Stalling Issue - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 39 Old 09-17-2013, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Bear, DE
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Stalling Issue

Has anyone else had a stalling issue when coming to a stop? I'll be running fine at 50mph, then when I come to a stop if I don't keep revving the throttle the engine will stall. I will then have to use full choke to get the engine started again. I have also noticed that the running temperature seems to come up much quicker than before. The spark plug looks as though the engine has been running lean, which the Clymer manual says can cause high running temps.

I know the fuel valve operates on vacuum. Just curious if others have had this problem and was it in the carb or fuel valve?
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post #2 of 39 Old 09-18-2013, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Dualie View Post
Has anyone else had a stalling issue when coming to a stop? I'll be running fine at 50mph, then when I come to a stop if I don't keep revving the throttle the engine will stall. I will then have to use full choke to get the engine started again. I have also noticed that the running temperature seems to come up much quicker than before. The spark plug looks as though the engine has been running lean, which the Clymer manual says can cause high running temps.

I know the fuel valve operates on vacuum. Just curious if others have had this problem and was it in the carb or fuel valve?

Sounds like the pilot jet is clogged. Probably a good idea to take apart the carb and give it a good cleaning.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #3 of 39 Old 09-18-2013, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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I have the carb off the bike and will decide soon whether I will disassemble or send it out. A person is posting on my local craigslist.org that he is a small start up without the overhead of the established shops. I always hate sending things out and I bought the Clymer to avoid this, but there looks to be many small parts in this carb. Plus I don't have the trained eye to know what is actually defective.
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post #4 of 39 Old 09-18-2013, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dualie View Post
I have the carb off the bike and will decide soon whether I will disassemble or send it out. A person is posting on my local craigslist.org that he is a small start up without the overhead of the established shops. I always hate sending things out and I bought the Clymer to avoid this, but there looks to be many small parts in this carb. Plus I don't have the trained eye to know what is actually defective.

The carb is easy just take off the float bowel and the piolt jet and main jet are accessable. Remove the float and float needle, pilot and main jet (pull out the slide also) use some brake or carb cleaner to blow the jets out. Should be able to see daylight through them when they're clean. Blow out all the passages clean it up good and button it back up.

Might look into the .22 mod while you're in there also. Here's the link

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #5 of 39 Old 09-18-2013, 11:30 PM
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Talking

Before you take the carb off, when the bike stalls open the gas cap. Your tank may not be venting. This happened to me. If you over fuel your bike gas runs into the vapor recovery system. This fills the charcoal canister and stops the tank from venting. On hot summer days sitting in the sun, fuel will expand in the tank and run into the system as well. If the bike sits long enough the canister will dry on it's own. The bike will be okay, until you over fill the tank. The owner's manual tells at what level to fill the tank.

The best thing to do is remove the vapor recovery system. It will also make it easier to adjust your pre-load. Getting rid of that plastic cylinder you have to unstrap to get to the adjuster.

If you live in California just pull the lines at the back of your tank under the seat. Marked with a Red and Blue dot. Run a hose to the swing arm from the nipple marked with a blue dot. This will vent the tank to the air. Put a vacuum cap on the Red. When the tree Nazis come around, it's a quick reconnect.

It's an easy check just open the fuel cap if the bike run, it's not venting. If you don't have a vapor recovery system, DISREGARD ALL THE ABOVE lol
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post #6 of 39 Old 09-19-2013, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by kilowatt View Post
Before you take the carb off, when the bike stalls open the gas cap. Your tank may not be venting. This happened to me. If you over fuel your bike gas runs into the vapor recovery system. This fills the charcoal canister and stops the tank from venting. On hot summer days sitting in the sun, fuel will expand in the tank and run into the system as well. If the bike sits long enough the canister will dry on it's own. The bike will be okay, until you over fill the tank. The owner's manual tells at what level to fill the tank.

The best thing to do is remove the vapor recovery system. It will also make it easier to adjust your pre-load. Getting rid of that plastic cylinder you have to unstrap to get to the adjuster.

If you live in California just pull the lines at the back of your tank under the seat. Marked with a Red and Blue dot. Run a hose to the swing arm from the nipple marked with a blue dot. This will vent the tank to the air. Put a vacuum cap on the Red. When the tree Nazis come around, it's a quick reconnect.

It's an easy check just open the fuel cap if the bike run, it's not venting. If you don't have a vapor recovery system, DISREGARD ALL THE ABOVE lol

+1 good info

I was having a problem with my bike when switiching to reserve, bike would die and wouldn't start back up when running out on the main tank. I would have to pull over and use the starter to get it running again. Turned out that the charcoal cannister had some gas in it.

You do need to cap off the vacuum line running to the cannister if you remove it. I replaced the 3 way fitting by the carb with a T.

The California model also has a charcoal cannister under the left side cover.

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
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post #7 of 39 Old 09-19-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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I tried riding with the gas cap opened before I started this post. I don't have the vapor recovery system, but thanks for all the advise. Earlier I did have a squealing sound coming from the fuel cap at times, I took it apart to find a white substance build up on the internals of the vent valve assembly. I cleaned them the best I could and it still was making the squeal sound for a while, but I didn't notice this the past few times I have ridden the bike. I thought the vent was totally blocked and that is when I ran with the gas cap opened.

I do remember reading somewhere that this bike should not run alcohol base fuel which I can't avoid since my area stations all sell 10% ethanol fuel. I am wondering if this is what caused the white substance in the vent valve and possibly this current issue.

Oh well, I'm headed for the garage! I'll report back.
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post #8 of 39 Old 09-19-2013, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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The carb is soaking in Pine Sol. I watched all 4 of Tom Schmitz videos of the carb overhaul and it was spot on. Thanks Tom and all those who contribute to this site. I hope to be of help to others someday.

Time to go watch the Eagles play the Chiefs and Big Red, Andy Reid thier old coach.

GO EAGLES!!!
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post #9 of 39 Old 09-20-2013, 12:24 AM
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-1 on the Eagles. I'm a PA boy and sorry to see them lose

+1 on the pilot jet as the cause of your issue. Triple check that you have the slide diaphragm correctly installed or it wont run past 2/3 throttle

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post #10 of 39 Old 09-23-2013, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Well I put it all back together and took it for a ride yesterday. It had great throttle response in first gear then a very noticeable sluggishness. I did the .22 mod using 1 washer on the needle and no airbox mod. I rode it again with the air filter access cover off to see if that would make a difference, but it didn't. I took it apart again and made sure all orfices were clear.

UncleWray - I suspect the diaphram could have been leaking, I will reassemble with vasiline and extra attention tonight.
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