KLR 600 Cylinder head - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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KLR 600 Cylinder head

My KLR 600 cylinder head is dead, the cam seats are torn to bits.

Only other head within my price range is the one pictured, It too has wear to the exhaust seat and cap.... Though no where near as bad as mine...

Thoughts on its condition and should I buy or not?
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:52 AM
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If I were in your situation, I'd buy the head.

The bike is probably worth £350 and, at £50, the head is worth a gamble. Given the condition of the rest of the bike it's probably about the most you should fork out to attempt repairs.

The bottom of the journal looks a bit scored, but I've seen worse that worked. Strangely, the upper journal looks good. I wonder if the KACR went wonky and exploded.

The stud looks a bit canted; that could be a photographic anomaly. Do you know any more about this head?

Clean it up and see if the clearance is no more than 150% of the upper spec. If it is, smooth it out a bit, make sure the head is good and clean with no oil passage blockage, and run it.

If it's a no-go and you just pissed away £50, break the bike and you'll probably get your money back.

If you do decide to break the bike, please drop me a PM.

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-08-2013 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Rest of the bike looks new actually, its been completely stripped down to metal and sprayed.

Do you not mean that the top journal is scored but the bottom isn't? The seat for the cam looks great but the cap looks past its best.
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Old 08-08-2013, 11:59 AM
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Doh! I took a quick look at the picture and did not realize that it was the cap sitting in the head and that the canted stud was the bolt sticking through the cap.

(Scrambling backwards and stuttering) "Why, yes, that's precisely what I meant!".

Hey, it's early here and I'm only into my second cuppa joe.

T

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Old 08-08-2013, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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looking at the scoring on the cap I am sceptical about the ability it will have to hold an oil film
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:17 PM
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You'll only know by using PlastiGage and checking the clearance.

This would also be a case where you might be interested in stepping up the amount of oil flowing to the head.

You may have to read this several times to take it all in, but PDWestman has been working on improving oil flow to the head and offers some tips.

May I ask what sort of condition your corresponding cap is in?

T

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“Some days I feel like playing it smooth. Some days I feel like playing it like a waffle iron.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

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Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-08-2013 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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my cap is a write off... before removing the cap the cam wobbled a good mm in all directions... after removing the cap i realized it had been eaten away pretty badly... its 100 fold worse than this head I'm looking at. the cam remarkably has hardly any sign of wear.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:44 PM
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Cams are hard and pretty difficult to score without getting some hard bits into the oil.

There are 'shade-tree mechanic' ways of dealing with this sort of issue.

First off, a bit of oil does wonders if it's always there, so keeping good flow will help. There are plenty of engines that have run just fine for tens of thousands of miles with excessive clearances, so living with a bit of out-of-spec clearance isn't the end of the world. There was an underlying cause for that scuffing and fixing that cause might very well preclude any further degradation of the cap.

The wear is usually more concentrated at the top of the cap. Getting a piece of plate glass and lapping a couple of thousandths of an inch off to tighten the clearance could work out very well, too.

These aren't recommended practices, of course, but when funds are limited or the project has a low value (and restoration is not a goal) they can work.

T

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“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-08-2013 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Can you tell me how the oil is transferred from the inlet cams to the exhaust cams?
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:52 PM
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It's different on the 600 vs the 650.

On the 650, the oil comes from the main galley into a tube that runs up to the head. From there it enters the left intake journal and flows out of the top of the journal through a tube, entering the top of the exhaust cam cap.

The right side journals are lubricated through the cams themselves.

The 600 is the same, except that there is a boss with a banjo fitting, leading to a tube that goes over to the exhaust side. The left intake journal is fed directly from the oil gallery, the right side through the cam.

That boss is still there on the 650 heads, it's just not drilled. It's the boss you saw on your head. You have a 650 head and the exhaust cams were receiving no oil. Had the matching 650 journals been fitted, then there would have been the tube between the two journals and the exhaust cams would have had oil.

It would have been possible, when the 650 head was installed, to have drilled and tapped that boss to accept the banjo and to have fitted the banjo/tube assembly from the old head. I'm not 100% sure on that, as I don't know if the factory still drills the connecting passageway to where the boss is. If not, that wouldn't have been a terribly difficult thing to do.

T

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“Some days I feel like playing it smooth. Some days I feel like playing it like a waffle iron.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-08-2013 at 02:13 PM. Reason: added a bit about intake feed.
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