idiot lights stay on - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 11-10-2014, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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idiot lights stay on

Hey people, new to the forum and looking for some guidance.
I have a 2003 aussie KLR650. When I bought it the water and neutral lights stayed on. Don't quite know how it was missed by me and my friend but anyway....
It also has at least the kickstand and the clutch switch bypassed.
I have done a lot of reading a while back and cant find the exact thread where it said if you wired it wrong this would happen.
I am aware that the water light will come on with the neutral light as a form of self test. Is that correct?
Thoughts anyone?
Should I just wire it back up and start from there or is there a wire I should look at first? I was sure there was a wire if not grounded properly would cause this but cant find the offending article anywhere so maybe not so sure?
Help please
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post #2 of 29 Old 11-11-2014, 12:17 AM
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I'm just gonna take a shot in the dark, but you might want to un- bypass those, Kawasaki put them on there for a good reason, not to just waste their money
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post #3 of 29 Old 11-11-2014, 12:34 AM
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I wonder how different the Australian models are.

The North American version has no coolant warning light. There's a temperature gauge. We do have a blue light - it's the high beam indicator (erm?)....

I've never heard of a clutch or side stand bypass causing the neutral light to come on, but again, the Australian wiring may be different. Have you pulled the switch and tested it to be sure it is not failed?

Tom

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post #4 of 29 Old 11-11-2014, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Agree to a point about the safety switches. If I had to live with the neutral switch, not so worried
The footstand one I can do without. Never had one on my old bikes and from what I can make out from research is that they are the first thing to let you down inconveniently.
As this will do quite a bit of bush work and the odd long ride, i do not want to get caught with something so silly.
The neutral and side stand switch are connected somewhat though I believe so one begets the other.
As for the aussie vs US versions, something tells me they are the same, but I will defer to the experts on that one.
Keep it coming everybody
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post #5 of 29 Old 11-11-2014, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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As an aside my model has no water gauge, just the light. A very basic gauge cluster, speedo only.
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post #6 of 29 Old 11-11-2014, 09:12 AM
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Gah! I get it now. You have a "C" model. We didn't get them in the states. It has a small tank, about 4 gallons, right?

I haven't got a schematic.

Simple test - remove the connectors from the switches - the lights should go off.

If not, pop the neutral switch out and test it separately. Clicky-clicky.

Pull the overtemp switch from the head. With it out of the bike and cold it should show open, or off. Infinite ohms. It should close somewhere in the neighborhood of 105-110°C. Toss it in the oven at 120°C.

Make sure the hardware works before chasing wiring issues.

If push comes to shove, see if you can get in contact with this guy. He has a manual for the C.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 11-11-2014 at 09:29 AM. Reason: °F > °C
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post #7 of 29 Old 11-11-2014, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah that tank capacity sounds about right.
I think I will have to start from scratch. I was trying to cheat a little but might just have to start at the start. I was pretty confident that it was the bypassing of the switches that was causing the lights to come on though as I have read that online as described at the start of the thread.
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post #8 of 29 Old 11-11-2014, 03:00 PM
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Yeah, that wouldn't happen on the A Model, but without seeing the C model's schematic I couldn't say.

I've been looking for a C model manual and schematic for a long time, but no joy.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #9 of 29 Old 11-12-2014, 11:13 AM
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Depending on how one bypassed the neutral switch, the neutral light may be on. I concur with Tom that the point to begin is to consult the wiring diagram. If you would like help in reviewing, PM a link to your wiring diagram and will have a look.

The coolant light...is that an overflow tank level, engine coolant temperature warning?

If it is a warning light for over temperature, in place of a temperature gauge, I recommend unplugging the connector from the switch (sender) which is likely in place of the thermistor type sender in the head of our models. If the switch is remaining closed rather than remaining open at temperatures below over heating, then the light will be on. Unplugging will turn off the light in this case as a test of the cause.

I wouldn't simply pull the switch for testing until this is determined as the problem may be wiring and the testing excercise will be an extensive waste of effort.

FWIW, one may not be able to cause a temperature switch to operate by placing into boiling water since water boils at around 100 C/212 F, below the temperature at which most switches operate. If testing one of these, or checking calibration of a guage type (thermistor or other variable) sender, it is usually required that one use a fluid with higher boiling temperature. I find some coolant mix does the job in many cases but sometimes straight antifreeze (undiluted) or oil are required for higher temperature units.

I don't know if the harness pin outs and other info for the "regular" KLR are of value but may be some similarities. One may need to disconnect various plug connector "pins" in order to localize the problem.
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post #10 of 29 Old 11-12-2014, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Gah! I get it now. You have a "C" model. We didn't get them in the states. It has a small tank, about 4 gallons, right?

I haven't got a schematic.

Make sure the hardware works before chasing wiring issues.

If push comes to shove, see if you can get in contact with this guy. He has a manual for the C.

Tom
Tom,
I'm just guessing that the wiring for the Neutral light/Coolant temp light is possibly / probably similar to the 1993 KLX650-C1, USA model.
As I remember it had a coolant temp light which DID Come-ON, in Neutral.

Any chance ya' got a service manual for that model?

pdwestman
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