Intake & Exhaust Gears Don't Line Up - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 25 Old 10-30-2006, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Intake & Exhaust Gears Don't Line Up

Been having some hard starting issues, and when I get it running after a backfire or two it just doesn't sound right.

Here we are at TDC.


Here's the Exhaust marks.


Now, here's the Intake marks.



Now, the Clymer just show how it's supposed to look, as well as other net resources. However, what they don't tell you what to do if they don't line up. What's the proceedure here?
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post #2 of 25 Old 10-30-2006, 01:22 PM
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looks like your intake side is off by one tooth. pull the cam chain tensioner, loosen the intake cam caps and rotate the cam one tooth to get the arrow to line up with the top of the case.

tighten everything back down and re-install the tensioner by the manual and you should be ok.

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post #3 of 25 Old 10-30-2006, 01:25 PM
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You would need to rotate the intake cam one tooth to get it lined up. That would include removing valve cover, loosen tensioner, lift chain off of intake cam and move it one tooth forward.

I have seen engines with stretched cam chains position the marks like that as a matter of the course. The option then is to live with it or replace the cam chain.

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post #4 of 25 Old 10-30-2006, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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I'd love to see a more detailed explaination of that tensioner thing. Apparently it's easy to mess up, and I'm not quite understanding what's going on when you just undo the two outer bolts? What's the deal with the center bolt... it locks? Clymer wasn't too helpful about that, other than to nochalantly mention "Don't do this" ops:
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post #5 of 25 Old 10-30-2006, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gadget
looks like your intake side is off by one tooth. pull the cam chain tensioner, loosen the intake cam caps and rotate the cam one tooth to get the arrow to line up with the top of the case.

tighten everything back down and re-install the tensioner by the manual and you should be ok.
Agree with Gadget!

BS this is what happened to me the last time we adjusted the valves. I thought I heard the cam chain tensioner release and it did not. When I went to start the engine we could hear the chain jumping the cam gear cogs. After Joe and Rob aligned the cams, inserted the tensioner and had to physically release it, installed the valve cover and other parts, started it with concern. Some thought they could hear a valve but I have ridden it 500 miles since then with no problems or indications of a problem.
*when you finish adjusting your valves, make sure the valve cover is still off, insert your cam chain tensioner, when it releases you should be able to see the cam chain move since tension has been applied. Now you can install the valve cover and other parts. Start it up and ride it. Let us know your opinion after you start it.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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post #6 of 25 Old 10-30-2006, 02:52 PM
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The Center bolt is holding a spring inside the housing. which pushes on the plunger which pushes on the slipper foot which pushes on the cam chain.

take the center 12mm head bolt out, watch the spring.
remove the two 10mm bolts on the cam chain tensioner body.
remove the body, hold it up and look at the end, you'll see a little pawl holding the rachet on the plunger shaft.
push it with your finger so you can slide the plunger back into the body.
There... reset.
you can put the body back in and torque the 10mm head bolts if you like.

When your finished re-clocking the cam timing. Put the spring back in the body and push. you should see/feel the
plunger "rachet" out.
tighten the 12mm head bolt. or you'll have oil on you foot.

Oh! make sure that all the slack in the cam chain is on the right side as you look at it. or bettween the crank and the intake cam.
cuz thats where the cam chain will take up the slack..right.

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post #7 of 25 Old 10-30-2006, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theotherbigjoe
The Center bolt is holding a spring inside the housing. which pushes on the plunger which pushes on the slipper foot which pushes on the cam chain.

take the center 12mm head bolt out, watch the spring.
remove the two 10mm bolts on the cam chain tensioner body.
.
Just an additional note. When you pull the tensioner body out I think it's a good idea to have the sparkplug removed. The compression can push the piston down causing the chain to skip teeth on the lower cam chain sprocket. Then your sprocket arrows will be way off. Don't ask me how I know. :???:

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post #8 of 25 Old 10-31-2006, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by West
Quote:
Originally Posted by theotherbigjoe
The Center bolt is holding a spring inside the housing. which pushes on the plunger which pushes on the slipper foot which pushes on the cam chain.

take the center 12mm head bolt out, watch the spring.
remove the two 10mm bolts on the cam chain tensioner body.
.
Just an additional note. When you pull the tensioner body out I think it's a good idea to have the sparkplug removed. The compression can push the piston down causing the chain to skip teeth on the lower cam chain sprocket. Then your sprocket arrows will be way off. Don't ask me how I know. :???:
Good note. Dang, the simple things we don't think of.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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post #9 of 25 Old 10-31-2006, 09:04 PM
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There is a great illustration on Mark.net (cam chain timing topic) that gives the exact number of chain links between the timing marks and is a very good second verification that things are as they should be. I will try to post the link.
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/
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post #10 of 25 Old 10-31-2006, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpbeddin
There is a great illustration on Mark.net (cam chain timing topic) that gives the exact number of chain links between the timing marks and is a very good second verification that things are as they should be. I will try to post the link.
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/

Thanks. Here is the direct address http://www.klr650.marknet.us/chaintiming.html

Also here is the Valve Adjustment page http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html
CORRECTION: #33 should be 55 inch pounds of torque and be careful. 69 inch pounds of torque will most likely ruin your day (or two or three).

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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