Installing heated grips - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 17 Old 12-14-2006, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Installing heated grips

I have a question about installing heated grips? Is it normal for the right to be warmer than the left? Other than the fact the left loses some heat into the bars! What is the diffrence in the two heating elements/pads, or why is there a throttle and a non throttle heater?

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post #2 of 17 Old 12-14-2006, 05:43 PM
 
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If you wrap the left side with tape or the like you will lose less heat into the bar. Or you could install an aluminum throttle tube to even things out.
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post #3 of 17 Old 12-18-2006, 09:17 AM
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Yeah, it is normal. But easily solved.

If you have the stock steel bars the heat dissipation is minimal. If you have aluminum bars, the heat dissipation is terrible!

The reason the Dual Star kit I sold you has a throttle and clutch side is that most other brands of those style kits have two of the same elements, and you wire a resistor in line to keep the throttle side and clutch side heat output equal. The Dual Star kit does not require a resistor as the elements have been designed to accomodate the fact that the thinner grip on the throttle side means more heat will seep through than the thicker grip on the clutch side. Thus the clutch side element actually gets a bit hotter than the throtlle side element.

Anyway, the way to solve the heat dissipation issue is to wrap several twists of electric tape very tightly around the clutch side handlebar and put the element on top of that, or otherwise insulate the bar. I use heat shrink tubing, the 1.00" dimater stuff shrinks nicely around a 7/8" bar. It is not necessary to insulate the throttle side since the plastic throttle tube serves as an insulator already. Once the left side of the bar is insulated you will have equal heat output on both sides.
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post #4 of 17 Old 12-18-2006, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Yeah, it is normal. But easily solved.

If you have the stock steel bars the heat dissipation is minimal. If you have aluminum bars, the heat dissipation is terrible!

The reason the Dual Star kit I sold you has a throttle and clutch side is that most other brands of those style kits have two of the same elements, and you wire a resistor in line to keep the throttle side and clutch side heat output equal. The Dual Star kit does not require a resistor as the elements have been designed to accomodate the fact that the thinner grip on the throttle side means more heat will seep through than the thicker grip on the clutch side. Thus the clutch side element actually gets a bit hotter than the throtlle side element.

Anyway, the way to solve the heat dissipation issue is to wrap several twists of electric tape very tightly around the clutch side handlebar and put the element on top of that, or otherwise insulate the bar. I use heat shrink tubing, the 1.00" dimater stuff shrinks nicely around a 7/8" bar. It is not necessary to insulate the throttle side since the plastic throttle tube serves as an insulator already. Once the left side of the bar is insulated you will have equal heat output on both sides.


Now that is the answer I was looking for. I think I must have gotten them switched, because the right side was so hot I could barly hold it, while the left side didn't get hot at all.
I did wrap my alluminum bars with the electrical tape, then put a layer of alluminum tape over that to reflect the heat out to the grips.
I switched them from right to left and they are working pretty good now.
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post #5 of 17 Old 12-27-2006, 10:33 PM
 
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How in the world do you get the stock grips off? There has to be some kind of solvent to release the death grip that is holding them on there. I don't have compressed air available. I am ready to torch them off. :mrgreen:
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post #6 of 17 Old 12-28-2006, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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The left one has to be cut off most of the time. :cry: Depends on what kind of day the guy putting the glue on was having. :?:

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post #7 of 17 Old 12-28-2006, 08:24 AM
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How are they for wiring into the bike? I've never tackled anything electrical on the bike so I really don't have a clue what it what. Any instructions come with it?

Casey

2005 KLR 650
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post #8 of 17 Old 12-28-2006, 10:01 PM
 
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Yeah, it (dual star kit) comes with instructions. It doesn't mention using a relay though. It sounded like a good idea to use a relay in order to keep from running the battery down. If you can solder then installation shouln't be a problem. I don't trust the "quicky no solder" stuff that they give you in these kits. A really good site with an illustrated installation is here: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/ge...-grips-alt.php
The stock grips on the KLR are a nightmare to remove. I'd pay good money to see someone remove them with compressed air. I spent all day (no joke) whittling the rubber off of my handlebars. I tried to loosen the stuff with rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, carburetor cleaner...you name it I tried it with no success. I have to work tommorow, so I won't be able to wrap this job up till Saturday. :sad:
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post #9 of 17 Old 12-29-2006, 10:17 AM
 
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Here is a good diagram that I stole from somewhere on how to add a relay. I need to take pictures of my actual relay. I put two of them (grips and acc. outlet) down by the coolant resevior. The actually wiring of the grips is very straight forward.

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post #10 of 17 Old 12-31-2006, 08:32 PM
 
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I wired my grips just like Dual-Star instructions said to and I'm just not getting much heat out of these things. How long do they normally take to warm up? Most people say they can only keep theirs on high for a short while. I wonder if they wired them differently.
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