89 cylinder head swap - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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89 cylinder head swap

Hello all !

I am interested in installing a big bore kit on my klr. the question is...can i put a 96 cylinder on my 89 case and head? I can purchase an 99 motor for $550 locally and use it if I had to but getting an 96 head would be cheaper.
Thanks for any insight you can provide..

the "Mouse'
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post #2 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 02:37 PM
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mousepolice -

Yes, the 96 cylinder will fit on the 89 case and head. I gotta say, though, if you can fetch up a '99 motor for $550 and it's whole and running, I'd do it. A lot of changes for the better occurred in 1996. I'd almost guarantee you can unload a good head for nearly that much money.

Welcome to the forum! What big bore are you going with?

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-08-2013 at 02:42 PM.
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post #3 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Good question

I am looking at the 685 with hot cams, larger valves, and full exhaust...
was looking at the 705 but I don't know enough about the longevity of the big bore kits. any suggestions?

Scott
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post #4 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 05:52 PM
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The 685 is pretty much the point of diminishing returns for the big bore kits. that's just my opinion. the 705 is said to be a bit more power and a bit smoother, but you have to factor in the cost of removing and replacing the liner, then boring and honing it.

For most people the 685 seems to make the most financial sense because it can be done on the stock cylinder. It's probably been done to far more engines than the 705 and has a very good track record.

Porting the head and installing the big valves is spendy but very productive. As to the hot cams, I have no experience there. I'm not sure I'd go to the expense. willys has experience with the aftermarket cam scene.

T

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post #5 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 06:36 PM
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Tom is correct on the sizes of the big bores....I regret every going past the 685 cc size! It was the best kit by far! It lasted 5 years without a seconds trouble. The only reason I started the stupid climb up the cc size was to fix dirt scoring my 685 kit. I'm now at 705 and am seriously thinking of selling it and going back down.
I have Megacycle cams, the .410 lift selection. IMHO, unless you have a better carb which I do now, a flatslide pumper they are not worth the money either!

But if you do have the 685, stage II headwork done, cams and the flatslide carb....oh and any slip on exhuast using the 08 header or aftermarket header....you will own a very strong KLR that will scream past redline at a whim! I run 16/42 gearing and can easily lift the front wheel with slow roll-on throttle any time in first, not quite as easy in second but it still goes up and if you can clutch shift or wheelie I'm sure it would go up in third just as easy. I don't....too scared to come off in my brittle old age!
I have let a few close buddies ride it and the smile on their faces is all I need to know they aprove of what 's been done....lol. Plus riding their slightly modded(bigbored 685) bikes trying to keep up with them is useless!

Some will say BS but until you have felt the difference.....you just won't know for sure! It costs much money to get your bike to this level and is it really worth it? Ask me when I stop to wait for you....lol.

OH, and buy that 99! You will need to change the stator in it to make it compatible with your charging system but it's simple. You can either just swap the rotor and stator cover with stator in it as a whole or swap out just the stator and install it into the newer case and also the rotor. That rotor from your older engine is 10% lighter and will spin up much faster than the heavier rotor, yes I have done that also. But I took it back out as I was eating rear tires!!!
There are many ways to get a KLR to move out and I have done almost all of them over the years. All of these so call useless smaller mods which if dyno'd singularly wouldn't show any power gains but when you add a bunch of them together, you will notice them for sure! Again there will be some who will say BS again....but again until they do the work and see for themselves.....they will never know.
Buy that motor and do it up and ride your old one while doing it.

Willys
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post #6 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 08:00 PM
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willys, are you sure sure about the stator 99 vs 89? I thought that was a Gen 2 vs Gen 1 thing.

T

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“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-08-2013 at 08:26 PM.
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post #7 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 09:05 PM
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They changed the output of the stator in 96 from what I understand, I have an 87 rotor which delivers less watts and it's the rotor stator that is different. I'm only guessing that the 89 will be the same seeing as they did a change to other stuff in 96. I can run the 87 rotor in the 2004 stator but I get much less wattage from it, but that 10% difference in it's weight is surprising to what it does for the torque on the bike. It looses torque but gains speed. It allows the engine to spin up in RPMs much faster. You have to use the gears similar to a street bike but boy does she go!

Willys
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post #8 of 40 Old 06-08-2013, 10:23 PM
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OK, got it!

Thanks,

T

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“Some days I feel like playing it smooth. Some days I feel like playing it like a waffle iron.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #9 of 40 Old 06-09-2013, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice. I have used the hot cams on my yz426 and my wr400 they work great. I had the cylinders nikaseal plated when I did the rebuild..im thinking 685 with nikaseal plating,hot cams ..ill port the heads then send them off to have the larger valves installed and neal seals installed. the engine doesn't have a carb with it.. suggestions? Im going to be using this bike around town and weekend rides into the Colorado mountains.
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post #10 of 40 Old 06-09-2013, 12:27 AM
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EDIT: Posted before reading the discussion in posts above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
You will need to change the stator in it to make it compatible with your charging system but it's simple.
I thought all Generation 1 stators were compatible.

According to BikeBandit, 1989 and 1996 stators have the same part number: 786743

Aftermarket stators are sold as compatible over the entire Generation 1 range. The OEM rectifier/regulator can be used with aftermarket stators.

What is the electrical difference between Generation 1 OEM stators year to year, and why must they be matched, model for model?

Last edited by Damocles; 06-09-2013 at 04:43 AM.
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