Headlight fuse - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Souderton, Pa
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Headlight fuse

Hey does anyone know the proper size fuse to put in the headlight circuit? I have been running a 10amp resettable fuse and it has been fine for years. Recently it has been tripping after about 20 minutes of riding. When I stop for a short period the light comes back on. Resetable...... Now I put a amp meter across the the fuse contacts and it is pulling 10 to 10.1 amps. Just wondering if this is just about what the headlight circuit should pull. It could be that the fuse is getting old and reacting to the amperage to fast. Doesn't seem like a short although it could be.

What are you guys running in your headlight circuits?

thanks

Gary
Souderton, Pa.
89 xt350 wish I still had her
05 Suzuki DRZ 400
92 K75s
07 KLR 650
13 Triumph Storm
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post #2 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 04:43 PM
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Thumbs,
Your single bulb headlight should only pull about 4.3-5 amps.

When I have accidently 'centered' my dimmer switch, couple times over the years, it not only blows the fuse, but starts to Melt The Wires, and the fuse box.

10 amp fuse is Correct.
Best find out what is going on, before you have an electrical Fire.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 05:21 PM
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Maybe this countermeasure is not unlike using a rubber glove for a leaky fountain pen, but . . . on a Generation 1, some substitute a 15-amp fuse for the 10-amp OEM headlight fuse to counteract the intermittent dual-filament activation that might occur with the dimmer switch.

10-amp is indeed the "correct" size, and . . . professional rider, closed course, do not try this at home, etc.
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post #4 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah there is a problem. I took the headlight out and it still draws 10.4 amps. That should be an open circuit. Theres a shot somewhere. I tried it again and the fuse is gettin pretty warm. For now I'll just keep the fuse out of the light and shut the headlight circuit down..

Gary
Souderton, Pa.
89 xt350 wish I still had her
05 Suzuki DRZ 400
92 K75s
07 KLR 650
13 Triumph Storm
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post #5 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 08:35 PM
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Thumbs,
Do I understand, 10.4 amps with the headlight bulb Disconnected?????????????
Or do both filaments Operate Independently? Or both ON? All the time?
Or one shorted to the Other?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 10-21-2014 at 08:38 PM.
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post #6 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yes with the headlight out across the fuse connectons running the amps through the meter she will read 10.4amps. I should think that should be an open circuit.

I did a couple of things.

With the headlight in, fuse out and running the amp meter across the fuse contacts with the amps going through the meter she read 10.4amps.

With the headlight in, fuse in and wrapping the claws of the meter around the hot wire I got 11.3 amps.

With the headlight out,fuse out and running the amps throught the meter I got 10.4amps

I don't think this is a switch position problem. I can flick the switch and the results are the same. With the fuse in and the headlight in I can switch between high and low beam. I can feel the circuit braker gettin pretty warm. Good thing she's workin or I would have had a problem for sure.

Gary
Souderton, Pa.
89 xt350 wish I still had her
05 Suzuki DRZ 400
92 K75s
07 KLR 650
13 Triumph Storm

Last edited by thumbs; 10-21-2014 at 08:54 PM.
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post #7 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 09:12 PM
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When the Headlight fuse BLOWS at Night, IT IS amazing How well a R.H. turn signal, lights up the DARK road-way, in a CORNER.
Ask me, How I know?

On the following straight-away, I could see 10-12 delineare post Reflectors.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumbs View Post
Yes with the headlight out across the fuse connectons running the amps through the meter she will read 10.4amps. I should think that should be an open circuit.
I was going to make a remark about Mr. Kirchoff, but more usefully . . . I gather you're using a clamp-on ammeter, right, thumbs?

If so, which wire are you sampling? Looks like [EDIT: Thanks, Normk!] BLUE/WHITE is the one you want, to me; BROWN involves all switched voltage load, I think.

RED/BLACK (HI) and RED/YELLOW (LO) beam wire readings would be interesting. At 12 volts, a 50-amp bulb shouldn't draw more than about 4.6 amps (if Mr. Ohm was being straight with us).

Last edited by Damocles; 10-22-2014 at 08:07 PM.
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post #9 of 58 Old 10-21-2014, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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I will have to check it out tomorrow. However I do know the fuse is getting hot with all in tact, lightbulb in and fuse in. Also the resetable fuse is turning off and after I shut the ignition off for a short while all is back on again. I see what your saying though Not shure if the hot line goes to a relay or not. But I am reading amps not volts.

Gary
Souderton, Pa.
89 xt350 wish I still had her
05 Suzuki DRZ 400
92 K75s
07 KLR 650
13 Triumph Storm
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post #10 of 58 Old 10-22-2014, 11:16 AM
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You need to sample the Brown wire at the Headlight Fuse, not the White wire which is the battery power to the system. The White wire (and Main fuse) only samples current flow into and out of the battery so will show the total system load only while engine is not running.

With engine running, the VRR White wire provides the power to the system and this connects to the White wire at Junction #2. For this reason, current flow in the Main Fuse will be in either direction depending on whether battery is powering, or being charged, from the system.

One needs to be certain of the circuit being measured.

First thing I would question is the meter calibration.

What Wattage is the Headlight bulb? Stock is 55 or 60 Watt but many install 100 Watt which will about double the draw.

Are you able to check the current flow through the headlight bulb? What is the current flow according to your meter? That should provide a calibration indicator.

If you do have high current or any significant current in the Headlight Fuse circuit with the Headlight out, then some investigation is obviously required.

First thing in that regards is two question whether the wiring is stock?
If the harness has the Brown Wire Modification, the Headlight is not powered by the Headlight Fuse, but rather only from the Main Fuse.

I'm certain that you already know this but for someone following the thread which does not, a brief description of the powering of the headlight:

With engine not running, the bike is powered from the battery, through the Main Fuse by way of the White Wire which powers some components with key off, and powers the Ignition Switch. When engine starts (assuming sufficient RPM) the White Wire is also powered by the VRR but the effect is the same in so far as the White Wire is concerned beyond the Junction #2.

Power from the White Wire to the Ignition Switch which powers the Brown wire to the Headlight and most other components switched by the Ignition Switch. The Brown Wire powers Horn and several other components, then all the way back to the Fuses to power the Headlight Fuse then forward through the Blue/White to the Dimmer Switch.

If you would like some suggestions as to diagnosis, I'm happy to try to help.
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