Adjusting clutch cable? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-01-2013, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Adjusting clutch cable?

I just put a new clutch cable on my 01 and it made a huge difference. I want to adjust it for optimum pull but not sure how that is best done. I know I can adjust at the clutch pull on the motor and at the cable. Which do I start with and what am I looking for? Meaning, what is optimal pull for when it starts to grab? Is there a standard adjustment for pull mechanism vs. at the cable? Don't have a service manual so don't know what is standard.
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-01-2013, 06:57 PM
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i set mine so there's about 1/4" - 1/2" play in the lever, adjusting at the lever if there's enough there, if not you'll have to adjust at the engine

2013 KLR650
1994 YZ250
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-02-2013, 01:55 AM
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I have short fingers so I set mine to start engaging when the lever is about 1/4" from the grip.
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-02-2013, 01:01 PM
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Generally, the only real concern is that you have slack (no tension/pull) on the cable when the lever is released. If there is not enough slack, the release bearing will be under load all the time and is not designed for this constant loading.

Add to that the effect on the clutch plate clamping while there is release pressure which is to reduce the clamping of the clutch plates and so reduce the torque which the clutch can transfer.

Too little release clearance is the same as riding with the clutch lever pulled in partially all the time. This will cause increased wear to the release bearing which may or may not be a problem. It may also allow the clutch to slip which has all the issues of glazing, heading, wear, which are obvious.

On the other end of the range, too much slack/clearance, is that the clutch may not release sufficiently when the lever is pulled in. This will be more of a riding problem than a mechanical wear one. How much you can tolerate will control that long before other issues are extant.

Something to think about regarding adjustment is to try to place the slotted opening in the lever adjustment screw in a downward angle so that it does not act as a funnel to gather water and dirt into the cable.

Apologies for posting such basics as I suspect that you already know all this and were asking a higher level question which I missed.

HIH

Norm
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-02-2013, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Normk - I appreciate the basics and now understand the consequences of too much or too little tension. That is what I wanted to understand. I'll check the play at the lever and adjust accordingly. Does it really make any difference if the adjustments are made at the engagement lever on the motor or at the lever?
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-02-2013, 04:42 PM
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It is only a matter of convenience regarding the KLR clutch adjustment whether at top or bottom. Various schools of thought but what we did in the shops was to adjust so that there was a small amount of adjustment screw thread out of the lever.

The idea was that some change in conditions or rider preference might make more cable slack (more lever movement) desireable so the rider would have some slack with which to adjust without requiring tools. In the other direction (inserting more slack to compensate for clutch plate wear) there would be close to the maximum amount of lever adjustment screw.

This allowed the rider close to the maximum adjustment at the lever, again not requiring tools.

Some people have good reasons for adjusting differently but this seemed to satisfy the majority. One downside of having a lot of adjustment screw threads protuding from the lever base is that there is more leverage against the threads in the event that something snags or strikes the cable or adjuster screw. This makes breaking the adjustment screw or lever base more likely.

Don't omit removing the lever pivot bolts periodically to clean the pivot area and introduce new grease. Cable lube will penetrate but try using a good waterproof chassis grease once for the purpose and see if you prefer the action. Cable lube also doesn't seem to flush out dirt very well so noticed that levers and pivot areas last longer when greased.

HIH

Norm
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-03-2013, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normk View Post

Something to think about regarding adjustment is to try to place the slotted opening in the lever adjustment screw in a downward angle so that it does not act as a funnel to gather water and dirt into the cable.
Norm
Good thinking, Normk. I'd never considered that. It makes perfect sense.



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