Carburetor question - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 4 Old 08-09-2007, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4
Carburetor question

I'm looking for someone who has completely dissasembled the KLR carb before and has good knowledge of it's inner workings. I have a very specific question about the amount the main air jet. After you screw it all the way in, you are supposed to back it out a certain number of turns. My bike came with it backed out 1 1/4. 2 other KLR carbs I have had that screw backed out 2 1/2 turns. Mind you these are from 1984. What is the ideal amount this screw should be backed out? Thanks - Chris

Last edited by 1984KLR; 08-09-2007 at 11:47 AM.
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post #2 of 4 Old 08-10-2007, 09:10 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 173
Chris, the short answer is that there is no one, ideal setting for the idle mixture screw. Sorry. Aftermarket exhausts, air filters... even altitude, can affect the mixture. That said, most of the time, a setting of 1 3/4 to 2 turns out from lightly seated seems to work well for most stock-jetted, CVK40 carbs on KLR650s. Hope that helps.

More fool stabilizer, please.
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post #3 of 4 Old 08-11-2007, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4
Alright, thanks. It's runnin a little rich so I'm gonna keep messin with it.
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post #4 of 4 Old 08-11-2007, 07:49 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 173
Since these are '84 600 carbs, you've already spent more time with them than I have. I suppose the main difference from the 650 carb is the main jet sizes. The 650s come with a 148 main, I'd guess the 600 had somewhere around a 140 from the factory. The 650 comes with a 40 pilot jet, I think the 600 did too.
One thing you might check is the float valve and the service fuel level. If the valve leaks or the level is set too high you'll get a pesky rich condition that's hard to sort out otherwise. I've seen them where they would let so much gas pass through that it would fill the crankcase with fuel! Not good.
Sometimes a bike will sit for a long time (like years) with gas in the carb. The gas evaporates over time and leaves a sort of varnish on everything. This can make the float valve stick open until you clean it out and/or replace the float needle.
Also, the float needles can get worn so they don't seal anymore. In this case you can usually see a "step" in the dome end of the needle. All you can do with these is replace them.
Keep us posted on how it goes.

More fool stabilizer, please.
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