2009 Chain adjuster Blocks - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 4 Old 07-08-2013, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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2009 Chain adjuster Blocks

Howdy, I was adjusting the chain on my 2009 KLR for the first time and noticed that the spacings on the two adjuster blocks (is that what they are called?) were slightly different. I assume spacings between these need to be similar, but how close do the need to be? Eyeball approximate or do I pull out a micrometer??

And what is the best way to make sure the axel is pushed up tight against these things while tightening the axel nut?

I've gotten a headache reading all the opinions on everything to do with KLR chain adjustments!!
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post #2 of 4 Old 07-08-2013, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YukonPete View Post
Howdy, I was adjusting the chain on my 2009 KLR for the first time and noticed that the spacings on the two adjuster blocks (is that what they are called?) were slightly different. I assume spacings between these need to be similar, but how close do the need to be? Eyeball approximate or do I pull out a micrometer??

And what is the best way to make sure the axel is pushed up tight against these things while tightening the axel nut?

I've gotten a headache reading all the opinions on everything to do with KLR chain adjustments!!
And you're asking for more chain adjustment opinions? Brave man!

If you're tightening the chain, the adjusters will, of course, push back against the axle so axle/adjusters contact will always be maintained.

Can't say I've ever loosened a motorcycle chain, but guess you would just have to push the wheel forward with your hand to keep it in contact with the adjusters, then hold it there with one hand and snug down the axle nut with the other before final torquing.

In my opinion, eyeball approximate is close enough. You can always use the highly precise and refined method as demanded in the Clymer manual:

"When free play is correct, check that the wheel is aligned. (A. Fig. 44) If the chain curves in (B. Fig. 44) or out (C. Fig. 44), readjust the chain so the wheel is aligned with the rest of the motorcycle."




You can usually just kind of lay or sit down behind the back wheel and eyeball if the chain is running true to the sprocket or not and if everything looks generally straight. That's good enough for me. If you line up the adjusters on each side with the same swingarm reference marks, it should all be plenty straight but it never hurts to "shoot an azimuth" down the chain.

Also remember when you put the final torque on the axle nut, it will tend to make your chain even tighter, so it's a good idea to go back and check it after you torque the axle to make sure the chain is not too tight.




Last edited by planalp; 07-08-2013 at 07:05 PM.
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post #3 of 4 Old 07-09-2013, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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Planalp, thanks, that is great information! Makes sense to check wheel alignment after everything is done, especially since it just a moment.
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post #4 of 4 Old 07-09-2013, 08:03 AM
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Personally I'm more concerned with the chain running true on the sprockets than I am with the rear wheel being "straight" or in-line with the front wheel.

If I'm travelling down a flat road and take my hands off the bars for a little bit and keep going in a straight line for awhile I figure all is well with the alignment/interaction of the front/rear tires.



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