Additional/parallel radiator? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 25 Old 07-11-2014, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Additional/parallel radiator?

It this price, I wonder whether this might or a similar but bigger might be a good add on?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Hea...p2056016.l4276
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post #2 of 25 Old 07-12-2014, 04:45 AM
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Looks like an electronics cooler to me, not a KLR cooler. I am fond, however, of the term "18 Zigzags/Inch."

They should rate trails like that: "25 Zigzags/Mile."



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post #3 of 25 Old 07-12-2014, 11:25 AM
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This is for high performance computers. I would not even give it a second look for the bike or for a computer. The good ones are about 2 inches thick and use 3 fans for cooling.
While my wife was living and required constant care I made some very high power computers with water cooling.

2014 KLR650 New Edition
2014 BMW K1600 GTL Exclusive
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post #4 of 25 Old 07-12-2014, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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A radiator is a radiator so I might order one for fun, not that I have cooling problems. The flow rate including inlet/outlet size is one parameter, mounting system another and physical construction as to how much abuse it will endure are others. I thought I might use a parallel flow rather than series because that would reduce the restriction to flow rather than to increase. I have a 195 F thermostat and bypass system of my own design so my system is more stable than stock systems.

I keep looking at KLX250 and others with double radiators and being one to never leave anything alone which can be improved.... ;-) Have made many discoveries as to why "that won't work". Many of those lessons have taught more than other experiences.
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post #5 of 25 Old 07-12-2014, 08:21 PM
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I'm confused. What would be the purpose of dual radiators, whether in a series or parallel?

If the standard radiator is of adequate efficiency, it would seem to me that adding more components would just add more potential points of failure.



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post #6 of 25 Old 07-12-2014, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Right of course, but for slow speed and hard climbing, the temperature can climb quite high. Once the thermostat is wide open (above about 160F for the stock bike but 195 F for mine give or take), the next increment is the fan thermal switch which kicks the fan on at above 210 F. If that is insufficient to extract sufficient heat from the system, the temperature will climb until equilibrium is reached.

Jeff Saline and some others have added radiator capacity in the form of a second radiator while Kawasaki added a larger radiator for the Gen2.

Adding a second radiator to increase the heat transfer area must not reduce flow to the point where the advantage of the added area is less than the reduced flow.

If one adds a second radiator in parallel, the flow will be shared/divided so the resistance to flow will be less than for one radiator or for the two in series.

Big problem is mounting the radiator and relocating the overflow tank. Only time and some fitting.

But of course you already know this and I'm only walking through the process in my head.

That, and it might be interesting to see how the temperatures are affected.

Before you point out that I'd be better off boxing in the engine for much of the year to actually let it stay at operating temperature, I'll admit that too.

Mostly to see how the change affects things and whether predictions pan out.




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Originally Posted by planalp View Post
I'm confused. What would be the purpose of dual radiators, whether in a series or parallel?

If the standard radiator is of adequate efficiency, it would seem to me that adding more components would just add more potential points of failure.
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post #7 of 25 Old 07-12-2014, 09:00 PM
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Normk,
I do know from reading, that Willy's on this site and JeffSaline on .net both run dual radiators. Contact them. I think they are mounted on the RH side.

I personally would not mined a second radiator, after seeing near Redline, climbing Imogene Pass, down in Colorado 3 years ago (turned-off 3 times). I hope to go back down this August.

Chuck B. on .net may also run 2 Radiators.

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post #8 of 25 Old 07-13-2014, 08:17 AM
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Has anybody tried to install a better fan on the existing radiator? I wonder if you could make any gains that way? I guess you couldn't make it much larger, but perhaps one with more efficient blades spinning at a higher rate to draw more air through the radiator at low speeds?

I'm guessing it's not feasible or effective since I've never heard of anybody doing it.



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post #9 of 25 Old 07-13-2014, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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I've attempted to address this issue by placing car door edge rubber over the edge of the fan shroud. This is the stuff which has a soft, pliable side which seals the shroud to the radiator core and so blocks the space between the steel shroud ring and the radiator.

If one does a bit of smoke testing or even uses a ribbon or bit if tissue, one will discover that the fan's action in extracting air from the fan shroud results in a significant amount of air entering between the fan shroud and the radiator. Obviously this reduces the air flow through the radiator core by reducing the low pressure area in the shroud.

It might be well to remind that the fan causes air to flow through the radiator core by reducing the air pressure at the back of the radiator (inside the shroud). Atmospheric pressure forces air to flow through the radiator core into the low pressure area inside the shroud. The fan does not "pull" the air through the radiator.

One cannot do this for the Gen2, obviously, because the fan shroud is integral to the blades.

I'd thought about adding another fan or the possibility of usinrg a "box" system on the back of the radiator such as that used on Volkswagen Rabbits and other cars. This system has an enclosure over the back of the radiator which encloses the complete rear of the radiator so that the fan's action is applied to the whole of the radiator core rather than only to the ring shroud area as for the KLR.

This system was/is common to cars but the difference in the VW system is that there are additional vent holes in the rear of the shroud. Rubber flaps fall over the vents so that the fan's action does not result in air entering into the back of the shroud because the rubber flaps block the vents. When the radiator is moving through the air because the car is in motion, the air pressure in the shroud becomes higher than that behind/outside the shroud so the resulting air pressure inside the shroud opens the flaps and the full air flow through the radiator is unrestricted by the smaller fan outlet hole.

I may take another look at that possibility as it would be fairly simple to make a shroud from Lexan if only for testing. I do lack the precise instrumentation and the expertise to properly evaluate the effects so am trolling to see if Bill Watson might weigh in...?

Any chance you're reading this Wattman?
Perhaps I'll email this thread link and ask if he has time. Nothing better to save wasted effort and to learn that to ask someone who really knows.



Quote:
Originally Posted by planalp View Post
Has anybody tried to install a better fan on the existing radiator? I wonder if you could make any gains that way? I guess you couldn't make it much larger, but perhaps one with more efficient blades spinning at a higher rate to draw more air through the radiator at low speeds?

I'm guessing it's not feasible or effective since I've never heard of anybody doing it.
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post #10 of 25 Old 07-15-2014, 04:53 PM
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Speaking from ignorance since I don't have a gen1, if the main concern is low speed high load operation - climbing a long steep rocky grade- you might consider mounting a second fan on the front of the radiator.
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