Tubes, and an apology - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Tubes, and an apology

I'm sorry to start another tube thread. There are a lot of them, but I'm still confused.

I have a 130/80-17 rear tire, which is the stock size. I understand that number.

I've read on another thread the /80 doesn't matter, because the tube doesn't care about the aspect ratio.

I'm also good with the 17 needing to match the 17 on the tube.

Questions, questions...

130 mm is 5.1 inches. Is that a useful number, or does the inch measurement come from elsewhere?

When someone says 5.00/5.10-17, is that a range from 5.00 to 5.10? Or is it some kind of ratio? Does it differ from when people say 5.00-5.10-17? Does it differ from when people say "5.00-17, 5.10-17"?

On KLR650.com, you can buy a tube that covers these sizes:

4.00/4.50-17
4.60/5.10-17

If it's a range, why didn't they just say 4.00/5.10-17, which is what the KLR650 FAQ says?

That same tube also says 110/100-17, which seems kinda small. I can buy exactly that 110/100-17 tube from bikebandit for $15...

...But I can also buy this tube from bikebandit for $11:

4.00-17, 5.10-17, 130/90-17

Am I looking at a range again? Same as 4.00/5.10? This is the right tube?

But wait! There's more! I can also get this tube for $12:

4.50-17, 4.75-17, 5.10-17

Is it bigger than the 4.00-17,5.10-17 tube? If so, why does it still only go up to 5.10? And if it's a range, why is there no 4.75 in the 4.00,5.10 tube listing?

As you can see, I'm (A) confused and (B) irritated by the fact that I've read I can jam just about any tube that has a 4.50, 5.00, or 5.10 on it with a 17 and be OK. I want to understand how it works.

Last edited by beejjorgensen; 05-22-2013 at 02:02 PM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 02:15 PM
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i think reading this just gave me cancer.

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post #3 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 02:34 PM
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From what I have experienced with tubes lately is that, I used to push the nice thicker tubes but I have seen that IF you do not get them 100% flat inside the tire they will fold over themselves and sooner or later will develop a crease which if all the stars align will create a pin hole. I installed these super thick tubes in my bike and a buddy's bike and we both suffered the same folding. There is just too much rubber to get them to sit flat without folds. I tried numerous times to get them flat without sucess. So, I now only install the normal thickness tubes for this very reason.
A tube will expand to fit it's new home, but if the tube isn't able to inflate evenly and not fold it will be a weak area in the big scheme of things. I think the make was FLY but it has been a while now since this happened and I'm almost senile!

If I had to find a tube to fit out in the boonies any tube that had the right rim size would go in, even the front would work in the rear and that is just what many do. Run with only one spare tube the front! Just to get you home so to speak. Saving weight and space is the excuse. To each their own.....

Not sure if this helps or not.....but it made you read a long story too.....lol.

Willys
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post #4 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 02:46 PM
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Beej -

Tire designations come in two forms - metric and Imperial.

The Imperial is in inches and is sort of antiquated and should be ablolished, as it is not entirely informative.

The metric designation follows this format:

Section width/aspect ratio (speed rating)(construction) - rim diameter.

A 130/80H-17 tire would be 130mm wide at the widest section of the tire and have an aspect ratio of 80%, where the height of the sidewall is 80 of the section width, or roughly 104mm. The tire would have a speed rating of H, meaning it is rated for a maximum speed of 130mph. The speed rating is not always included, and may be in a different spot. The rim size is 17 inches. (note how funny this is - even in the metric system the rim diameter is in inches.)

There are also designations for construction (bias vs radial ply) and for the number of plys. That may or may not be there (though the radial designation is usually specified by an R in the tire designation - 130/80HR-17).

With tubes it is not terribly important that we know most of this information, though some tubes are specifically designed for radial applications.

Generally what we need to know is the section width and the rim diameter. Tubes are inflatable, so they can be made to fit a range (4.60/5.10-17).

What you are seeing is the range.

How forgiving are tubes? Many consider it acceptable to carry only a front tube as a spare, as it is possible to install a 3.00-19 tube in the rear and limp home.

Match the section width of the tube to the section width of your tire, as well as the rim diameter, and you will be fine. You will have to convert from mm to inches. What you want is a tube where the range includes 5.10 or 130mm. Thus a 510-17, 5.00/5.10-17, 4.60/5.10-17 are all fine.

T

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 05-22-2013 at 02:48 PM.
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post #5 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 02:57 PM
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The sizes are ranges because rubber under pressure expands.

Both tube you list are close to the same thing. I would probably buy the $12 tube because the range is tighter.

Don't over engineer this, it's not complicated.

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post #6 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrapper View Post
i think reading this just gave me cancer.
lol!
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post #7 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klr4evr View Post
Don't over engineer this, it's not complicated.
I think just knowing that 130/80 is not a range and 4.50/5.10 is a range helps considerably.

I will now purchase a replacement spare for the one I donated to my friend on Sunday (nail through a heavy-duty tube).

Thanks, folks!
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post #8 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
What you are seeing is the range.

Match the section width of the tube to the section width of your tire, as well as the rim diameter, and you will be fine. You will have to convert from mm to inches. What you want is a tube where the range includes 5.10 or 130mm. Thus a 510-17, 5.00/5.10-17, 4.60/5.10-17 are all fine.
Excellent.
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post #9 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
From what I have experienced with tubes lately is that, I used to push the nice thicker tubes but I have seen that IF you do not get them 100% flat inside the tire they will fold over themselves and sooner or later will develop a crease which if all the stars align will create a pin hole.
Interesting. One thing dad taught me with bicycle tubes was to put them in, inflate them, then deflate them, and inflate them again. The idea was to give them a chance to reseat if they needed to.

I can only imagine talc would help even more with this technique, but who knows if it even works at all.
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post #10 of 17 Old 05-22-2013, 03:29 PM
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i have been running thick tubes for over a year now with no problems. i am always very careful when inserting them so that they dont twist like you are talking about.

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