KLR left foot peg bracket stripped - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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KLR left foot peg bracket stripped

I was looking at getting a center stand when I realized the brackets on the frame where the foot peg screws on (on the left side), the threaded holes are stripped.

Going out to look at the bike, the best thing to do will probably be to drill out the holes slightly large and cut new threads in the frame bracket.

I can't use nuts because of the enclosed box. Should a try to fabricate something? Any other suggestions. Also really hoping not to have to tear down the frame...
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post #2 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tasslehawf View Post
I was looking at getting a center stand when I realized the brackets on the frame where the foot peg screws on (on the left side), the threaded holes are stripped.

Going out to look at the bike, the best thing to do will probably be to drill out the holes slightly large and cut new threads in the frame bracket.

I can't use nuts because of the enclosed box. Should a try to fabricate something? Any other suggestions. Also really hoping not to have to tear down the frame...

There are thin nuts welded on the backside of the bracket/box. It's a fairly common failure to strip the thread because the nuts are shallow. Cutting new threads in the nuts won't solve the problem for long. Try a helicoil and see how that holds that will about double the thread length. Next step would be to open up the brackets and weld some full size nuts in there or weld on a thick plate, drill and tap.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #3 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Spec View Post
There are thin nuts welded on the backside of the bracket/box. It's a fairly common failure to strip the thread because the nuts are shallow. Cutting new threads in the nuts won't solve the problem for long. Try a helicoil and see how that holds that will about double the thread length. Next step would be to open up the brackets and weld some full size nuts in there or weld on a thick plate, drill and tap.
Man. I haven't seen a helicoil in 10 years. Great idea!
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post #4 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tasslehawf View Post
Man. I haven't seen a helicoil in 10 years. Great idea!

I'd like to take credit for it but...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643835

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #5 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 03:51 PM
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It is a common problem. I won't go on a rant about it, but will say that the cause is from allowing the foot peg bolts to be insufficiently tightened. A friend and I went though the math to figure out what the force to overcome a properly tightened bolt was (we were figuring out the load placed onthe bolts by lowering brackets) and it's huge.

I think the best repair is to use TimeSerts. Properly installed, they are incredibly strong.

Once installed, it's important to make sure that the peg bolts are always properly torqued. Once they are allowed to become a bit loose they will strip. Properly torqued you'd have to weigh about 400 pounds and come down hard enough from completely airborne to fully bottom the suspension in order to damage them.

I said I wouldn't rant, but I did just a bit. I won't rant about installing grade 10 bolts, though...

T

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 04-22-2013 at 03:53 PM.
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post #6 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 04:46 PM
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I agree it is a common problem for those of us who mount their steeds like a horse, myself included. I have repaired a few now. I open up the box and weld in a thicker plate and drill and tap new holes. Then use grade 10 bolts. Problem solved. Although it isn't that easy to do, it is by far the best fix. I also have dropped pegs and hold up very well with this system. I switched mine to this method after seeing a few guys with stripped out bolts. I have also seen guys weld the pegs directly on.....that will come back to bite you in the arse!!
Just saying....I have fixed that issue also...lol.
As stated earlier, the only thing back there is a shallow nut spot welded onto the back of the box. I have seen a few where the nut has let go, resulted in the same BS.

If you can replace the plate with a stronger one.

Willys
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post #7 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 05:15 PM
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Same fix here. I ground off the face plate. Made a new face plate and spot welded a pair of stacked nuts for more threads, welded back in place. Yes, torque wrench is your friend.
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post #8 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 05:32 PM
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Those grade 10 bolts. Gotta luv 'em. They will never fail. If anything is going to fail, it will be what they are screwed into.

T

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #9 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 08:41 PM
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post #10 of 15 Old 04-22-2013, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigES View Post
Craig re-did mine and should put together an upgrade kit for KLRs (hint, hint).

I was told that Eagle Mike sold a kit.
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