2006 KLR Power Problem - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-23-2014, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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2006 KLR Power Problem

Okay here goes. I was riding the other day and stopped at a motorcycle dealer. I noticed I didn't leave room for another bike to park next to me so I backed up the bike, but it quit running so I went to start it up. I started to pull in the clutch lever in and hit the start switch before I had the clutch fully engaged and I heard a squeaky sound like it started to start but it didn't.

At this point it wouldn't even turn over, no neutral light and no power at all. I have been working on troubleshooting this problem for several hours and nothing to show for it. Main fusses are good, but what I found is odd is I have 12.8 volts until I turn the bike on and then it goes to zero volts. This tells me something is shorted out completely, but I just can't figure it out. Don't know what's bad and needs replacing.

Need a little help from someone that may have some experience or knowledge please.
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post #2 of 8 Old 03-23-2014, 05:49 PM
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First thing, tighten the battery cables at the battery and then the starter relay.

Keep us posted.

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-23-2014, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Everything's tightened down, but still no go. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-23-2014, 07:51 PM
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Going from 12.8V to 0V is significant. If you have a short it's not through a fuse. The only stock* wire on the battery that is not fused goes to the starter solenoid. Disconnect the starter solenoid under the tall black cover on the left then test to see if the other electrics work.

It COULD be a broken plate in the battery -- the plate count is correct so the voltage is correct, but one plate is just a little piece so that it cannot deliver any amperage so the voltage immediately drops when you ask for any amps at all. You might disconnect the battery then attach a temporary circuit to a 12V light.

*If you have accessories, they would have to be on thick wires for them to cause that much sag and not melt insulation.

Last edited by Grinnin; 03-23-2014 at 07:54 PM.
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-23-2014, 08:07 PM
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Have you tried to jump it?
What brand of battery?
And where are you measuring the voltage?


I've had at least four batteries die in that fashion, worked and then just no cranking amperage at all. Starting to point to the failed plates inside the battery.

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-23-2014, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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I measured the voltage directly off the battery. Then I measured it off the right side of the starter relay and it was the same.

When I measured the voltage between the positive and negative terminals of the battery it's good but as soon as I turn the key on it goes to zero. I am thinking it's the battery. I am using a Fluke 8062A multi meter. I know it's old but it's been a great meter, but for the voltage to drop to zero volts directly off the battery after I turn on the ignition is really weird.

I get no headlight, idiot lights, brake lights nothing...
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-23-2014, 09:33 PM
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Well, if you're using a Fluke, I know that you know what your doing. Great meters, tough and last a long time.
Make some jumpers leads and see if you get lights etc. with just a hasty jumper to 12V.

Or, just buy a battery. I recommend Interstate for the price, or if you really want one of those glass-mat specials...

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #8 of 8 Old 03-24-2014, 12:52 AM
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If the voltage is dropping to zero or near zero when a load is applied to the battery (key turned on), you either have a very high resistance between the battery and load point where the voltage is being measured; or, you have a very high resistance in the battery.

I'm not certain whether you are measuring voltage directly from the battery posts (not the bolts)?

If you are measuring the voltage from the bolts or cables, there may be a bad connection. If you are measuring the voltage directly from the battery posts and voltage drops to near zero when the key is switched on, the battery is junk.

You can duplicate the bad connection phenomenon by connecting a test light between the battery post and battery cable of a properly functioning bike. Hook the voltmeter to the battery post and note the meter shows full voltage. Now, switch on the key. The bulb will glow and the meter will show battery voltage. Now, switch key off and move the meter to the cable side of the test light (side away from the battery post). The meter will show battery voltage. Switch the key on again and notice that the voltage drops to near zero because of the resistance of the test light.

Another way to approach this is to use another battery such as jumper cables to a car battery. If it behaves normally, chances are the bike battery is at fault.

If the problem isn't the battery:
You mentioned that the cables are tight but have you removed them and cleaned the surfaces. Shiny black is not good, silver is good. Black oxide is not a good conductor.

I think someone mentioned that this is a common type bike battery failure. You are likely experienced with automotive batteries but bike batteries are strange creatures which have very different failure characteristics. They often break one of the internal buss bars which makes temporary or poor contact. When a load is applied, they may carry a small one but open the circuit for larger ones such as starting. In other cases, they will show battery voltage but fail to carry even a test light.

The other posts have offered very useful advice. If the above doesn't address the problem, follow what has been said.

HIH

Norm
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