T

Tom [email protected]

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 02-28-2013 at 03:21 PM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-01-2013, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the info Tom. This island is very small but i get to vancouver often. If i need parts this info helps a ton. Now i gotta' find time to tear down that carb and clean inspect properly. Oh ya..and the valves.
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-01-2013, 03:42 PM
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like willys said , clean your carb .. this will solve your problem setting it up properly and drilling the slide , shimming the needle and turning up the mixture screw will wake the beast up .. search .22cent mod .
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post #8 of 8 Old 03-01-2013, 05:42 PM
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If you can afford the huge cost of the KLX needle kit at Aviciouscycle....it's by far the better way to go, over the 22 cent mod. And as Jeeps said, drill the slider, correctly set up the pilot jet screw, a UNI filter and remove your snorkle.
You will be pleasantly surprised with these small mods.
If you need more info just ask or PM me....which ever is best......but remember it's a very slippery slope once you get the bug.......or is that sickness.....farklitis....no know cure, well yes there is.....buy all known farkles and you are thus cured......I'm still infected, but close....lol.

www.aviciouscycle.ca

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