Bolts And Hoses - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Bolts And Hoses



I just purchased this 2007 KLR 650 and I was inspecting the bottom side here.
I'm not 100% sure but could anyone tell me if that is the oil filter drain reservoir just hanging at the bottom of the bike. I also found the carb hose just hanging right near the spring not really sure of the proper route for it yet?
I'm not sure if this should be hooked up.. I'm guessing it should be.
Also I'm pretty sure that a nut should be on the end of the bold holding the swing arm.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 07-17-2013 at 01:33 PM. Reason: so everyone can see the picture...
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:33 PM
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kevinm219-

The hoses are normal. One is the vent tube for the carburetor (and a good mod is to put a T fitting in it and run an additional hose higher up. It's called the 'T-Mod') and the second is the drain for the air box. Oil can accumulate in the air box and the drain exists so that it has a place to go. That drain should be capped and the draining should be done at oil change intervals.

Yes, there should be a nut on that bolt. Right away, too, as that bolt, if it backs out, is going to hit the chain and cause all sorts of havoc. Right before the suspension collapses! It's a pretty standard flange bolt. You should be able to find a replacement at a good hardware store. If you can't find a flange bolt then a normal bolt and washer will do.

That shock looks a bit oily. Does it work OK?

Welcome to the forum - pull up a chair and look around a bit.

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 07-17-2013 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
the second is the drain for the air box. Oil can accumulate in the air box and the drain exists so that it has a place to go. That drain should be capped and the draining should be done at oil change intervals.
From the pic, it looks like the hose below the reservoir is missing, and with it, the cap. $12-worth of stuff at Bike Bandit, but somewhere else might be cheaper, esp with shipping. Or just make your own.

(Bike Bandit also sells the flanged nut for the links for $8. Ouch.)
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Tom , I shall after I finish working at midnight! The shock does seem to do the trick to be honest I've only ridden it from the sellers house to mine (about thirty minutes). Still needs to be insured and whatnot. I want to do the doo asap and I actually found a clear hose coming from the carb and its not in the picture but its around the same place. The hose without the reservoir looks like it goes up and to the side by the battery. Not a hundred percent sure and thanks for the speedy reply. Definitely won't be moving her till I get a nut on that bolt!
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:04 PM
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You're right and I'm wrong! That hose does go to the battery and is an overflow hose. Again, normal.

The one with the clear bulb on it usually has a short section of hose coming off the bulb and has a plastic plug in the end.

Whereabouts are you located?


T

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“Some days I feel like playing it smooth. Some days I feel like playing it like a waffle iron.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Nova Scotia, Canada. Do you guys happen to know the size of the nut that is missing from that bolt? I've been looking in the manuals and I don't want to take off the other one xD.
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinm219 View Post
Nova Scotia, Canada. Do you guys happen to know the size of the nut that is missing from that bolt? I've been looking in the manuals and I don't want to take off the other one xD.
Someone should definitely correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can get the rear wheel off the ground and then remove that bolt without much hassle. I think those bolts are the first thing to come out when you do the swing arm, and the last thing to go in. Then you can take the bolt to the store and be sure you're getting a match.

Or... Tom probably just knows the size.

When reinstalling, Cylmer says to make sure the bolt head recessess properly in the left lever arm before you torque it down (98 Nm, looks like).
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:56 AM
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Probably just perspective, but that chain looks tiny!



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Old 07-18-2013, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Does the cylmer say the bolt size or nut size. I was at three different hardware stores and couldn't find the flanged ones and was going to go with one with the nylon lock but I'm unsure if that's coarse or fine thread. It looks finer than the other bolt that is still in tact. Any info on the size, hopefully imperial because in Canada apparently we can't get metric nuts.

I have a feeling I will be ordering one from online so any links in Canada would be gratefully appreciated.

Thanks.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:54 PM
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It's a 14mm. 14X1, I think.

You can't get metric nuts in Canada? You should be able to get them at whatever your equivalent of Ace Hardware, Orchard Supply, Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, etc.

14mm is about halfway between 1/2" and 9/16", but I'm sure neither will work in that application.

Are you on the Fundy side or the Ireland side?

T

Tom [email protected]

“Some days I feel like playing it smooth. Some days I feel like playing it like a waffle iron.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
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