Subframe upgrade done! - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 6 Old 02-18-2007, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Subframe upgrade done!

For those who may be interested here is a report on my subframe upgrade. I decided to do this after what happened to my son while he was riding my '04. You can see that here:

It took me about 1 hour to do the drilling and bolting. Add another hour for prep & cleanup then I still have to put the tank, seat & plastics on. That will come tomorrow after a trip to the welder. Explanation at the end.

Ready to go:

I already had a hole drilled all the way through so I used Eaglmike's smaller drill bit to widen it. Then the larger bit to bring it up to the proper size.

Done drilling:

I cleaned shavings out the holes and and from around the engine with a parts magnet. It was a good fit:

Even following (for the most part) Eaglemike's directions I was a little off on getting the hole perfectly straight. A guide of some sort would have been nice here. I was tempted to use the spacer in the kit but did not want to bugger it up so just cleaned out the hole a little more & it worked well.

Done with the new bolt:

The directions call for loosening the bandclamp at the back of the carb (this I did & when I went to put it back on I found that it went on by itself. Sweet.). Something else to look for is the seal at the header pipe/muffler intersection. That will slide some & may have to be adjusted as it will not slip back in all the way and likely be blown forward on the head pipe later after a ride or two. I also disconnected my battery ground cable. This broke at the starter motor when the subframe seperated. You cannot get to it on the starter motor mounting bolt without moving the header pipe out of the way (more work).

When I was done I noticed something else. The vent that goes from the back of the engine to the airbox was off the tube coming out of the engine. I don't know how long it was like that & It does not look like any shavings got in there as the area around it was clean so I just put the tube back on. I will be doing an oil change or 2 real soon & looking close at my magnetic plug.

The welder:
See the gas tank mount just behind the subframe mount on the right side? Broken weld & the other will go soon too.

On the whole a good experience & a little peace of mind.
If you have not yet done it then DO IT NOW!!! I think this is the mos important SAFETY upgrade that you can do in addition to the footpeg bolts. Cost is not a factor as it is real cheap.

If I think of anything else then I will edit this or add later in the thread.
Now, on to installing my SS brake lines.

Thanks a bunch Eaglemike. You are one of the good ones.


Old Fahrt
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-18-2007, 04:00 PM
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Glad to see you completed the drill thorough sub-frame upgrade using the Eagle kit. I agree with your concern for this being a necessary upgrade. Whether you are riding hard off-road ot hauling heavy loads at high speeds the sub-frame bolts take a beating. All it takes is one of them to come loose and the others will follow.

For all that do the drill through upgrade in the future; Use a ratchet strap to hold the subframe from dropping while you are drilling.


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2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-18-2007, 05:47 PM
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Good job Josbek on the report and the up-grade. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Today is the first day of the rest of your life.
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-24-2007, 12:38 PM
Join Date: Feb 2007
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I'm curious about this subframe upgrade - going to be going on the D37 DV350 ride in a couple weeks, taking my new 07 KLR. Is this something I should do before whaling on it like that (350 miles of fire roads, and some rougher stuff, I think)? Is replacing the stock bolts with some higher grade ones adequate?
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-24-2007, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Tom and welcome to the kommunity.
After my experience I think I would advise averyone to upgrade the sub-frame with the Eaglemike 3 bolt drill through upgrade kit. The cost is $24 with the drill bits or $19 for just the bolts from Arrowhead motorsports. Time is only a couple of hours & you can check others stuff while you are in there. Specifically the welds on the crossmember that the tank bolts to. The right side of mine was broke & the left was cracking as well as a crack toward the middle. Here it is with the welding done & before the paint:

If you do it then be aware that there is RED loctite in there so you may need some heat to get the upper bolts out.
Good luck to you.

Old Fahrt
Too young for medicare
Too old for women to care
I aint paranoid. The whole world IS out to get me.
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-28-2007, 10:19 PM
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Subframe is a good thing to do.
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