Doubt you've got a kill switch problem. In RUN position, the kill switch connects + 12 VDC from the BROWN wire to the starter button; a connection to the exciter coil is BLANK, In STOP position, the kill switch lifts + 12 VDC from the starter button, and GROUNDS the exciter coil wire. (When the ignition switch is OFF, the exciter coil wire is also grounded; the kill mechanism is the same as with the kill switch.)
CAVEAT: Generation 1 ONLY.
There's a matrix atop the wiring diagram, showing switch contacts with different ignition switch positions.
Ignition ON, you should have WHITE (constant + 12 VDC) contacting BROWN (switched + 12 VDC).
You should have CONTINUITY between BROWN and the KILL SWITCH. In RUN position, the kill switch connects + 12 VDC from the BROWN wire to the starter button.
Use the OHMS function of your multimeter to insure an electrical CONNECTION exists between the BROWN wire and your KILL SWITCH. See if the brown wire terminal makes a connection the starter button when the kill switch is in RUN position. When the ignition switch is turned ON, + 12 VDC should appear on the BROWN wire, and consequently to the BROWN wire's connection to your kill switch, and to the starter button when in RUN position.
(From my flawed memory; you might check the wiring diagram to verify my postulation!)
Again from memory, the STARTER LOCKOUT SWITCH, or CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH, merely supplies a GROUND to the starter circuit relay coil, if the clutch lever is squeezed. If the clutch lever is not squeezed, the starter circuit relay coil must pick up its ground from the NEUTRAL SWITCH.
The logic: The starter will not engage if the bike is in gear and the clutch lever un-squeezed. The starter will engage if the bike is in neutral, regardless of the clutch lever configuration.
Last edited by Damocles; 08-18-2013 at 06:50 PM.