07 headlight tail light problem - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 15 Old 08-29-2014, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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07 headlight tail light problem

I have noticed a couple of times my head light and tail light go off for no apparent reason. Sometimes they will come back on. That being said they go off again. Anyway seems like I have a bad connection somewhere. Is there a good place to start? Is this common for a particular connection? I have flicked the switch a few times and it makes no difference. Now this evening I went out and turned on the ignition and the high beam worked but not the low. Dash lights are fine.

Any ideas??

thanks

Gary
Souderton, Pa.
89 xt350 wish I still had her
05 Suzuki DRZ 400
92 K75s
07 KLR 650
13 Triumph Storm
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-30-2014, 02:05 PM
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Surprised that no one has weighed in.

High and low beam are powered from the headlight fuse which is located near the battery unless someone has improved and relocated the fuses. I'd check the fuse and its connections in the fuse holder.

Both high beam and low beam derive power from the headlight fuse, as I said, and have common wiring from the ignition switch, back by the brown wire to the fuse and then forward by the blue/white wire to the dimmer switch. From the dimmer switch, the high and low beams are on separate wires to the headlight.

High is red/black and low is red/yellow.

I recommend that you download a wiring diagram and trace the circuits to become familiar. For those not used to such diagrams, it begins by seeming to be a mass of confusion but use a pointer and following a wire unravels the mess. I recommend making your own diagram by simply drawing the components in question on a blank sheet of paper. I like to place them in their general relationship as my mind sees the bike.

Once the components (such as headlight, dimmer switch, headlight fuse, are on the paper, draw in only the wires which apply to these, including the grounds. From there, the problem becomes much easier. I often copy the diagram and then add additional items as needed so that I an go back to the simpler one if needed.

Since the intermittent seems not to be addressed by the dimmer switch and since I assume that you have a US or Canadian bike which lacks a headlight off switch, I'd proceed by removing the black wiring plug cover from in front of the gauge pod. Big plastic bucket held by two Phillips screws. From there, begin tugging, wiggling, twisting wiring to see if you can cause the light(s) to either come on or go off. This should help to indicate a loose connection and indicate the location. Many other options but I'd start there.

Do you have a voltmeter and/or test light?

Norm
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-30-2014, 06:02 PM
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turn the key on and start gently pulling harnesses and banging here and there with a rubber mallet. Might find the "soft spot"

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post #4 of 15 Old 08-31-2014, 07:13 AM
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Just another wrinkle; while you're at it, replace the 10-amp headlight fuse with a 15-amp fuse; recommended because . . . sometimes, the dimmer switch connects both HIGH and LOW filaments simultaneously, a condition that may blow the OEM 10-amp fuse and leave you in a world of darkness.

As to the problem, I think cleaning up the headlight fuse connections might solve it; seems like you may have an intermittent "open," or high-resistance connection, in your headlight circuit.

Good wiring diagram: http://www.buttonhome.org/gallery2/m...serialNumber=3
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-03-2014, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys

Hey a bit more info.
If I remember correctly I replaced the fuses with breakers. Anyway when I start the bike everything is fine. After the bike gets hot the headlight goes out. If I stop even for a few minutes the headlights come on again. When the bike gets hot again they go out.. Has anyone had a problem after a few years with breakers being sensitive to the engine heat and shutting down. I think these breakers reset but not positive. I guess if it is the breaker they are. LOL

Anyone have this problem.

Gary
Souderton, Pa.
89 xt350 wish I still had her
05 Suzuki DRZ 400
92 K75s
07 KLR 650
13 Triumph Storm
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-03-2014, 02:07 PM
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Does the headlight only go out when at idle?

If so, you may have one of the signal lights plugged in with wires reversed. This intermittently blows the main fuse on some Gen1 but things stay on from the alternator. Given that you have breakers, the symptoms may match.

FWIW, I'd replace the breakers with fuses, temporarily, to see if that solves the problem and/or if one fuse blows. If you localize to the headlight fuse, you may wish to disconnect circuits until you eliminate the one causing the problem. One can un-pin terminals from the wiring harness plugs to disconnect at various points. I will post some wiring harness information in the next day or two which might help.

I have the wiring harness plugs all identified on a harness photo, and numbered on some bike photos for cross reference.

Check out the wiring pin out (think it's a sticky but that may be on another group where it's stickied) diagrams I posted some time ago for the main plugs in front of the steering head. When dealing with these sorts of problems, I sometimes make up a temporary harness to allow the circuit to be operated directly from the starter relay or other source so can eliminate the bike's wiring while looking.

HIH

Norm
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-03-2014, 02:16 PM
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I don't see the pin outs stickied here so assume it is judged as not worthy. Makes me wonder if the other info is worth posting as it will simply be buried later on. Oh, well someone may find it useful.

FWIW, the breaker idea is a good one for headlight and was common practice for domestic made vehicles for 50 years or so. The idea was that a properly sized breaker would cause the headlights to wink off and on again when not completely shorted to ground. This might provide enough light to avoid an accident. As the breaker (part of the headlight switch) got older and weaker (man, do I know that line) it as common for the breaker to begin cycling under normal loads.

As you suggest, that might be the issue you are experiencing?

Breaker sizing and type is important if one wishes to have the breaker cycle to continue some light. A breaker with manual re-set, of course, will not cycle. Ditto a breaker having too large a heat sink in the reaction mechanism. These have to be correctly selected which is an engineering or lots of research, problem.

I thought of moving to breakers back before HID but the system isn't compatible with HID so dropped the idea.
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-03-2014, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys

Not sure but I think I put the breakers in 5 or 6 years ago. Never had a problem until now. Like I said I think the low beam is burnt out it never comes on. Just assuming it's shot. The high beam will work when the bike is cold but when it's gets hot shuts off. It will not come on again until I stop for a bit and the bike cools. Then when I start it up again the high beam comes on again for a few miles till it gets hot again.

Oh forgot about the idle question. No low beam is out all the time high beam is fine until the engine gets hot. It works at idle.

Gary
Souderton, Pa.
89 xt350 wish I still had her
05 Suzuki DRZ 400
92 K75s
07 KLR 650
13 Triumph Storm

Last edited by thumbs; 09-03-2014 at 02:33 PM.
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-03-2014, 03:05 PM
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Time to get out some tools. ;-)

Remove the flat plastic plate (two bolts) behind the headlight to gain access to the headlight rubber cover boot. This can remain off until you have the issue resolved unless the light coming back into the fairing is a big problem.

It might be that the broken filament is moving and making contact when the bike cools off. Some weird things happen on their own despite that setting them up would tax the best of engineering.

One of the old times on [email protected] mentioned that he intends to use some of the automotive door edging, which I recommend for sealing between the cooling fan should and radiator, to block the light leakage from the black plastic cover plate. He finds the light leaking back into the fairing to be an issue when night riding. I'd not noticed it was an issue but it's on my "To Do List" in order to check out next dark night. Some of the best modifications have been those I was too unobservant to notice on my own.

I sometimes wonder if I'm the least observant person I know.....but then it occurs to be that maybe others are equally unobservant but I haven't noticed.... so many questions, so low and IQ... ;-)
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-03-2014, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normk View Post
I don't see the pin outs stickied here so assume it is judged as not worthy...
Probably a bad assumption. Keeping up with making stickies is a pretty large task; certainly more than the mods can keep up with. Requires that the post, or a request for sticky, gets seen.

The best thing, when you know there's a helpful post that is relevant, is to simply include a link back to it in your response.

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 09-03-2014 at 03:20 PM.
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