Failed the Doohickey Broke the Bike - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Brooklyn, NY
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Failed the Doohickey Broke the Bike

Ok so this is really two problems in one, but I ned to describe the first before i describe the second. Or maybe its one problem.. I dont know.

I started real early in the morning today to work on the doohickey. Watched all the videos, read all the instructions and began work. When I got to the part where I needed to use the flywheel puller (motion pro 22mm by 1.5)to take off the rotor it didnt budge, I broke my ratchet trying to take it off, went to the store toget a breaker bar, tried that.. it was bending under the force of me trying to turn the rotor puller. The rotor did not budge a single bit. I quit, reassembled everything, filled the oil back up, reconnected the sprocket guard and skid plate and started the bike.....

Nothing just click click click at first... then zhooooooozhhoooooozhhooooo
high pitched grinding noise and then a smell of something burning...

I turned of the engine and here I am. Not only have a wasted a ton of money buying all these stupid tools and pastes and gasket sealsnts, breaker bars rachets and sockets and FAILED to even get past the rotor in the doohickey "fix" I also broke my motorcycle and cant even ride. Weekend with the girlfriend planned next week. She will love hearing this story.


Any ideas where I can begin to fix this.


I probably should also mention that when I was installing the generator cover back on, its did not completely seat tight no matter how I tried to seat it, it ould always seat on one side and then come losse on another, so i just tied all the bolts and that seemed to do the trick, but its still showing some spacing a bit up top.

I also did not put in a new rotor bolt, since I figured I would tackle the problem again soon and dont want to waste a new one just to have it there for a short time. Its expensive as hell when you couple it with shipping $20 bucks for a bolt...
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post #2 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 09:22 PM
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You need to take the cover off and figure out why it won't go on.

The starter gears come to mind, first, as a potential problem. If you put them wrong side out I believe the cover will not close. They would make all kinds of screeching noises when you tried to start the thing.

I'm not sure if it would be "zhooooooozhhoooooozhhooooo" or more like a "zhoowhehooozhhoowhehooozhhoowhehooo-brdzzz-brdzz-clunk".

You probably gave up too soon on the rotor. I use a 1/2" breaker bar with all my 250 pounds bouncing on the end of it to crack it loose. Sometimes it takes me a couple of tries.

If you go back in, put a lot of grease on the rotor extractor; probably twice as much as you think it could need. Make sure there's a lot of grease on the end. Then put some more on.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-24-2014 at 09:33 PM.
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post #3 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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That's the thing, after breaking my ratchet and a metal pipe i used to leverage it, and after seeing how much the new breaker bar bends i became very shy of this. Its bending so much I feel like I will break it too.... (its also 1/2" drive about a foot and a half bar in lenght)
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post #4 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 10:27 PM
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Two suggestions/observations of when I recently did my doohickey.

I did not engage the teeth of the bottom starter gear correctly with the fly wheel (not sure if this is the right name, this is the big gear behind the rotor) so that the bottom gear did not seat far enough to let the cover sit flush. I noticed this when I fit the cover back on. It did not seat flush. I took the cover off and noticed that the bottom gear was not seating far enough and discovered that I wasn't engaging the teeth of the fly wheel correctly. Might be something to check as it seems easy enough to put the gears back and miss it.

As for pulling the rotor, it was much easier than getting the rotor bolt out. I see that Tom has a similar experience to what you are having in terms of what it takes to get the rotor pulled out. I'm curious if everyone has the same challenge since I didn't think it was bad at all.

I used an Eagle Mike rotor puller, so don't know how the Motion Pro compares. If there are not enough threads on the puller, I could see how there could be an issue; otherwise, if you're putting that much force on the rotor puller and it's not being translated into enough force to pull the rotor, it seems that something else must be holding the rotor back. All speculation on my part. I don't have any specific experience with what holds the rotor in and my experience was really straight forward.
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post #5 of 34 Old 08-24-2014, 11:14 PM
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I have had some almost fall off the crank, while others I've had to use full body weight and a bit of bounce. For some reason (maybe another Kawasaki screw-up) the Gen 2 torque spec is higher than the Gen1. My '08 was hard to get off, my '09 was what I would call normal, and an '11 was a body-bouncer. I've only done a couple of Gen 1; they seemed 'normal'.

