Checking valve clearance '01 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 18 Old 02-03-2014, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Woodridge, IL
Posts: 120
Checking valve clearance '01

I got '01 KLR around last June with something like 17k miles on it. I didn't know if the PO checked the valve clearance.

It's at around 19.5k now and I've just pulled off the cylinder head cover (which was tougher than expected). I turned the crankshaft by hand until I saw the mark in the window, and the cam sprockets have arrows that point forward reasonably close to the height of the cylinder head cover.

I slid feeler gauges under the cam lobes and (never having done this before) I started with .15 and it wouldnt fit so I went smaller until one fit. I came up with .13 mm on both exhausts and on the intake I got .08mm and .10mm.

I checked with this calculator http://klr650.carguy.org/shims.html and it looks like it recommends that I get 4 x 2.70 shims. At this point I am assuming I have stock shims but I don't know.

Should I remove my old shims now to find out first? What is the process involved there?

*edit*
I see I have to input what clearance I want into the calculator. After putting the maximum listed clearance it says I need 2x 2.45 and 2x 2.50 shims.

Last edited by kyxon; 02-03-2014 at 04:05 PM.
kyxon is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 Old 02-03-2014, 04:30 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,323
kyoxn,
Yes, you must inspect the OLD shim numbers, currently used on Each Valve.
The numbers are on the Bottom Side.
Very rare to be less than Three (3) different numbers.
Available in .05mm increments. That's .002 inch increments.
Sometimes you can just move one or two to a different valve.
You must remove the 4 cam bearings in-order to lift / tilt the cams Enough to Extract them.
You really Should have a Service Manual!

Or go to FAQ's.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
pdwestman is offline  
post #3 of 18 Old 02-03-2014, 04:34 PM
4th Gear
 
Spec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Gateway to Death Valley!
Posts: 1,928
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyxon View Post
I got '01 KLR around last June with something like 17k miles on it. I didn't know if the PO checked the valve clearance.

It's at around 19.5k now and I've just pulled off the cylinder head cover (which was tougher than expected). I turned the crankshaft by hand until I saw the mark in the window, and the cam sprockets have arrows that point forward reasonably close to the height of the cylinder head cover.

I slid feeler gauges under the cam lobes and (never having done this before) I started with .15 and it wouldnt fit so I went smaller until one fit. I came up with .13 mm on both exhausts and on the intake I got .08mm and .10mm.

I checked with this calculator http://klr650.carguy.org/shims.html and it looks like it recommends that I get 4 x 2.70 shims. At this point I am assuming I have stock shims but I don't know.

Should I remove my old shims now to find out first? What is the process involved there?

*edit*
I see I have to input what clearance I want into the calculator. After putting the maximum listed clearance it says I need 2x 2.45 and 2x 2.50 shims.

You have to find out what size shims are in there. There isn't a stock shim size, they vary from motor to motor.

Procedure is measure the clearance which you have done. Pull the shims (have to pull the cams out) check the size. Usually they have the size in mm printed on one side, if you can't read them measure with a micrometer. Then use the shim calculator to figure out what size you need. Notice the calculator has an entry for existing shim size?

The KLR motor generally runs better with the valve clearances at the max end of the spec. Noiser but better!

No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what God has prepared for those who love him. 1 Cor 2:9
Spec is offline  
 
post #4 of 18 Old 02-03-2014, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Woodridge, IL
Posts: 120
Thanks gents.

I do have the kawasaki manual but at times it is less than explicit. For example, I looked up how to remove the cylinder head cover because it looked tight.

Cylinder Head Cover Removal

Step 1. Remove cylinder head cover.

Installation is the reverse of removal.
kyxon is offline  
post #5 of 18 Old 02-03-2014, 08:50 PM
2nd Gear
 
Grinnin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Maine
Posts: 368
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyxon View Post
I looked up how to remove the cylinder head cover because it looked tight.
It comes out easier if you can smush the top radiator hose out of the way to let the valve cover shift forward a bit.

