Rear Wheel Bead Won't Break - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 36 Old 12-15-2013, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Wheel Bead Won't Break

Howdy Everyone! I'm kinda bummed about this one. I had a job interview in St. Louis which I drove my Gen 1 to (1.5 hours one way). I noticed a bit of a weave 20 miles from home, so checked the rear tire pressure and it was a bit low, however I decided to push on. Got to the interview and back safe and sound only to find my tire completely flat about an hour after I got home. (Lucky dude right here)

Anyways, I took er apart and have not been able to get the bead to break. I am running the Shinko 705 (a tubeless tire). The other day I put 4 C-Clamps on the tire to break the bead. All I'm doing is stretching the sidewall and contorting the tire. This dang bead won't break. Also: I've used soap.

I *do not* have access to a car to do the car lever technique (I drive my bike year round).

Does anyone have any ideas of what I can do? Historically I've taken it to the Dealer down the street, but that is 50 bucks and I don't have anyone to transport me and my wheel there at the moment.

Am I doing something wrong here? I'm really frustrated with this dang thing. I've changed tubed tires in the past and never had nearly the headache this is causing me.

Should I just pay the money and get a bead breaker from harbor freight? How much more effective could a bead breaker be than 4 C-Clamps?

And I'd like to be able to do roadside tire changes. If I buy the Harbor Freight bead breaker, what can I do about roadside changes?

Thanks,
-stefer

2006 Red KLR 650

Modifications:
1)Doohickey Planned and purchased 2)Aftermarket Grips 3)Grip Heaters 4)Happy Trails Hard Luggage Rack 5)20 mm ammo cases planned soon 6)Aftermarket Exhaust 7)Thermobob 8)Happy Trails Fork Brace 9)Stainless Steel Oil Filter 10)Magnetic Drain Plug

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post #2 of 36 Old 12-15-2013, 10:19 PM
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Soap, soap and more soap. Do you have any tire irons that you can use along with the clamps. It can be done. The tire sidewall may be a little stiffer than what you are accustomed to. Pour the soap to it and let it seep in. It should come.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #3 of 36 Old 12-15-2013, 10:24 PM
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Hi Steferf!
When I use a C clamp to break a bead I put it on from the RIM side. That way the clamp can't slide away from the rim edge and onto the sidewall of the tire. This concentrates the force of the clamp right next to the tire bead/ rim edge. You shouldn't need multiple clamps to break the bead.
Regards....justjeff

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post #4 of 36 Old 12-15-2013, 11:23 PM
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Using the side stand of another bike has bailed us out many times on off road. Give that a try. As KLR4evr said, more lubrication although soap may not be ideal. As for hand breakers, I've had the best fortune with one of the wide chisel type breakers which are driven by a dead blow hammer or very heavy solid head hammer. Big is the answer as one needs a long duration of impact rather than sharp, short blows which are provided by a lighter hammer. Work around through a large area as trying to drive a short section of bead down is a recipe for problems.

The Motion Pro Bead Popper: http://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/moti...ad-popper.html

Works well although one may have to locate a good sized chunk of log or big rock to drive it on the road.
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post #5 of 36 Old 12-16-2013, 05:42 AM
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+ 1 to all comments previously posted above.

My friendly local neighborhood independent chopper shop has a PNEUMATIC bead-breaker; kinda like a C-clamp, but with curved jaws approximating the arc of the rim . . . they feed the tire to this contraption, pull the trigger, and . . . the bead doesn't stand a chance!

Reckon this device is used for big, fat, Harley hog tubeless tires; but . . . it'll work on KLR tires also.

This outfit charged $ 30 for tube replacement, rim off bike.
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post #6 of 36 Old 12-16-2013, 06:33 AM
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When I used to use a big C-clamp, I would put a flat piece of wood on one side -- on the rim -- so that the clamp pulled only on one bead. Then flip it all and pull the other bead to the other rim.

It gets to be a handful keeping all the pieces in place.

I now use the Motion Pro Bead Pro tire irons and am a big fan.
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post #7 of 36 Old 12-16-2013, 06:47 AM
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Hope you get it broken loose, steferf. If you're concerned about future roadside changes, you might consider switching to a tubed tire as they seem to me much easier to work with with minimal tools and time.

I second justjeff's technique (I learned it from him) of putting the c-clamp on from the rim side. It works much better than from the tire side.



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post #8 of 36 Old 12-16-2013, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. You have all inspired me to take another whack at it. I am certainly moving to tubed tires after this -- but I don't want to waste the two tires I currently have. (once a KLR owner, always a KLR owner)

Also -- the 50 dollar tire change is what they charge me to change it tire off bike. I cringe at the thought of paying them that again.

Anyways will give all the advice a shot. Will update when I have tried all of this.

2006 Red KLR 650

Modifications:
1)Doohickey Planned and purchased 2)Aftermarket Grips 3)Grip Heaters 4)Happy Trails Hard Luggage Rack 5)20 mm ammo cases planned soon 6)Aftermarket Exhaust 7)Thermobob 8)Happy Trails Fork Brace 9)Stainless Steel Oil Filter 10)Magnetic Drain Plug

See profile visitors post for details and planned mods.
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post #9 of 36 Old 12-16-2013, 09:55 AM
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$50 for a tire change is robbery IMO. That's almost the price of that tire. Be different if it involved removing the wheel from the bike.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #10 of 36 Old 12-16-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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I agree! though that does include a 10 dollar tube. I buy the tube from them because it is a reasonable cost.

2006 Red KLR 650

Modifications:
1)Doohickey Planned and purchased 2)Aftermarket Grips 3)Grip Heaters 4)Happy Trails Hard Luggage Rack 5)20 mm ammo cases planned soon 6)Aftermarket Exhaust 7)Thermobob 8)Happy Trails Fork Brace 9)Stainless Steel Oil Filter 10)Magnetic Drain Plug

See profile visitors post for details and planned mods.
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