Re-Raising the Suspension - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 13 Old 04-02-2008, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re-Raising the Suspension

My bike was lowered by the previous owner. Both with links in the rear and moving the forks up in the front. Is there anything in particular I should look for in reversing this procedure. I'll also be switching out the center stand to the taller one i have. I'm assuming the rear is pretty straight forward. But for the front is it simply a matter of loosening the eight bolts that clamp the forks in and sliding the forks back down even with the top tree? (never worked on bikes before, just jeeps) Do the torque specs really need to be adhered to in the Clymer manual? If i could do this safely w/o a torque wrench that would be nice, but If its necessary I guess i will go buy one anyways.
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-02-2008, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wh4tig0t View Post
My bike was lowered by the previous owner. Both with links in the rear and moving the forks up in the front. Is there anything in particular I should look for in reversing this procedure. I'll also be switching out the center stand to the taller one i have. I'm assuming the rear is pretty straight forward. But for the front is it simply a matter of loosening the eight bolts that clamp the forks in and sliding the forks back down even with the top tree? (never worked on bikes before, just jeeps) Do the torque specs really need to be adhered to in the Clymer manual? If i could do this safely w/o a torque wrench that would be nice, but If its necessary I guess i will go buy one anyways.
Unless your elbow is calibrated like mine is I'd recommend a torque wrench.

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post #3 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 09:11 AM
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Yeah torque specs are definately there for a reason. I either way over tighten a bolt or under tighten and usually will cause a problem somewhere down the line. If $$$ is an issue for you like it is for me, I picked up my torque wrenches at Harbor Freight. Some my feel the chinese brands might not be calibrated as good as the hi dollar stuff, but I have been using them for decades without issue. Alot of the smaller bolts will use an "INCH" pound setting as opposed to a "FOOT" pound setting. If you by an INCH pound torque wrench, make sure it is one that has a bottom setting of around 20 inch pounds. A lot of brands of INCH pound torque wrenches only start at "200" which is way too hi. To give an example all the engine case bolts are only torqued to around 69-72 inch pounds. Your Doohickey when adjusted should NEVER be tightened any tighter than 72 inch pounds with an after market doo installed, and only about 60 inch pounds with the factory doo. The reason for this is that the shoulder on the doohickey adjuster bolt can press into and deform the doohickey thus not allowing it to adjust correctly if at all. Even my doo upon inspection when removed showed I had originally tightened the bolt too tight and had deformed it enough to where it would not move freely when loosened. OK I know I am ramblin, but just trying to get my opinion on correctly torquing bolts.

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post #4 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 10:36 AM
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I agree about the HarborFreight torque wrenches. I bought a 1/4 and 3/8, took them to my friends shop (commercial auto repair - not his backyard!) and checked agains his several SnapOn and S&K and the differences were not significant.

Just remember to return them to zero (the click type) before storing.

If I were going to use them a lot, I would get the name brands tho.
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post #5 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 11:16 AM
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Hey Dx, don't forget to lower your torque wrenches back to zero when your done so you don't keep tension on the spring and mess up the calibration. My high dollar foot lbs snap on has a lever that releases the tension. The inch lb from HF worked great for the doo. thanks for the tip and the help. Paulo
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post #6 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome theres 2 HF's in San Antonio. looks like thats where I'm going after class. Is there any trick to sliding the front forks back down?
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post #7 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 12:39 PM
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Northern Tool on 410 at Cherryhill(I think - working from memory here) will probably have the same type at about the same prices if it's closer to you. You need to know about Northern anyway if you're going to start wrenching.
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post #8 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 01:22 PM
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HF TIP ALWAYS go to the HF website and print out the prices on the net because a lot of the times they are lower than the in store price and if you print it out they will honor the net price. I just did that and got the inch lb torque wrench for 14.99 and I have the coupon for the ft lbs for 9.99. I don't need the ft lbs since I have already have a snap on. Also, sign up for their mailing list and they send 15% off coupons often. So I actually got the inch lb for like 11 and change.

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Last edited by Paulo888; 04-03-2008 at 05:25 PM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 02:11 PM
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The easiest way to get the forks back down is to raise the bike off the floor with an ATV jack... Once again Harbor Freight to the rescue on that item. Once the front wheel is off the floor you can loosen each fork and slowly slide them down till they are flush. Keep just enough tension on the screws so the forks don't just fall down. You might want to use a couple of tie down straps to help stabilize the bike on the stand.

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post #10 of 13 Old 04-03-2008, 02:18 PM
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I've found it saves time to call the HF store to check their stock on an item, particularly if it's a coupon or good sale item. Just give them the item number printed on the coupon or catalog.

If I go into a HF just to "look around" I generally wind up buying lots of stuff I really don't need but might someday. Kinda like going to the grocery store halfdrunk and hungry.
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