1st attempt at Fork Seals - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-26-2014, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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1st attempt at Fork Seals

Feel like I've been posting a bit much here... but I'm on a heck of a learning curve! I've got my 2006 KLR with 11,000miles awaiting her next project. Her left fork seal is leaking. Shop here wants $340.00 for the job (both forks)... but I'm just to damn cheap. HA! I've probed over it and it seems within my limits to attempt - barely.

Couple Q's and confirmations:
1.) OEM seals are preferred over aftermarket seals
2.) Install the OEM seals
3.) Hoist the bike from the ceiling to get the wheel up
4.) Use an air compressor to blow the old seals out
5.) Use a PVC pipe (diameter t.b.d.) to help push the new seals into place.
6.) Flush / clean the forks springs with new fork oil
7.) Refill the forks with the springs out? how much oil?


BC I've never done this... I've watched a ton of vids... but none of the vids show how they compress forks for refilling and measure the oil etc. Anyone know of a vid or instruction write up on it that is detailed to the hilt?!

Seriously... If I've said something boneheaded as hell here point it out!!! I 100% need the pointers. Flipping always get a lil anxious before entering into a new wrenching operation.

TY,
Vince

Last edited by ChutingVa; 08-27-2014 at 11:17 AM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 08-27-2014, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChutingVa View Post
none of the vids show how they compress forks for refilling and measure the oil etc.
With the cap off a fork tube, there's no pressure on the spring. If you hold it upright by the top (chrome) part it'll stay extended. If you hold it upright by the fork lower (aluminum alloy), the fork tube will slide down into the lower from just its own weight.

I can't answer the actual question you asked since I don't watch videos.
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-27-2014, 07:38 PM
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First question back at you. Do you have a Clymer manual??? If not get one.

Some comments since I just did this.

You don't have to hoist the bike from the ceiling. It just has to be high enough to remove the forks.

You can use air pressure to remove the seals after you drained the oil. Wrap a rag tightly around the seal area and add about 50 psi air to the fork, Remember to remove the seal keeper first. Then just wait patiently and the seal will pop out.

You can get some info on setting oil levels here:

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/forkoil.html


But get a manual. It will become your best friend.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #4 of 8 Old 08-27-2014, 09:32 PM
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Using the Forum Search tool I found this:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=8605

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #5 of 8 Old 08-28-2014, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thats a great link... I don't know why when I searched for Fork Seal Replacement on this forum I didn't come up with more threads.

I have a manual on order, seals, boots, and plan on knocking this out next week. TY!

Last edited by ChutingVa; 08-28-2014 at 09:07 AM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 08-28-2014, 03:44 PM
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OEM seals are my preference. Haven't had good luck with after market.

I tapped my seals in place with a piece of 1 1/2" ABS pipe.

You'll need a quart of oil to fill the forks and you'll have some left over but probably not enought to flush them.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #7 of 8 Old 08-29-2014, 12:12 PM
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FWIW, I like (ATF) automatic transmission fluid in Gen1 forks. I know that some prefer heavier oil but generally those people have been heavier than I so that would make sense in requiring more damping.

If you do not have a preference at this time, I suggest trying some cheap ATF to see how you like it. At worst, you can drain it for the heavier fork oil which seems most indicated and the additional change will remove more of the sludge.

Simple to make a tool for setting the fluid level. I don't remove the tubes when doing a change, but rather take the level at the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position which should be the average height. Seems to work well and avoids much work, especially when doing simple fork oil changes.

When doing fork seals, I re-install the fork tube, then add oil to level. I find it easier to slip in the spring, spacer and cap with the tube in the triple tree but each to their own.
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-29-2014, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!
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