Clutch/Sidestand switch bypass? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 8 Old 01-03-2007, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
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Clutch/Sidestand switch bypass?

Does anyone have the information on how to do this? When I kill my bike out in the woods I have to make sure I'm in neutral etc etc to restart. It's getting to be a real pain. Or maybe I should learn how to ride better :lol: But until that day, can anyone help me out with this mod? Thanks
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-03-2007, 06:15 PM
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Welcome to the forum.Try this for starters.You landed in great place.Hope to hear more from ya

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post #3 of 8 Old 01-03-2007, 06:59 PM
4th Gear
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Safety Switch By-pass Switch

Parts list:

1) DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) bat handle toggle switch

2) Rubber switch handle rubber boot

3) Approximately 10 feet 18 gauge wire

4) 4 crimp connectors, eye type to fit screws on switch

5) 1 crimp connector, eye type to fit 6 mm bolt

6) Rubber tool handle dip or silicone RTV


1) Crimp and solder connectors to three 8-inch wires and one long wire to reach CDI module behind radiator overflow tank.
Crimp the 6 mm eye connector to one 8-inch wire.

2) Attach the long wire and 8 inch wire with 6 mm eye to one side of the DPST switch (one switched set of terminals)
and the other two 8 inch wires to the other side.

3) Dip the switch with wires attached into the rubber compound or alternatively coat with RTV, the body of the switch
and wires where attached to switch. The complete switch body should be coated but do not coat more than the first few
threads of the switch mounting tube.

4) Set switch aside to dry.

5) Remove plastic cover over kickstand switch.

6) Remove side covers, seat, front radiator and rad tank covers.

7) Disconnect fuel hose and vacuum hose to fuel tap.

8) Remove fuel tank and check to make sure that the fuel tank mounting rubbers (hockey pucks) are still in place.
Remove the plastic shield in front of radiator overflow tank.

9) Locate the CDI box and follow the wire harness to the middle plug in the wire plug mounting plate and unplug the
bottom plug that is the bike end of the wiring harness.

10) Use a pick or terminal disconnect tool to push the lock finger back to allow the red-black wire to be withdrawn from
the plug body.

11) Push the starting relay upward to unhook from the mounting blade and pull the relay and wires out in front of the
side stand switch. Unplug the wire plug from the starting relay (4 wire plug below starter solenoid) and use a pick or
terminal disconnect tool to push the retainer finger back and remove the black and yellow/red wires on the same side
out of the plug body.

12) Solder the two 8-inch wires on the same side of the switch to the black and yellow/red wires from the starter relay
plug. I soldered them carefully to the top crimp of the wire connector so that the connector will fit back into the
plastic plug body. This will allow the starting relay to operate normally unless the switch is closed. When the switch
is closed the relay will operate regardless of the clutch or side stand switches.

13) Solder the long wire to the top crimp of the CDI connector in the same manner as above and return the connector
to the plug body.

14) Remove the 6 mm bolt (10 mm head) from the bracket near the starter relay?s mounting position, place the 6 mm eye
connector onto the bolt and reinstall the bolt.

15) Last step is to mark and bore a hole in the bottom front of the plastic side stand switch cover which was removed
in step #5, locating the hole so that the switch will clear the bottom of the starter relay and to the (bike?s) right
of the side stand switch. There is ample room.

16) Test the switch by placing the bike in gear, side stand down, choke on, ignition switch on, etc. Then, tip the KLR
toward you so that the rear wheel is off the ground and hit the starter. If it fires up, note the switch orientation.
If not, flip the switch and it will go now.

17) Reinstall the covers, tank, seat and such using Loctite and or RTV as desired.

This set-up will allow a near idiot (me) to use the safeties as designed but to bypass them at a moment?s notice if
one fails. The location of the switch and means of connecting will allow it all to be removed with nearly no residual
damage if desired. The location will also allow the switch to be operated while holding the front and rear brakes as
if stalled on a hill because the switch will be easily reached with the left hand.

There are likely more elegant solutions to the safety switch issue but this may be useful to someone.


I like having the safties there, but also like being able to by-pass them if needed.

Today is the first day of the rest of your life.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-03-2007, 09:36 PM
2nd Gear
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Location: Mt. Gilead, OH
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Holy crap daddyjoe, that is a helluva technique! :shock:


Assuming you DON'T want to reactivate the safeties with a toggle switch, two simple "jumper wires" will solve your problems.

Rip the entire sidestand switch assembly and cover off, throw the braided cable etc away, and "jump" the two wires behind the black plastic cover on your L frame tube.

Follow the clutch safety switch wiring from the clutch along the bar to behind the instrument cluster, under the black plastic cover, and jumper two of the three wires. I can't recall which colors offhand but you can figure it out by looking at the underside of the clutch housing where the switch is and seeing which two wires are connected when the clutch is pulled in. Someone else may chime in with the colors here or, failing that, I will go look in the morning and post up tomorrow night.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-03-2007, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Right on guys, I'll give it a try. Thanks for the information.
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-03-2007, 10:22 PM
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And when you remove that junk behind there, you can add one of these:
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-04-2007, 08:49 PM
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Holy crap daddyjoe, that is a helluva technique! Shocked

A guy named Norm posted that a year or so on another site, I have passed it on to many since then. It is a good way to have a switch to by-pass the safties when needed.
Last week I had my side stand safty act up and I was able to flip a switch and get it home. I good cleaning and all works as it should now. I never use the kill switch on the bike, but I do put the side stand down and let the clutch out to kill the motor if I'm on a hill.

Today is the first day of the rest of your life.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-16-2007, 07:05 PM
1st Gear
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Location: Gastonia NC
Posts: 39
I've been experencing some side stand stwich troubles latley that cause the bike to stall even with the stand up when I let out on the clutch. I'm too much of a numbskull to bypass the stwiches compleatly since I'd fear taking off with the stand down. I my look into the bypass method mentioned if my trouble presist. Good info....Al
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