Misc questions - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 14 Old 11-21-2007, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Misc questions

I just got this bike that my brother had the engine rebuilt on. I'll have to check and see if the doohickey mod was done and if not, I'll have to get to that. In the meantime I noticed the water temp wasn't working so I started taking apart the bike. I found the wire and reattached it and it is now working. I found the forks were about 2 inches high so I lowered them per the clymer book description so they are almost flush now.

I think my other brother (passed away, owner of bike), had hand warmers on the grips. Can you guys look at this pic and tell me if that looks like what this is? there are two wires (A) going to each grip and a Hi/Low (C) switch going through a 10w ceramic resistor (D). If they are hand warmers, how practical are these? I notice the throttle does NOT return automatically so these may be binding the throttle too.

Also, can you tell me the purpose of (B) nut on the brake handle ?

http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/3...udio001tx5.jpg

fuzzy pic of hand grip warmer? ....
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/5250/studio003zo1.jpg

pic of hi low switch and resistor
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/2797/studio004cv0.jpg

Is this fork brace necessary?
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/152/studio005dp1.jpg

Thanks very much.
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-21-2007, 10:24 AM
 
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The fork brace will help make the bike feel more stable at high speeds like the interstate, hand warmers, if you do any kind of cold weather riding are very nice.
the nut on the brake lever is holding a bolt in place that keeps your lever from coming off.
I'd clean and lubricate the throttle cables on the bike to see if that helps before going gonzo on it.

these are just my opinions, take them for what they're worth.
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post #3 of 14 Old 11-21-2007, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the info Bob. So are the threads on the brake bold for a mirror that I already have elsewhere ?
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-21-2007, 10:48 AM
 
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the bolt is for the stock hand gaurds, this looks like a nicely modified/farkled bike, give us some pics when you get it together.

Last edited by hotfoot777; 11-21-2007 at 10:52 AM.
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post #5 of 14 Old 11-21-2007, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
 
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will do. i'm reading that the front forks should have 0 atmosphere air pressure according to page IX of the clymer manual. So if that's true, what are the nipples for? Do you really not put any air in them?

I'm not sure what a farkled bike means but here are the pics of my late brothers bike that I now have from when he took it to costa rica. He had a great time on this bike and I'm just getting it back after the engine rebuild.

pics .......
http://kfocus.com/klr650/
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post #6 of 14 Old 11-21-2007, 01:29 PM
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The nipples are to bleed air that may be in them. As the forks warm, pressure can build in them.
Some have been known to induce pressure into the forks for added resistance. I'd rather just use thicker fork oil.

I installed a fork brace this summer and it made a world of difference in both on and off road riding.

As far as the hand warmers, as someone who owns TWO electric vests, any warmth when needed is wonderful. As far as sluggish return on the throttle, as suggested, lube first and then see if they still hang up.
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-21-2007, 05:11 PM
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Ermmm if your really in the holiday mood and want to just GIVE AWAY that fork brace, I'll be more than happy to take that thing off ya hands. ROFLMAOO......"I am trying to be funny"!! You got some nice items on the bike.

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Previous ride was a 2007 KLR Black/Silver, I miss it..
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post #8 of 14 Old 11-22-2007, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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hehe, thanks, i go the clutch and brake switch bypass done yesterday and spent 45 mins burning the electrical schematic into my brain. Why couldn't they just use red for all live 12V and red/white for all switched 12V. I'm seeing Red, white, blue and brown all with 12 V. hehe
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post #9 of 14 Old 11-22-2007, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coachz View Post
Can you guys look at this pic and tell me if that looks like what this is? there are two wires (A) going to each grip and a Hi/Low (C) switch going through a 10w ceramic resistor (D). If they are hand warmers, how practical are these? I notice the throttle does NOT return automatically so these may be binding the throttle too.
Those wires are for grip heaters and they do the job. I have the same set up on my bike. My only issue has been the wire going into the resistor vibrating and eventually breaking off. I think I may have that problem solved now though. You should have enough slack in the wires to allow the throttle to move freely. I don't have a problem with that. I had some throttle sticking issues but it was coming from the way my handguards attached to the end of the bars.

Quote:
Motorcycle farkle
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Motorcycle enthusiasts may install accessories, called farkles (also spelled farkels), to customize their machine. The word is generally accepted to mean a combination (portmanteau) of "function" and "sparkle", hence, farkle. One source attributes the term to Pete Wells, the organizer of a 1997 Honda ST1100 rally [1]. The term is well known in the North American sport touring community.

An enthusiast may be in the process of "farkling". The completed motorcycle would be all "farkled up". Radar detectors, Global Positioning System receivers, heated grips, and satellite radios are some of those farkles. Other accessories could be aftermarket seats or bar risers, which make the motorcycle more suitable for long miles.

The term Farkle apparently originated among the ST1100 riders. It is an acronym:

F.ancy
A.ccessory
R.eally
K.ool &
L.ikely
E.xpensive

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Last edited by klr4evr; 11-22-2007 at 04:08 PM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 11-23-2007, 09:07 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coachz View Post
hehe, thanks, i go the clutch and brake switch bypass done yesterday and spent 45 mins burning the electrical schematic into my brain. Why couldn't they just use red for all live 12V and red/white for all switched 12V. I'm seeing Red, white, blue and brown all with 12 V. hehe
If they used red for every hot wire, nobody (including mechanics) would know what wire goes to what. the color coding system is really simple, unless you bypass it with different color wires.
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