Maintenance / Service order on an bike that was inactive for 8 Years. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 03-13-2014, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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Maintenance / Service order on an bike that was inactive for 8 Years.

Hi,

some background for my upcoming question:
I got a 1987 KLR from a long time friend of mine as a gift - something I couldn't have allowed myself normally. As of now I have a new home, 11 month old daughter and a Wife that looks for a new job. So in short I'm on a really tight and unpredictable budget. Also I have no experience in riding a bike, and no equipment - so till I gear up semi properly I spend my time trying to learn controlling the bike at speeds below 20mph (only in forest)

The bike I got has been parked in a shed in 2006 and since then never used, moved - nothing really happened to it. End of 2013 I transported it to my home and did the only things I could:
1. Get a new key (bike came without any)
2. Changed all of the rubber elements in the petcock
3. Changed old oil to a new Castrol 10W40 and installed a new filter.

I waited with possible investments until I was 100% sure it runs. As of Yesterday - I know it runs.

So, given my very tight budged I see a lot of work before me and try to sort out the most necessary things as first. I'll divide it into works and gear.

I'd like to ask You to either Improve my list, and/or reorganize it with elements I have not taken into account. (If I mess some words in English please excuse me, no experience in Bike dictionary). The lower the number in the beginning the higher priority it has:

Gear:
-2. Battery (now it runs on a borrowed one)
-1. Helmet and goggles
0. Neck protection from wind
3. Gloves and Shoes
4. Proper light armor trousers and jacket

Maintenence:
-1.
Getting the brake system intact. According to manual pads should be changed below 1mm - mine are at ca. 3mm so I'm safe here. Today I'm buying a DOT4 brake fluid and will replace the old one with it completely. New lever has been ordered to replace the old, broken one.

0.
Checking the cam. On 1'st gear at ca. 3000 rpm something rattles like crazy around the engine - will have to check if its the cam or the passengers foot support (or however are this thing You place the foot at called). It happens only when driving.

0.
Clean and oil the chain, check the slack and wear with proper tools (not naked eye)

1.
Changing the coolant.
Checking the Air filter for the carburetor.

9. Installing a new speedometer line, old one is broke.
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-13-2014, 06:54 AM
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Good thing for you the engine runs! Stored for such a long time, the carburetor likely would require cleaning. Perhaps the machine was stored intelligently, as with a drained carburetor or stabilized fuel.

I'd recommend draining all old fuel (if you haven't already) and using fresh gasoline.

Otherwise, sounds like you are on the right track, and you have a manual. You might de-mount the wheels and lubricate the hub bearings, change and set level of fork oil, lubricate swing arm bearings, given the age of the bike.

Some will tell you to replace your idler shaft lever (doohickey), but after 25 + model years, I wouldn't expect a sudden catastrophic failure, or an urgent need to perform this upgrade.

Congratulations on the gift bike; good luck, and welcome to the forum!
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-13-2014, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Well de-mounting the wheels puzzles me right now.

Usually I placed my bicycle upside down for this task but it is around 12 kg and KLR is well, a tad bit more than that and not as easy to grip

So how does one do it at home, lie the bike on the ground on something soft, hoist it?

Cleaning the carburetor - based on experience: is it something to be done by a pro only or can a manually skilled amateur like me do it without making things worse?
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-13-2014, 08:58 AM
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De-mounting and mounting wheels is straightforward, not an unusual procedure, common in many ways to other motorcycles. Raising the frame (with a jack, blocks of wood, stones, bricks, etc.) to keep a wheel off the ground is preferred to laying the bike down (fluids leak from a bike on its side).

You can clean your carb, if it needs cleaning:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=19026

YouTube video clips are on-line for many KLR maintenance tasks (changing tires and wheels, brake pad replacement, etc., etc.

If you want to know how your carb works, Google "Care and feeding of the CVK40."

Again, good luck!
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-13-2014, 01:13 PM
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I would think you are going to NEED to take those wheels off and replace the tires since it has been sitting so long. Those tires are probably dry rotted or worse. With a little help from a buddy you can block up under the frame to get those wheels off the ground. Be sure to be VERY careful with a blocked up bike as they can be unstable and fall over quite easily.

How many miles are on the bike?
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-13-2014, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Miles are tricky.

Speedometer is scaled in Miles as primary unit and Kilometers as secondary.

No info on the trip meter what unit it is. According to papers I'm the 7'th owner so I do not know if it was made for US or Europe. Until i repair the speedometer cable I'll not be wise.

None the less, trip meter says ca. 46 thousand...
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-31-2014, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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The engine vibrates above 2500/3000 RPM - so I'll have to check the doohickey and the whole balancer unit.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-31-2014, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esthan View Post
The engine vibrates above 2500/3000 RPM - so I'll have to check the doohickey and the whole balancer unit.
Merely adjusting the balancer chain slack (in 5 minutes or so, without disassembling the engine) might reduce the vibration.
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-31-2014, 06:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Merely adjusting the balancer chain slack (in 5 minutes or so, without disassembling the engine) might reduce the vibration.
I lack the torque wrench to do it :/

Or can it be done without one?
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-31-2014, 09:22 AM
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No torque wrench required but don't use the strength of Hercules to tighten. Just snug is good.

Given the age and history I would be taking off the side cover to have a look inside and see if the doohickey is actually still intact.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

<--- Please fill in the 'Location' on your personal profile page. User CP/Edit Your Details

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Last edited by klr4evr; 03-31-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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