Extra circuit turned on with ignition (city lights) pre-08 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 5 Old 08-02-2014, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Grinnin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Maine
Posts: 368
Garage
Extra circuit turned on with ignition (city lights) pre-08

Someone, somewhere, asked me for this. I figured I'd post here too.

These are general instructions on how to connect a relay to the KLR 1st-gen "city lights" wires to turn on and off larger devices with the ignition switch.

The quick version:
  1. Connect the city lights wires to relay contacts 85 and 86. Technically 85 is for ground which is black w/yellow trace on the KLR and 86 is for positive which is brown w/white on the KLR.
  2. Connect the + wire from the battery (and fuse) to relay contact 30.
  3. Connect the + wire going to your dashboard or devices to relay contact 87. This contact is normally open (i.e. there's a gap in the circuit). Contact 87 gets power only when the electromagnet is on.

How I do it.


Most of my bikes have a single pair of extra wires from the battery up to the steering head. It's just ring-terminals, a 10A fuse in a sealed holder, and thick wires up to an SAE plug. I can attach whatever I need to that SAE plug by the steering head. The purpose of this fuse is to protect the wires from overheating and catching fire. The fuse at the battery is not intended to protect devices such as GPS.

I put ONLY a single extra ring terminal on each battery contact. Stacking them up gets messy after a while.

For the KLR, I used a pre-wired relay plug. The black and white wires go to the electromagnet, so they are the ones that get plain 1/8" bullet plugs to match the city-lights wires. Both are male because both of the city-lights wires end in females.

The positive wire from the battery (or from the SAE plug) goes to the "common" contact of the relay or 30 on a standard relay. On the pre-wired relay plug that's the blue wire.

The "normally open" contact from the relay powers the switched devices: voltmeter, jacket outlet, and GPS outlet. This is terminal 87 on a standard relay or the yellow wire in the picture. I connect this to red in my wiring. All the quick-connects on this wire are females with insulation covering them completely -- if something comes loose I want to prevent a short-circuit.

You may note a thin wire and disconnect on the blue wire. This was to power a clock that I wanted to remain on all the time.

The green wires from the SAE plug don't go anywhere near the relay. These have disconnects for negtive or ground for all the devices -- switched and unswitched alike.

The big relay above is rated for 30A. The picture below shows one of those plus 2 relays that are each rated for 20A. The small relay with wires has black and red for the electromagnet, yellow for common (to bat), and brown for normally open (to devices you want to turn on when the relay is on).

The small relay with quick-connect terminals is made by Hella, but the numbers are different: 1 and 2 are the electromagnet while 3 is common and 5 is normally open. Looking at the arrangement of the terminals themselves helps identify some of them; 2 terminals oriented together are the electromagnet while the other 3 are for the switch. The common contact is in the middle so you have 50% chance of guessing the normally closed and normally open contacts correctly.



You may notice that the 30A relay with pre-wired plug has a red wire in this pic but no red wire in the picture of my assembled harness. The red wire is "normally closed" -- i.e. it is connected to the battery when the electromagnet is off. I don't need this and it is a potential short-circuit when the bike is off. I removed the wire from the plug. For the smaller relays I would carefully insulate the wire or terminal that gets power when the bike is off.

Notes on wire gauge.
14AWG is fine for 20 amps and if the circuit has only 14AWG and larger wires then the fuse should be 20A. But using 14AWG wire with heated gear, the voltage will drop on that circuit. I have a volt meter and a heated gear outlet at the front of each bike and I want the volt meter to be pretty accurate. Turning on a 6 amp jacket would cause the voltage on that circuit to drop about 5% below what the battery actually has. It would also cause the jacket to get 5% less voltage and be more than 5% cooler. 12AWG will have less voltage drop. With 10AWG it is not an issue at all.

Running heated gear directly from the thin city lights wires would deliver significantly less voltage to the gear.

Notes on other fuse boxes.
There are fuse boxes that let you configure some circuits as always-on and some circuits as switched. If you want to move the stock fuses out from under the seat and move the fan fuse from behind the radiator overflow tank, one of these fuse boxes with 4 or more circuits may be easier to maintain than this extra circuit. I have had no trouble at all with fuses on my KLR so the stock setup works fine with this addition.

