No start problem almost cured - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-22-2013, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Gainesboro, TN
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No start problem almost cured

This has taken quite some time for me to make sense of - but NOW I know how the clutch switch works!. during one of the take apart trblshooting escapades, the traveling switch activator got out of it's hole and, if not for the copious amount of grease on it, would have been lost in the grass(LAWN grass, that is!). Got that all cleanedl up and working properly but STILL no start. Start switch had no voltage from the kill switch. I managed to push the start button, with it's
housing, out of the kill switch housing. Can short across the wires soldered to it and the starter motor turns. Trying now to see if I can get the switch apart to clean and re-tension the contacts(and maybe stretch that spring I read about on that "OTHER" SITE i WASN'T EVER GOING BACK TO!). Have looked at Kawa parts breakdown but haven't found the switch offered as yet....just the push button switch?

You folks that already know your machine intimately are welcome to continue laughing....

Not as frustrated, JIM Sizemore.

Last edited by Jim Sizemore; 08-22-2013 at 01:51 PM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 08-22-2013, 04:41 PM
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The "clutch" switch?

Still don't follow your nomenclature and function of parts, Jim Sizemore!

The clutch switch, or starter lockout switch, as some know it, provides a GROUND to the starter circuit relay coil when the clutch lever is "squoze;" the starter circuit relay coil is routed to the neutral switch for its ground when the clutch lever is "un-squoze."

Reference to the wiring diagram, and/or images of the parts you discuss might be helpful.

-------------------

Now, talking about the ENGINE STOP SWITCH, or the KILL switch. Do you get + 12 VDC to this switch, when the ignition switch is ON?

When the ENGINE STOP SWITCH or the KILL switch is in the RUN position, do you get + 12 VDC to its connection to the STARTER BUTTON?

If so, when you press the STARTER BUTTON, ignition key ON, KILL SWITCH in RUN position, do you get + 12 VDC routed to the STARTER CIRCUIT RELAY?

If the answers to these questions are all, YES, you should activate your STARTER CIRCUIT RELAY, and in turn the STARTER RELAY, and turn over your starter motor; given the NEUTRAL SWITCH is grounded by the engine being in neutral, or a ground is provided to the STARTER CIRCUIT RELAY coil by a "squoze" clutch lever and activated clutch safety switch/STARTER LOCKOUT SWITCH.

---------------------

Again, respecting your prerogatives, is evacuating your bike to a competent shop beyond the realm of possibility?

Last edited by Damocles; 08-22-2013 at 04:43 PM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 08-22-2013, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for your thoughts, Damocles. i have found them to be right on target. Now that I have cleaned up the "switch on the clutch lever" and have it working per Clymer manual link you sent. I can short across the wires soldered to the back of the start switch and the bike starts/runs. looks to me as tho I need to clean or replace that switch?? (since pushing the button accomplishes nothing....).

Took me a while to get my brain back in gear.

Jim

Last edited by Jim Sizemore; 08-22-2013 at 05:33 PM.
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post #4 of 10 Old 08-22-2013, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
provides a GROUND to the starter circuit relay coil when the clutch lever is "squoze;" the starter circuit relay coil is routed to the neutral switch for its ground when the clutch lever is "un-squoze."

So you are saying what the book says - barring any trbl, the starter should go clutch lever squoze OR unsquoze??

Again, respecting your prerogatives, is evacuating your bike to a competent shop beyond the realm of possibility?
Have you tried to find one of those in middle TN??

No need now as I know how it works - I'll just leave the starter button hanging out and keep my pocket screwdriver(crowbar) handy!

Jim

And seriously, Damocles, Thanks for your & everyone's patience with me....
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post #5 of 10 Old 08-22-2013, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Found kill sw/ start sw on ebay in case I can't get this one apart without destroying it....It's out of the kill sw housing but its own housing appears to be snapped together! & flimsy!

Jim
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post #6 of 10 Old 08-22-2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Sizemore View Post
I can short across the wires soldered to the back of the start switch and the bike starts/runs. looks to me as tho I need to clean or replace that switch??
If you're talking about the STARTER BUTTON, I'd agree.

You can access exploded parts diagrams from Kawasaki or from BikeBandit; referencing the parts to these fiches and/or parts lists (where parts are identified by name and number) might help in further discussions.

Looks like 27045 references your entire ENGINE STOP SWITCH/STARTER BUTTON assembly:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...9026#sch442816

Click on CONTROL & BRAKES, OEM PARTS, HANDLEBAR.

The switch matrices at the top of the wiring diagram show the switching logic.

----------------------

I guess I don't know where "middle Tennessee" is; however, TPI near Nashville (I think) "wrote the book" on KLRs. They sell beaucoup aftermarket parts; if they do not have the resident expertise, I'd trust their referral.

Last edited by Damocles; 08-22-2013 at 07:37 PM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 08-23-2013, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Start switch

Yeah, Damocles, That's it. I had found that - but the entire assembly is not defective - just the start switch. Will attempt to pry it apart today(before the temp gets to 91*) tried to locate whatever TPI is but don't know what that acronym stands for....

Again - many thanks, Jim
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-23-2013, 06:15 AM
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post #9 of 10 Old 08-23-2013, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millhouse View Post
+ 1, Millhouse!

In Gallatin, TN, Jim Sizemore!

Call "Bob" at the phone number given, and . . . bet he can refer you to someone who can help.
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-23-2013, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by Millhouse View Post
Not too far away - if I need them. Appreciate your time and effort.

Jim
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