Each shim should be marked and the marks should be on the bottom, not where the cam can wear the marks away. Write down the sizes as you take them out or mark 4 plastic bags and carefully put each shim in the correct bag. If you DO have one with the marks worn off, you can measure it later and know where it came from. (A dealer near here will exchange with customers -- worth asking at your local dealer. If you have a shim with marks worn off they'll have the mic to measure it.)

When you're done, you'll take a second measurement to make sure you got all the shims in the right places and that the changes are what you expected.

THEN you get to put some sealant around the left of the cover gasket (where the bolts don't go) and try to get it back in without getting goop everywhere.
Grinnin is offline  
post #6 of 18 Old 02-04-2014, 09:43 AM
Moderator
 
klr4evr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Sask , Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,466
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to klr4evr
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyxon View Post
Should I remove my old shims now to find out first? What is the process involved there?

*edit*
I see I have to input what clearance I want into the calculator. After putting the maximum listed clearance it says I need 2x 2.45 and 2x 2.50 shims.
Did you remove your old shims to determine the size with the Edit above?

In order for us to confirm your numbers we need to know the existing shim size and the measured clearances. So far I haven't seen your existing shim sizes posted. You don't want to screw this up.

There are lots of resources on the Net better than some of the manuals.

This is one that has been around for a long time:

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html

.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

<--- Please fill in the 'Location' on your personal profile page. User CP/Edit Your Details

This information makes it much easier for other members to answer/comment on your posts.

Last edited by klr4evr; 02-04-2014 at 09:47 AM.
klr4evr is offline  
post #7 of 18 Old 02-04-2014, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Woodridge, IL
Posts: 120
Yes, I did go back and pull the shims.

2.45-.13. 2.55-.13
2.60-.08. 2.60-.10

I redid the calc and have ordered a 2.35 and two 2.50 so I'll have to wait a few days to continue. Called the bmw dealer and they don't have shims on hand. The kawa dealer is closed for construction.

Last edited by kyxon; 02-04-2014 at 01:40 PM.
kyxon is offline  
post #8 of 18 Old 02-04-2014, 12:30 PM
Moderator
 
klr4evr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Sask , Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,466
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to klr4evr
Looks good.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

<--- Please fill in the 'Location' on your personal profile page. User CP/Edit Your Details

This information makes it much easier for other members to answer/comment on your posts.
klr4evr is offline  
post #9 of 18 Old 02-04-2014, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Woodridge, IL
Posts: 120
Re-reading the manual and looking over the guide at marknet, as I turned the engine I didn't see a 'T'. I went around and around several times and never saw a letter. Did I miss it?
At this point, the intake valves just closed. The cam lobes (both sides) are pointed away from the engine.


The cam sprocket arrows aren't quite at the cylinder head line.

Last edited by kyxon; 02-04-2014 at 03:41 PM.
kyxon is offline  
post #10 of 18 Old 02-04-2014, 07:12 PM
Moderator
 
klr4evr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Sask , Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,466
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to klr4evr
Doesn't look like you are on the right spot. There are actually 3 lines in there. The first is just a line. Then there's another line and an "F" laying on it's back, and then a line with a "T" laying on it's side. The line with the "T" is where you want to be. The arrows on the cams should then line up with the head.

I think I can see the second line just on the right in your picture.

Look closely. You'll have to re-install your shims and cams and remeasure if you were on the wrong line.

This is what you are looking for:


My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

<--- Please fill in the 'Location' on your personal profile page. User CP/Edit Your Details

This information makes it much easier for other members to answer/comment on your posts.

Last edited by klr4evr; 02-04-2014 at 07:15 PM.
klr4evr is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Valve Clearance Adjustment, When? wrenrj1 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 43 05-17-2019 10:40 AM
Feeler Gauge For Valve Clearance Check planalp 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 2 09-09-2011 11:56 PM
Okay, When Should I Check My Valve Clearance? planalp 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 10 06-30-2011 02:43 PM
Different footpeg - more clearance (Clarence) ridgerunner 2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions 8 02-04-2010 10:02 PM
Handguard clearance basement Bike and Rider Gear 1 10-04-2009 09:04 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome