Starter lockout sw. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Starter lockout sw.

No switched 12v. getting to starter button. How to get kill sw. off handlebar? One torx square bolt in center - before I result to impact, Is this what has to come out? Tried with screwdriver handle torx, won't budge....Replaced speedo & top case. bike will run with crowbar start on start relay but no go with button.

Jim(almost $250 for speedo & case parts! But they're IN now.)

Looked all thru Clymer that Damocles sent - no help removing kill sw....
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 06:31 PM
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CORRECTED:

Doubt you've got a kill switch problem. In RUN position, the kill switch connects + 12 VDC from the BROWN wire to the starter button; a connection to the exciter coil is BLANK, In STOP position, the kill switch lifts + 12 VDC from the starter button, and GROUNDS the exciter coil wire. (When the ignition switch is OFF, the exciter coil wire is also grounded; the kill mechanism is the same as with the kill switch.)

CAVEAT: Generation 1 ONLY.

There's a matrix atop the wiring diagram, showing switch contacts with different ignition switch positions.

Ignition ON, you should have WHITE (constant + 12 VDC) contacting BROWN (switched + 12 VDC).

You should have CONTINUITY between BROWN and the KILL SWITCH. In RUN position, the kill switch connects + 12 VDC from the BROWN wire to the starter button.

Use the OHMS function of your multimeter to insure an electrical CONNECTION exists between the BROWN wire and your KILL SWITCH. See if the brown wire terminal makes a connection the starter button when the kill switch is in RUN position. When the ignition switch is turned ON, + 12 VDC should appear on the BROWN wire, and consequently to the BROWN wire's connection to your kill switch, and to the starter button when in RUN position.


(From my flawed memory; you might check the wiring diagram to verify my postulation!)

-----------------------

Again from memory, the STARTER LOCKOUT SWITCH, or CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH, merely supplies a GROUND to the starter circuit relay coil, if the clutch lever is squeezed. If the clutch lever is not squeezed, the starter circuit relay coil must pick up its ground from the NEUTRAL SWITCH.

The logic: The starter will not engage if the bike is in gear and the clutch lever un-squeezed. The starter will engage if the bike is in neutral, regardless of the clutch lever configuration.

Last edited by Damocles; 08-18-2013 at 06:50 PM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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The cover is off of the back side of the start button. The only place there is a brown wire going to it is on the colored wiring diagram. There is a Yel/R wire and an Orange wire. The OR wire appears to be coming from the kill sw(which is why I am trying to get that apart). I will try the Ohm meter check tomorrow....

The cable from the kill sw goes to a connector behind the instrument cluster(far left hand one looking from the front of the bike. I tried, with no sucess so far, to separate the two halves of the connector(I do know about the latch but push with just thumb & it's nail will not release it - or the pins are really tight! Was able to meter the lug on the connector(from the kill sw[brown wire] and it has switched 12v. Not yet sure THAT is the brown from the kill sw. as I cannot get to it at the kill sw with the switch mounted! IF I ever get this mess figured out, I'll know more about this wiring....even the colored diagram is starting to make sense- - scarry! Back & legs won't let me stand out there long enough to follow my thoughts through....Patience, Damocles - I'll get there!

I did notice that my front & rear tires were mounted as you guys were stating - the v's pointing opposite directions. Shop mounted!

Jim

Last edited by Jim Sizemore; 08-18-2013 at 07:12 PM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 08:04 PM
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JS, a very detailed and ISOLATED wiring diagram of the STARTER SYSTEM can be found in the ELECTRICAL SYSTEM chapter of the Clymer manual whose URL I posted (Chapter 9).

It's figure 39 in my edition, page 201. I'd expect the location similar on the on-line edition of the manual.

You've mentioned the separation in distance between your laptop and your bike; perhaps you can print out the applicable page, or perhaps carry your laptop to your garage for reference.

You have expressed interest in the starter lockout switch. A testing procedure is on page 203 of my manual, doubtless close to that on your on-line copy.

Here's hoping this information contained in the manual might be accessible and useful to you.

Last edited by Damocles; 08-18-2013 at 08:10 PM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Correction to this post

Feel like a fool again! I'm talking about the Engine stop switch....I KNOW the sw on the clutch is the starter lockout - cause Tom & Damocles drumed that into me when I first got in to this mess! Sorry guys, must be the 79yrs gettin' to me.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
JS, a very detailed and ISOLATED wiring diagram of the STARTER SYSTEM can be found in the ELECTRICAL SYSTEM chapter of the Clymer manual whose URL I posted (Chapter 9).
I promise - no further questions/comments on this 'til I fix it!!

Jim
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 08:31 PM
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Engine switch ON, WHITE to BROWN connected.

BROWN connected to engine stop ("KILL") switch.

When engine stop switch is in RUN position, 12 VDC (from BROWN wire, ignition switch ON) is connected to STARTER BUTTON.

When starter button is pressed (ignition switch ON, engine stop switch in RUN position), + 12 VDC is routed to starter circuit relay activation coil connection; other end of coil finds ground either through clutch safety switch, or neutral switch, for starter relay to close and activate starter relay and turn starter motor on.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 08:41 PM
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Your bike and your budget, JS, but . . .

You've spent $ 250 on new instrumentation (but NOT $ 25 for a Service Manual! ), why not take the bike to a dealership where dedicated, factory-trained Kawasaki technicians can fix it?

The days deadlined, and the hours of frustration seeking a cure, carry a burden. One shop visit may cure all your electrical problems; it should, IMHO.
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-18-2013, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Sizemore View Post
Feel like a fool again! I'm talking about the Engine stop switch....I KNOW the sw on the clutch is the starter lockout - cause Tom & Damocles drumed that into me when I first got in to this mess! Sorry guys, must be the 79yrs gettin' to me.
WHAAAAAT????????????

You mean, ALL THIS TIME, you've been talking about the ENGINE STOP ("KILL") SWITCH, and NOT the STARTER LOCKOUT (CLUTCH SAFETY) SWITCH????????????

GEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!

This explains why your comments about chasing a "battery wire" to the "starter lockout switch" made no sense to me, hard as I tried to understand it.

No real problem, JS; only . . . in the future, please try to be more specific and accurate in your NOMENCLATURE (names of parts), so you might receive more meaningful and useful advice.

Best wishes!
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-19-2013, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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You think YOU'RE frustrated with me - you ought'a look at me from MY standpoint! I don't know that I have EVER done such dumb trblshooting. I haven't had to THINK for the last thirty years....Woke up at 0400 this morning and it dawned on me that,when I pulled the small connector off the start relay to apply 12v to where the black wire had been, that I had removed the gnd wire also. No wonder I thought the relay might be bad!!

Frustrated Jim
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