The bike is a 2005 with 9,800 miles.
I did hook up a good compression gauge with the correct fitting. The battery was strong but did not hold the throttle wide open (I am used to testing outboards....no throttle required).
Anyway......the compression leveled out at 60psi each time the start button was engaged for 3-5 seconds.
On the outboard motors, the control box will only allow 'X' amount of throttle opening and still allow the starter motor to operate.
You Should Use as Much as you can get.
You should 'Crank it' till the gauge stops gaining.
Chances are at 9800 miles Some or All of the valve tappets need to be re-shimmed.
Chances are, the previous owner never did it, nor had it done.
Valve shims are available in .002" increments, seldom can you achieve perfect Max. Spec. But always adjust to upper middle or max. spec., if possible.
The KLR compression spec, WITH an Operating KACR is 77-124 psi.
There is NO Spec for a non-operating KACR!
Because it is kinda' tough on the small battery and small starter motor to Crank a 100mm piston against 165-195psi, year after year.
Tight valve clearance can cause LOW Compression, yes?
A tight RH Exhaust tappet, allows the KACR to Hold the RH Exhaust open longer, even less compression.
With 100-120 psi, a KLR starts very well in any temperature I care to ride in WY.
If after valve adjust and confirmed leak-down is nominal, if COLD cranking compression is still less than 90 psi, the KACR pin could be relieved about .010". Concentrating on the peak to the trailing side. We are primarily changing the 'Closing degree of crank angle'.The KACR is in there for 'good reasons', but sometimes even IT needs a little 'tuning'!