Howdy, I was adjusting the chain on my 2009 KLR for the first time and noticed that the spacings on the two adjuster blocks (is that what they are called?) were slightly different. I assume spacings between these need to be similar, but how close do the need to be? Eyeball approximate or do I pull out a micrometer??
And what is the best way to make sure the axel is pushed up tight against these things while tightening the axel nut?
I've gotten a headache reading all the opinions on everything to do with KLR chain adjustments!!
And you're asking for more chain adjustment opinions? Brave man!
If you're tightening the chain, the adjusters will, of course, push back against the axle so axle/adjusters contact will always be maintained.
Can't say I've ever loosened a motorcycle chain, but guess you would just have to push the wheel forward with your hand to keep it in contact with the adjusters, then hold it there with one hand and snug down the axle nut with the other before final torquing.
In my opinion, eyeball approximate is close enough. You can always use the highly precise and refined method as demanded in the Clymer manual:
"When free play is correct, check that the wheel is aligned. (A. Fig. 44) If the chain curves in (B. Fig. 44) or out (C. Fig. 44), readjust the chain so the wheel is aligned with the rest of the motorcycle."
You can usually just kind of lay or sit down behind the back wheel and eyeball if the chain is running true to the sprocket or not and if everything looks generally straight. That's good enough for me. If you line up the adjusters on each side with the same swingarm reference marks, it should all be plenty straight but it never hurts to "shoot an azimuth" down the chain.
Also remember when you put the final torque on the axle nut, it will tend to make your chain even tighter, so it's a good idea to go back and check it after you torque the axle to make sure the chain is not too tight.