Last edited by Grinnin; 08-02-2014 at 05:55 AM.
Grinnin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 Old 08-02-2014, 08:32 AM
Moderator
 
klr4evr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Sask , Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,561
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to klr4evr
Great post. Thanks for the effort to put it together.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

<--- Please fill in the 'Location' on your personal profile page. User CP/Edit Your Details

This information makes it much easier for other members to answer/comment on your posts.
klr4evr is offline  
post #3 of 5 Old 08-03-2014, 12:22 PM
4th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chilliwack, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,481
An alternative connection for relays in the overflow tank area is to make a Tee wiring connector. Crimp/solder a male 1/4" spade lug connector to a 14 guage wire. Crimp/solder the other end of this wire together with another wire into a female 1/4" spade lug connector. The length of the wire between the two spade lugs can be quite short, just make it long enough to be convenient. The length of the other wire needs to reach your relay.

Now, unplug the "hot" or positive side wire from the horn, plug this wire into the male spade lug connector on your "Tee" lead, and plug its female connector on to the horn.

The horn is switched on and off by the ignition so this will switch your relay(s). Horn operation will be unaffected.

I prefer this to running wires through the moving and congested steering area.
Normk is offline  
 
post #4 of 5 Old 08-05-2014, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
2nd Gear
 
Grinnin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Maine
Posts: 368
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Normk View Post
An alternative connection for relays in the overflow tank area is to make a Tee wiring connector.

. . .

I prefer this to running wires through the moving and congested steering area.
That would certainly work and make this portable to '08 and later KLRs.

On my '01, the steering head doesn't move and the front subframe doesn't move. The 2 city lights wires don't move and are there and ready to be used. Simply requires routing a non-moving wire to the non-moving parts. Sounds like you have interference somewhere.
Grinnin is offline  
post #5 of 5 Old 08-05-2014, 11:42 AM
4th Gear
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chilliwack, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,481
Sorry, badly stated. I don't own a Gen2 but do quite a lot of them as well. What I meant to say is that the movement of the steering causes shifting/movement in the area. On a Gen2, one can run down the side of the fairing to pass the "choke point" but one still needs to accommodate that problem.

In the case of either series, generally simpler, IME, to use the horn. I did a Gen2 relay yesterday using that system again. I run a fuse off the battery side of the starter relay for power to the relay located in the overflow tank area. The relay trigger circuit (magnetic winding) is grounded to the starter cable side of the starter relay.

Powering from the starter relay on Gen2 places the wire into a less problematic area (as for Gen1) and is much easier to do on Gen2.

Grounding the relay to the starter side of the starter relay causes the relay to "turn off" when the starter is operated which removes the accessory power relay's loads from the battery during starting. Since the relay has to be grounded anyway, grounding through a couple of feet longer wire which can be loomed along with the power wire is almost as simple as grounding up front.

Hoping this isn't taken as criticism or hijacking your thread, Grinnin. Good job and helpful post for anyone contemplating. I like to have a look to see what others advocate as there's always something worth considering.

Not criticizing, simply hoping to offer something which might be useful to someone.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
That would certainly work and make this portable to '08 and later KLRs.

On my '01, the steering head doesn't move and the front subframe doesn't move. The 2 city lights wires don't move and are there and ready to be used. Simply requires routing a non-moving wire to the non-moving parts. Sounds like you have interference somewhere.
Normk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Win a Trip for Two to MotoGP: Austin at the Circuit of the Americas Motorcycle.com Site & Industry Homepage News 6 04-03-2014 09:07 AM
No Power When Ignition Switch Turned On? Photon 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 6 05-12-2010 08:08 PM
87-07 KLR650 CITY LIGHTS question. yautja01 KLR & Other Motorcycle Related Discussion 1 05-27-2009 07:31 AM
Just turned 75K rwagnerfoto Rider Reviews 3 04-30-2009 08:49 AM
Replaced fuses with Circuit Breakers DXKLR 1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods 11 07-01-2007 05:21 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome