gen 1 electrical battery is fine - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 26 Old 11-13-2013, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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gen 1 electrical battery is fine

Got off work today, turned key and nothing. Pushed...popped clutch and got home. Battery is fine with 12.95 volts sitting. I bypassed the starting solenoid and got it running...still nothing with key on. no neutral light etc. instrument lights flash occasionally when running. This is my only transportation to work so would like to get it sorted out and cant find my clymers....thanks much grande!
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post #2 of 26 Old 11-13-2013, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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now i get power to the ignition but wont turn over....slight click from solenoid.....thinking its bad.... ?
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post #3 of 26 Old 11-13-2013, 10:06 PM
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Well, from here it sounds like it but you'd think you'd have lights and all when you turned the key even though when you hit the start button you get no turning over.
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post #4 of 26 Old 11-13-2013, 10:50 PM
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Sounds like by now, maybe a weak battery. (Assume battery connections are clean and tight.)

Jump with a known hot battery (e.g., from automobile) and see if electrics work properly.

Assume you've checked and fuses (both main and headlight) are o.k.
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post #5 of 26 Old 11-13-2013, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmindbender View Post
. . . cant find my clymers....
While you search for your Clymer's:

http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-c...ng-diagram.gif
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post #6 of 26 Old 11-13-2013, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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THANKS ! !

weird. initially...nothing....no lights etc. then i bypassed the solenoid and it ran...same as when I popped clutch. Then the lights came on etc but just a little click at the solenoid....battery still 12.95 and it started by bypassing again. Half hour later like new.... hehehe.... gotta love elec gremlins. will have tools from now on... Left them out for no good reason which i cant remember. thanks for your input....i'll route the wiring this weekend and check grounds etc. any further ideas won't be mistreated! thans again
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post #7 of 26 Old 11-14-2013, 12:51 AM
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Do you have a voltmeter or even a test light?

If so, check voltage across battery when the starter button is pushed. If the voltage drops very low when button is pushed, bad battery. A test light will go out under the same conditions.

My bet is that you have a bad connection at the positive battery cable, next most likely at the negative.

Next check: check for battery voltage from the battery cable side of the starter relay to ground. Ditto with a test light. The voltage should be battery voltage until you hit the starter button and should drop to about 10 or 10-1/2 volts while the engine is cranking. A test light should dim a bit while cranking.

If the voltage drops low or to zero (or test light goes out) while cranking, you have a bad connection in one of the battery cables.

Next, check voltage across starter relay from battery cable to starter cable. You should show full battery voltage (bright test light) until starter button is pressed and then voltage should drop to less than 1/2 volt. (test light should be bright and then go out)

You can try the old "stone axe" method of jamming a piece of steel or copper between the two heavy starter relay studs (pity to burn spots on a nice tool). The engine should crank.

Regardless, I understood that you have a "click" from the relay when the starter button is pushed?

HIH

Norm
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post #8 of 26 Old 11-14-2013, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmindbender View Post
Half hour later like new....
Great!

A loose battery terminal connection could be the cause of it all.

(Do not ask me how I know this is true. )
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post #9 of 26 Old 11-14-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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it was fine this AM. then ok when i left for lunch but dead the rest of the day. Not sure why bypassing solenoid would work if its a battery cable issue? ckd them as well. I use a voltmeter not a light and all is 12.95. It wont crank when its dead unless I jump the pos on the solenoid to the lead going to the starter.

It acts like an ignition switch issue. I dont have time to really dig right now. but will. Its ok that i can get it going even if i have to bypass...for now. I plan on taking apart the front panel (for loss of a better term) and getting the leads onto the ignition switch to see if It has power. And work back from there. if its a battery cable...which i seriously doubt i'll find out. Id guess solenoid isnt getting juice to ignition switch or its the ignition switch. could be full of crap too... appreciate the input.... !
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post #10 of 26 Old 11-14-2013, 10:39 PM
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If only cranks when you short the two heavy starter relay studs (battery cable to starter cable) together, either the starter relay is not closing the contacts or the relay is not being operated by the starter button & safeties.

Can you hear the starter relay "click" at the times when the engine doesn't crank?

Also, could you clarify what you mean by, " dead the rest of the day"? Do you mean that that the starter doesn't crank the engine/ doesn't turn the engine? Just needing to make certain that I understand correctly as trying not to lead you into unnecessary testing.

If the starter relay doesn't "click", unplug the small two wire plug from the starter relay. Then, using your voltmeter red lead check from the battery positive to the Black/yellow wire in the two wire plug. Note, it may be better to probe the meter lead into the back of the plug rather than into the end which plugs into the relay. This is to reduce the chance of spreading the plug terminal.

You should show full battery voltage with the above test because the black/yellow wire goes to the common ground in the wiring harness.

If this test shows battery voltage, the likely cause is either an open circuit in the starter relay's magnetic winding (not common), stuck relay plunger (not common), or an open circuit in the starter button/safeties circuits.

The quick way to check the next stage is to plug the two wire back into the starter relay (while you had it off, you noticed whether the inside of the plug terminals and relay terminals were clean, right?), then use a jumper wire to connect momentarily from battery + to the back of the black wire in the two wire plug. **Make certain the transmission is out of gear because this will spin the starter and engine regardless of whether in gear.

If engine cranks then the starter button/safeties circuit will need to be explored. If the engine does not crank and the starter relay "clicks" the relay will need to be disassembled and cleaned or replaced. I clean them as they will usually last for many years after a clean.

If the starter relay does not "click" the starter relay plunger may be stuck or the magnetic winding open. An ohm meter test between the two small leads (to which the two wire plug connects) should indicate less than 30 ohms - going from memory as don't test them in this way. I prefer to simply jumper one of the small leads to ground and the other to battery +. Relay should "click". Ohmmeters can fool one in this kind of testing.

That should indicate either the fault as in the starter relay ground circuit- black/yellow; relay; or in the starter button/safeties circuit.

One needs be careful not to confuse the "starter relay" with the "starter circuit relay". The "starter relay" is the bigger one to which the starter and battery cable connect.

This is why technicians generally refer to the "starter relay" as the "starter solenoid".

HIH

Norm
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