Fuel Valve Diaphram Trouble - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #1 of 11 Old 11-03-2014, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Valve Diaphram Trouble

'01 KLR 650. Diapham leaking fuel. Took valve assy. off bike to dealer. They wanted to sell me the entire valve assy.. I think gasahol is the problem and I didn't want the problem to re-occur. Instead I ordered a regular fuel-valve from e-bay. just an on/off/res valve with no diaphram. I installed it and plugged the diahpram vacuum line on the carb. Bike won't run. It tries to start but not run but for a second....like its not getting fuel. I know the valve is open and fuel is getting to the carb.....but maybe the problem is that you have to have the vacuum open and, if so...that means buying the Kawasaki fuel valve assy. and waiting for it to start leaking again? Or...am I just overlooking something......? Thaks for you help!
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post #2 of 11 Old 11-03-2014, 05:48 PM
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Often, as the diaphragm degrades, it sheds particles. Those particles can clog the carburetor. In a bad case, they can clog the fuel line, too.

Carefully pull the bowl off. Make sure it is full of fuel (to prove that the petcock is working and the carb is getting fuel).

Look for some black stuff in the bowl. If it is there, that's a good sign that you've got some junk in the carb.

If the idle circuit is clear, the bike should at least start and idle. Start by clearing out the idle circuit and see if things get better.

Exactly what petcock did you buy? Could it have had some sort of cover over the intake?

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 11-03-2014 at 05:51 PM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 11-03-2014, 07:55 PM
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And for goodness sake install a fuel filter man.
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-03-2014, 08:17 PM
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Unpopular as the concept might be, . . . replacement OEM petcock components are available from Kawasaki!

A vacuum-actuated petcock doesn't send me, screaming, from the room. Nothing against manually-actuated petcocks, have 'em on my KLR250 and KLF300 (ATV).
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post #5 of 11 Old 11-03-2014, 11:30 PM
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Pull the fuel hose from the carb and put it into a container. Open the petcock and make sure that it will flow a couple of cups full in a minute. If it doesn't continue to flow, there's your problem, petcock.

If it does flow well, reconnect the fuel hose to the carb. and open the bowl drain to make sure that it will continue to flow for a couple of minutes. It needs to flow more than the engine can use but it's not a big requirement under low power.

If it doesn't continue to flow, there's a blockage in the carb fuel inlet or needle & seat.

If it flows well from the bowl, drain, you will need to remove the plastic choke "nut" so it doesn't break, then swing the carb bowl to the right side and pull the screws to drop the bowl and check for blockage.

That's how I would proceed.

As for inline filter: some have had success but be advised that the KLR has a very low fuel head (fuel level above the carb) so not much pressure to move fuel through the filter. Likely best to avoid a paper filter in favor of a screen or sintered metal filter.

The fuel outlet has a decent screen which works well enough for most people.

I recommend that you get this problem sorted before adding the variable of another such as the filter.

Diaphragm kits are available rather than replacing the automatic vacuum petcock.
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-04-2014, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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I installed an in-line filter a LONG time ago. My question deals with blocking off the vacuum line that goes from the carb to the fuel valve...it operates the diaphram....and installing a plain 'ol ordinary fuel shutoff valve without the diaphram. I did this and have trouble getting bike to run......
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-04-2014, 12:28 PM
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I tried to address that in the post above. Do you have fuel flows, etc.?

If not clear enough, someone will be able to better explain and I will try again.
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-04-2014, 12:41 PM
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me262 -

Assuming that you didn't have problems before other than a crapped out vacuum petcock, if you installed a standard petcock, like the one for a Raptor 660, and put a cap on the vacuum port next to the carb it should all be good. If you did something else that I haven't picked up on, then Norm's advice is spot-on.

I do have one question, though. I have received new petcocks that had protective sleeves over the inlets to protect the fine mesh screen from damage during shipping. Is there any possibility yours came with such a screen protector and you didn't notice it?
Those protectors will keep gas from flowing into the petcock.

Tom

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 11-04-2014 at 12:48 PM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-05-2014, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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Have fuel flow. Maybe its just an idle jet issue. will start, but sputters and backfires. Thought it may be due to plugging fuel petcock vacuum on carb, but maybe not......

No shipping protector on new valve.....not an issue.....
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-05-2014, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by me262 View Post
.............. Thought it may be due to plugging fuel petcock vacuum on carb, but maybe not......
.....
To answer this question, the vacuum line that went to the original vacuum operated petcock should be plugged when a non-vacuum operated petcock is used. This prevents air from leaking into the intake manifold through an open vacuum line. You were correct to plug the vacuum line.
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