Short term suspension adj? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 12 Old 10-19-2014, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow Short term suspension adj?

Going for a ride Tuesday, not ready to grab progressive springs before then, like to reduce the dive as well as lessen the chance of bottoming out on my ride. Probably about 30-50 miles in the dirt around the Cleghorn Ridge, So Cal area(if anyone's in the area and wants to join PM me). I've heard some talk about adding air to the front shocks as well as longer spacers. Anyone have thoughts on doing this as a short term adjustment?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 12:48 AM
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Sorry, but this needed to be in a new thread.

I believe that the valves on the Gen1 fork caps were intended to relieve pressure, not add it. There's nothing wrong with adding some, though. It would have the effect of adding a bit of pre-load.

The stock spacers are easily replaced with PVC tube, too.

Hopefully someone with more Gen1 experience will be along to advise.

Tom

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post #3 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tom. I will pick up the pvc
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 10:51 AM
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Check out this thread. You'll need to get down to post #4 before anything good starts, but you might find it interesting.

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #5 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again Tom, think I will add some air and grab some PVC, open it up and see what's already in there and play with it for a while. Problem is there's not much "legal" dirt nearby to test my adjustments on but I will make do.

As for my rear shock, there is the adjustment nut and lock nut to adjust the spring and a white Hex insert in the bottom of the shock that turns freely, should it do that? Is that an adjustment or some sort of protection to the actual adjustment?

Last edited by Natedog650; 10-20-2014 at 12:20 PM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natedog650 View Post
As for my rear shock, there is the adjustment nut and lock nut to adjust the spring and a white Hex insert in the bottom of the shock that turns freely, should it do that? Is that an adjustment or some sort of protection to the actual adjustment?
Eh? What shock do you have?

The stock shock has a 5-position preload adjuster up at the top and a wheel at the bottom clevis that does rebound. It should have a clip cover over it.

It should have definite clicks. The manual says yo only turn it to the right.

Do you have an aftermarket shock?

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #7 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I'm trying to determine too. Doesn't look like the pics of other stock shocks I've seen but not too familiar with suspension. In fact it's been a long time since I've wrenched on a bike, about as long as it's been since I worked on Tanks for Uncle Sam.

Anyhow, bought this 07 KLR as pre-owned and changing fluids, filters, etc.. but just getting started on any mods, etc... Daily commuter but really bought it for offroad prospect as well.

I've attached pics of my shocks, hope they go through, at work so not the best pics. Trying to determine what the adj screw at the top right is too.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg shock bottom.jpg (133.7 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg upper shock.jpg (72.4 KB, 10 views)

Last edited by Natedog650; 10-20-2014 at 01:41 PM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 02:16 PM
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Yes, that's aftermarket. It looks like a Progressive 465.

Those have a 5-position rebound adjustment.

The best way that I've found to set up a rear shock is to (obviously) adjust the spring to the correct sag and then go find a washboardy road.

Since the only adjustment is rebound, you want to set it so that it is exerting just enough control.

If the rebound is set too stiff the shock will 'pack-up'. What that means is that, after taking a hit, it cannot rebound fast enough to recover it's length. Each successive hit compresses the shock some more until the shock becomes quite compressed and the spring won't allow it to compress any more. As that happens the rear end of the bike sits down. Clearly, that creates far less control and removes any ability to take hits without popping your fillings out of your teeth.

On the washboard road (go on out to Carrizo Plain and get on Soda Lake road - great for this and a fun place to ride). Turn the rebound adjustment to fully on. As you ride at a speed that is comfortable for you, you will find that the shock packs up. Back the rebound off one notch and ride again. Keep it up until the shock doesn't pack-up at your speed. It's a crude method, but you only have five positions, and it works.

As skills increase and you begin to ride faster you may find that you have to re-adjust.

There's always a bit of trade-off. At speeds of 25-70mph on washboard roads I don't feel a thing. The bike just floats over bumps. At less than 25mph the ride is pretty harsh. Meh. My set-up is a Cogent shock with RaceTech emulators and Progressive springs in the front.

You're a leg up on most KLRs with that shock. You bike is worthy of some springs and RaceTech emulators, or perhaps the Cogent inserts (heard good things about them, but have no experience with them).

I won't recommend the Intiminators as I found them to be too fiddly and hard to adjust for what I wanted and needed to do.

Tuning the RaceTechs is very simple, but time consuming and a bit messy, as you have to remove the caps, spacers, and springs to fish them out of the fork to make an adjustment. It takes about three tries to get 'em right.

A call to Rick at Cogent Dynamics might be a good idea. He's good people.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 10-20-2014 at 02:19 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Once again, thank you. As for adjusting the shock, is that the adjustment at the bottom of the shock on the pic I sent you? It seems to turn way to freely, no clicks, etc... or is there another adjustment I need to make? On the top, etc...?
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-20-2014, 02:41 PM
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As far as I know, that is the only shock adjustment, and it is supposed to have clicks. I have no experience with that shock and so am only speaking from what I've heard.

In your picture I can see the numbers and what looks like an index mark. It looks like it might be set to "5".

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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