Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chilliwack, BC, Canada
Depending on how one bypassed the neutral switch, the neutral light may be on. I concur with Tom that the point to begin is to consult the wiring diagram. If you would like help in reviewing, PM a link to your wiring diagram and will have a look.
The coolant light...is that an overflow tank level, engine coolant temperature warning?
If it is a warning light for over temperature, in place of a temperature gauge, I recommend unplugging the connector from the switch (sender) which is likely in place of the thermistor type sender in the head of our models. If the switch is remaining closed rather than remaining open at temperatures below over heating, then the light will be on. Unplugging will turn off the light in this case as a test of the cause.
I wouldn't simply pull the switch for testing until this is determined as the problem may be wiring and the testing excercise will be an extensive waste of effort.
FWIW, one may not be able to cause a temperature switch to operate by placing into boiling water since water boils at around 100 C/212 F, below the temperature at which most switches operate. If testing one of these, or checking calibration of a guage type (thermistor or other variable) sender, it is usually required that one use a fluid with higher boiling temperature. I find some coolant mix does the job in many cases but sometimes straight antifreeze (undiluted) or oil are required for higher temperature units.
I don't know if the harness pin outs and other info for the "regular" KLR are of value but may be some similarities. One may need to disconnect various plug connector "pins" in order to localize the problem.