battery/starting probs - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-08-2014, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by doggie12 View Post
ok,,silly me I found the fuse bx,,and the 10amp fuse is blown,,should I replace the other fuse also? Ive also read theres a 3rd fuse somewhere,,not sure where?
The stock main fuse is 20 amp; if yours is GOOD (electrical check is best; appearances can be deceiving), no need to change that one. As to the 10-amp fuse, that's the headlight fuse. I'd recommend replacing with a 15-amp fuse, because . . . Generation 1s have a habit of connecting high- and low-beam lights simultaneously, when switched, a situation sometimes blowing the stock 10-amp fuse.

Fear not jumping; your seat's off already, you have access to your battery terminals--with a little care, and all that plastic around the battery box, you're not likely to short anything out!

Just asking; ever check the ELECTROLYTE LEVEL in your battery? If so, did you find any cells LOW of fluid? Without sufficient electrolyte, of suitable quality, battery can't hold a charge.
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-08-2014, 08:25 PM
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Not trying to blow you off, doggie12, but here's a wiring diagram; with a multimeter, you should be able to diagnose and fix your problem:

http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-c...ng-diagram.gif

You may merely have a problem from a defective safety switch situation. Still, getting that "click" when punching the starter button suggests you have a good circuit to your starter relay, just a weak battery.

Bad starter? Jump the heavy cable from the battery's positive termanl connector on the starter relay to the small black cable connector on the starter relay; should activate the starter motor. If it doesn't, looks like a bad starter or starter relay (good battery voltage, or good jumper battery, assumed).
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post #13 of 15 Old 03-09-2014, 09:32 AM
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I've never really gotten a good lifespan out of regular motorcycle batteries... Even if I pull them out every winter and maintain them monthly I would only get about 3 years out of them tops. The KLR battery is even worse as it gasses off it's electrolyte so quickly. I'm trying out AGM batteries to see if they last longer.

My vote is a weak battery as well, especially if it was working fine when you parked it.

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post #14 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!! your all correct! I did the install of batt,,w/12.5 volts on it,,hooked up the volt meter to batt,,hit the starter,,and WHAM! it dropped to 4 volts!!! Soo,,,I NEED A BATTERY!! LOL. the batt is only 2 yrs old,,but that doesnt mean all that much because it sat inside the house,,and i didnt slow charge it as much as I should have{my bad} so,,Im learning the hard way to remember to charge it at least once a week. The fluid levels are in the middle of the markers on the batt,,so thats what confused me. But it works out ok because were getting 4-6 inches of snow tommorrow,,and unless I go ice racing,,I wont be able to ride anyways. But you guys helped alot with your info about batt stuff. Thanks so much!
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post #15 of 15 Old 03-10-2014, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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@ Damocles,,that color coded diagram is awsome!!! Much better than the kawi service manuals B/W print,,I have the "base" + supplemental" manuals,,there ok,,but i really like the color coded one,,waaayyy easy to follow signal paths,,thanks so much!
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