I got '01 KLR around last June with something like 17k miles on it. I didn't know if the PO checked the valve clearance.

It's at around 19.5k now and I've just pulled off the cylinder head cover (which was tougher than expected). I turned the crankshaft by hand until I saw the mark in the window, and the cam sprockets have arrows that point forward reasonably close to the height of the cylinder head cover.

I slid feeler gauges under the cam lobes and (never having done this before) I started with .15 and it wouldnt fit so I went smaller until one fit. I came up with .13 mm on both exhausts and on the intake I got .08mm and .10mm.

I checked with this calculator http://klr650.carguy.org/shims.html and it looks like it recommends that I get 4 x 2.70 shims. At this point I am assuming I have stock shims but I don't know.

Should I remove my old shims now to find out first? What is the process involved there?

*edit*
I see I have to input what clearance I want into the calculator. After putting the maximum listed clearance it says I need 2x 2.45 and 2x 2.50 shims.

kyoxn,
Yes, you must inspect the OLD shim numbers, currently used on Each Valve.
The numbers are on the Bottom Side.
Very rare to be less than Three (3) different numbers.
Available in .05mm increments. That's .002 inch increments.
Sometimes you can just move one or two to a different valve.
You must remove the 4 cam bearings in-order to lift / tilt the cams Enough to Extract them.
You really Should have a Service Manual!

Or go to FAQ's.

You have to find out what size shims are in there. There isn't a stock shim size, they vary from motor to motor.

Procedure is measure the clearance which you have done. Pull the shims (have to pull the cams out) check the size. Usually they have the size in mm printed on one side, if you can't read them measure with a micrometer. Then use the shim calculator to figure out what size you need. Notice the calculator has an entry for existing shim size?

The KLR motor generally runs better with the valve clearances at the max end of the spec. Noiser but better!

Thanks gents.

I do have the kawasaki manual but at times it is less than explicit. For example, I looked up how to remove the cylinder head cover because it looked tight.

Cylinder Head Cover Removal

Step 1. Remove cylinder head cover.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

It comes out easier if you can smush the top radiator hose out of the way to let the valve cover shift forward a bit.

Each shim should be marked and the marks should be on the bottom, not where the cam can wear the marks away. Write down the sizes as you take them out or mark 4 plastic bags and carefully put each shim in the correct bag. If you DO have one with the marks worn off, you can measure it later and know where it came from. (A dealer near here will exchange with customers -- worth asking at your local dealer. If you have a shim with marks worn off they'll have the mic to measure it.)

When you're done, you'll take a second measurement to make sure you got all the shims in the right places and that the changes are what you expected.

THEN you get to put some sealant around the left of the cover gasket (where the bolts don't go) and try to get it back in without getting goop everywhere.

Did you remove your old shims to determine the size with the Edit above?

In order for us to confirm your numbers we need to know the existing shim size and the measured clearances. So far I haven't seen your existing shim sizes posted. You don't want to screw this up.

There are lots of resources on the Net better than some of the manuals.

This is one that has been around for a long time:

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html

.

Yes, I did go back and pull the shims.

2.45-.13. 2.55-.13
2.60-.08. 2.60-.10

I redid the calc and have ordered a 2.35 and two 2.50 so I'll have to wait a few days to continue. Called the bmw dealer and they don't have shims on hand. The kawa dealer is closed for construction.

Looks good.

Re-reading the manual and looking over the guide at marknet, as I turned the engine I didn't see a 'T'. I went around and around several times and never saw a letter. Did I miss it?
At this point, the intake valves just closed. The cam lobes (both sides) are pointed away from the engine.


The cam sprocket arrows aren't quite at the cylinder head line.

Doesn't look like you are on the right spot. There are actually 3 lines in there. The first is just a line. Then there's another line and an "F" laying on it's back, and then a line with a "T" laying on it's side. The line with the "T" is where you want to be. The arrows on the cams should then line up with the head.

I think I can see the second line just on the right in your picture.

Look closely. You'll have to re-install your shims and cams and remeasure if you were on the wrong line.

This is what you are looking for: