Coolant temperature sensor resistance versus temperature values - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 12-24-2013, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Coolant temperature sensor resistance versus temperature values

Coolant temperature sensor resistance versus temperature values:
Measured from 1998 KLR650

Cowasaki specifications:
47 – 57 Ohms @ 80 C - 176 F
26 – 30 Ohms @ 100 C – 212 F

Measured values (1998 KLR650)
82 Ohms @ 150 F
54.5 Ohms @ 150 F
33.5 Ohms @ 210 F
25.0 Ohms @ 220 F
17.7 Ohms @ 240 F
9.9 Ohms @ 270 F
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-24-2013, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Gauge plate template:

Taking the base line horizontally through the screw hole centers with vertical (90 degrees) from the needle pivot which is midway between the screw holes, the placement of the temperature markers is as follows:
90 C @ 80 degree angle
100 C @ 90 degree angle
150 F @ 64 degree angle
180 F @ 72 degree angle
210 F @ 93 degree angle
240 F @ 105 degree angle
270 F @ 125 degree angle


The center to center of the screw holes is 0.852" which provides scaling, I think.

If one wishes only to have their gauge display in degrees, check the Thermobob web site as there used to be an overlay for less than the trouble to make one.

The above should be adequate test data to diagnose or determine whether another guage or sender can be adapted.
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post #3 of 7 Old 12-25-2013, 12:35 AM
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Data from the ThermoBob web site:



Another view:



The temperature gauge indicates coolant temperature at the cylinder head; the thermal fan switch reacts to coolant temperature at the bottom of the radiator. The former can be much higher than the latter. Nevertheless, if the coolant remains below its boiling point (in the pressurized radiator) and the temperature gauge needle avoids the rightmost red sector, the engine's operating within a safe temperature range, IMHO.
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-25-2013, 01:54 AM
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Norm -

This data is quite worthless if you don't have the dyno run sheets to back it up.

Also, it is obvious that the Ohms in your 15 year old KLR are somewhat worn. You should replace them before your V/I breaks.

Tom

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post #5 of 7 Old 12-25-2013, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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You always amaze me Tom! How do you do it?

The voltmeter on my KLR just quit as you predicted. Seriously!

Sometimes you guys really frighten me.

Best to all. Everyone has my personal permission to engage in acts of gluttony.

Norm




Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Norm -

This data is quite worthless if you don't have the dyno run sheets to back it up.

Also, it is obvious that the Ohms in your 15 year old KLR are somewhat worn. You should replace them before your V/I breaks.

Tom
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-25-2013, 02:12 AM
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Well, some days even a mute dog named Geezer can hear a passing freighter...

"Wait, that makes no sense - Stevie Wonder can see that!", Tom said blindly.

T

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post #7 of 7 Old 12-26-2013, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
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