Time for a Valve Adjustment - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 22 Old 06-07-2007, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Time for a Valve Adjustment

I'm pretty sure I'm going to do the valves along with the other 500 miles service stuff on Sunday. I've got a couple questions for you guys.

I might wait a week and do all the other 500 mile stuff this weekend. Do you think it'll be OK to put another 100 on it before I get at them? I'm thinking it will be but I want to be a good owner. It might be nice to get the Valve DVD from Arrowhead to see it done.

What shape feeler gauges work the best? Some of the blade ones have a kink in the end of them and I think I saw a write up somewhere where that type was used.

I've got an Inch-lb torque wrench, am I going to need one in ft-lb for anything?

The procedure I read said to use non hardening Silicone sealant for the valve cover. Is that the same stuff as the Silicone RVT that I would use on my jeeps differential covers?

Can I get a KLR oilfilter at NAPA?

And anything else you guys can think of. Little tricks or stuff you would have done differently?

Thanks
Brian
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post #2 of 22 Old 06-08-2007, 07:09 AM
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Disconnect the speedometer cable and then the motor won't know it's put on that extra 100 miles.
I've only done one KLR valve check, it was in spec so I haven't been through the shim thing. I did not use any sealer on the gasket, does not leak. I have a variety of feeler guages, used the angle set on some. My guages can be taken apart and used individually, without having to contend with holding the rest of the set. Tha helped a bit on some of the more hidden valves.
Jim

KlR650 x 2 F650gs XL185
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-08-2007, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLRless View Post
I'm pretty sure I'm going to do the valves along with the other 500 miles service stuff on Sunday. I've got a couple questions for you guys.

I might wait a week and do all the other 500 mile stuff this weekend. Do you think it'll be OK to put another 100 on it before I get at them? I'm thinking it will be but I want to be a good owner. It might be nice to get the Valve DVD from Arrowhead to see it done. You'll be fine with another 100 miles.

What shape feeler gauges work the best? Some of the blade ones have a kink in the end of them and I think I saw a write up somewhere where that type was used. Bent ends work best, flat works okay.

I've got an Inch-lb torque wrench, am I going to need one in ft-lb for anything? Inch pound is all you need.

The procedure I read said to use non hardening Silicone sealant for the valve cover. Is that the same stuff as the Silicone RVT that I would use on my jeeps differential covers? You don't need to use anything at all on the valve cover gasket.

Can I get a KLR oilfilter at NAPA? Yes, 4951...I think.

And anything else you guys can think of. Little tricks or stuff you would have done differently? Set it to TDC after the valve cover is removed. Leave the timing chain cover alone even when changing out shims, there is room to lift the cams and then you don't risk dropping the little bolt into the motor. Don't forget to remove the cam chain tensioner spring bolt before you remove the body of the tensioner.

Thanks
Brian
It's not nearly as difficult as it sounds. Take your time and be careful tightening the valve cover bolts..55 inch pounds on those.
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-08-2007, 01:51 PM
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I might be a bad owner. My Kaw dealer does not check the valve at the 500 mile service. I now have just shy of 1000 in under 4 weeks. I was going to check the valve at my 3000 mile oil change. Should I reconsider? It is running awesome and doesn't sound or feel any different in the power dept. I have heard the valves have a tendency to tightening up instead of loosening and that you will have a marked decrease in power when this happens. Should I do them now?

2008 DL650 VStrom Yellow and Black
Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
Looking to get back into KLR's sometime soon.

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post #5 of 22 Old 06-08-2007, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys. I'm going to wait until next Sunday to do the valves. It'll give me time to get everything together. Plus I want to ride this Sunday

DXKLR,
I dont' know about when you really need to do the valves. It says in my manual to check them at 500miles, the dealer told me that I don't need to check them for 1200 or so. And I know there are tons of KLR's running around that probabaly have never had their valves cover removed. All I know is that I'll get around to it in short order.

Brian
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post #6 of 22 Old 06-09-2007, 02:59 AM
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Yeah it's a pretty important part of keeping the ole klr running good. I've had a hand in 80 or so valve adjustments on klr's alone. I've seen one bike with zero clearance on all four valves at 600 miles. It's usually just 1 or 2 way too tight at the 500-600 mile mark.

Yes, they do tighten up with age.

I recommend checking/adjusting to the loose end at 600-6,000-12,000-20,000-30,000. I've only seen a coupla klr's with 50,000 or more on them..one did need all four adjusted. This is just my experience. YMMV
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post #7 of 22 Old 06-10-2007, 09:29 AM
 
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make sure your timing chain tensioner resets

one Caveat, make sure your timing chain tensioner resets when you reinstall it. I checked the valves on mine a few weeks ago, they were well within spec, buttoned everything up and when I started it the timing chain slipped and I broke off the exhaust valves inside the cylinder. $250 in parts later and it should be running this week.
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post #8 of 22 Old 06-10-2007, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSquared View Post
one Caveat, make sure your timing chain tensioner resets when you reinstall it. I checked the valves on mine a few weeks ago, they were well within spec, buttoned everything up and when I started it the timing chain slipped and I broke off the exhaust valves inside the cylinder. $250 in parts later and it should be running this week.
So I need to adjust the tensioner once I get done checking the valves just to make sure it is set ok? Just making sure I am understanding this right. Because I have got to check my valves this week. Just rolled 1100 miles on it yesterday.

2008 DL650 VStrom Yellow and Black
Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
Looking to get back into KLR's sometime soon.

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post #9 of 22 Old 06-11-2007, 01:10 PM
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DXKLR,

Check the valves as early as possable.
The factory sets them tight so they dont make alot of noise that new owner will want to bring them back to the dealer for a check. and as like Larryboy says, they will get too tight in short order...

And like KLRless says, some have never been checked ... ever. But, I'm sure if they did adjust them properly they'd think they just got a new high horse motor installed.

The cam chain tensioner is on the side of the jug, (not the one for the balancer lever. < not trying to say you dont know, it's just mistaken alot)

Pull the center bolt (12mm wrench) watch out for the spring flying out !
take the 2 plunger housing bolts(10mm wrench) out and remove the body.( take a look to see just how far the plunger is extended, it's just knolwedge of how far the cam chain is streched.

You'll see a pawl on the end, push it down and rachet the plunger back into the body. reinstall back on the jug.
When your finished with the valve adjust. put the spring back in and the 12mm bolt. Listen to the sound of the rachet extending (very important! ask Tomatocity why we were up so late that day.)

your done.
go ride with confidence !

- Joe

HighSpeed Hiker- DV o5'
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post #10 of 22 Old 06-11-2007, 07:01 PM
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Update!! Got a lot of my stuff in from KLR650.com and ebay. I'll post the other stuff in another thread, but any rate, I removed everything so I could do the Subframe bolt upgrade, and decided to go ahead and check the valves. Everything inside looked good. As for clearances, a lil tighter than what I wanted, but, I think will be fine till I check them again. Give me some input here, the Intake clearances were between .013 and .014mm. A .015 would NOT slide in, the 013 had no drag, and my guages didn't have a .014. Also the Exhaust, again both sides were the same spec being, .018. A .020 would not slide in and I didn't have a .019. So from what I can tell the intake and exhaust valve were all at least .003 from the tight side of the specs. Intake being .010 and exhaust being .015. I didn't see any reason to go any further, or, should I? I did not go on and remove the cam bearing caps and check the sizes of the shims, as I didn't want to if I didn't have too.

2008 DL650 VStrom Yellow and Black
Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
Looking to get back into KLR's sometime soon.

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