tjduex makes a good point about the Motion Pro puller. These things are not model specific, so make sure that the puller threads are not bottomed out on the rotor. Screw it in and make sure it's making contact with the end of the crank and make sure that there are several threads showing outside the rotor.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-24-2014 at 11:20 PM.
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post #6 of 34 Old 08-25-2014, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Will try at it again today. Mine is a 05 so I would say its 1st Gen... Regarding the rotor puller it seems good quality - http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0074/
Also I soaked the puller bolt in motor oil right before putting it in...

Will stick a pipe today on top of the breaker bar to make it even more crazy and try it.
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post #7 of 34 Old 08-25-2014, 09:08 AM
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Grease. It's important.


Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-25-2014 at 09:27 AM.
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post #8 of 34 Old 08-25-2014, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Grease. It's important.

Tom
You are talkong about engine oil right? If not what kind of grease should I use? I have white lithium grease...
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post #9 of 34 Old 08-25-2014, 09:46 AM
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No, not engine oil. Grease, lots of it. On the threads and on the face of the bolt.

And make sure that the rotor puller's threads are not bottomed out in the rotor. I know it's a long shot, but if the threads on the puller or the rotor get stripped you will be up shit creek and into a two-week process to get that rotor off.

There is a lot of stress involved here and motor oil doesn't have the film strength to properly lube the threads or the face of the tool.

I prefer just plain old general purpose grease that comes in a tub. It's nice and thick.

You see, there aren't many threads in the rotor to take up the load, so the stress on the rotor and on the tool are high. If the threads strip on either one the rotor tool may become stuck in there. Then you need to contact Mike or Wyman to get one of the Super Pullers. It'll take some time to get in touch with them, have them ship it to you, yadda yadda. You don't want to wind up there.

Take a deep breath an step back. Evaluate the tool and make sure it fits right and has threads remaining once it's fully seated. Grease the tool well.

You should have a 1/2" drive six point socket that is good quality - Craftsman, Snap-On, Husky, etc. Same with the breaker bar. A bit of pipe to slip over the end of the breaker bar is good, too. What you need to be able to do is apply about 200 lb/foot of torque.

About 130 lb/ft of torque was applied to the rotor bolt. That force wedged the rotor onto the tapered end crankshaft. It's going to take more than 130ft/lb of torque to pop it off. It's been my experience that when they are stuck it takes about 200lb/ft to pop them off.

Generally, take about half your body weight and figure you can use it to apply torque with. If you weigh 200 pounds, figure you're going to need a 2 foot lever (100lbs x 2ft) to properly and safely apply force. Your other 100 pounds will be busy holding onto things and keeping your feet under you. If you weigh 100 pounds yer gonna need help, as you'll need someone to hold the bike while you dance on the end of the breaker bar.

Resist the urge to beat on anything. Beating on anything is a last resort. If you do beat on something, have a helper do so while you apply as much torque as possible. The beating creates a shock which can help to loosen stuff - that's what an impact gun does. Never beat on any part of the motorcycle, especially the rotor. Better to beat on the breaker bar near the socket.

Remain calm, prepare well, and have a go at it. If applying 200 lb/foot doesn't pop it off, remain calm and come back here so we can figure out why it's so stuck.

Tom

Tom [email protected]

“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-25-2014 at 09:51 AM.
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post #10 of 34 Old 08-25-2014, 09:52 AM
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Just askin' . . . anyone ever use an impact wrench (electric or air) on the rotor puller? Or, is that a no-no?

I think an air-powered impact wrench can put out about 700 ft-lb torque; that oughta git 'er done. Unless, somehow, the tool is verboten for this purpose.

-----------------------

Yep; 700 ft-lb:

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...nch-68424.html

Electric: 230 ft-lb:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-e...nch-68099.html

Just for comparison, DeWalt gets 400 ft-lb from this CORDLESS 1/2" drive impact wrench:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...S_010=42242388

Last edited by Damocles; 08-25-2014 at 10:03 AM.
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