Always on front signal lights- improved - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-21-2014, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Always on front signal lights- improved

Do you ever envy those who have to work at being foolish? My natural talent in that regards pulls me up frequently. ;-)

Some will recall the always on front turn signals, or running light modification I posted for Gen1. In the modification, I powered the LED panels by way of a small wire from ignition switched power which was snaked into the signal light housing. In the original modification this wire was powered from an ignition switched circuit such as main power relay, horn brown wire, etc.

I'm still face palming over how dumb I can be...anyone see why?

I just moved the power wire from an ignition switched power source to the City Light Brown wire. Face palm!

Now, of course, these front LED panels are on with the key as before, flash as before. The difference, is that the front LED panels/front signal lights are also on in the ignition switch park position making the feature more versatile. Having front park lights which only add 2/10 amp of drain is, IMO, a no brainer.

You can now return to your normal alert mental state and I'll go back to face palming.....
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-21-2014, 07:40 PM
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Question Norm,
In the Current wiring method, do the Front Running lights, Stay ON if the headlight fuse 'burns out', on an otherwise Stock Bike???

I know you have 'modified' your other wiring!

I have been in a corner when the headlight fuse burned. Amazing 'How far' a RH turn signal illuminates a Pitch Black roadway!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-21-2014, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Stock wiring, the Headlight Fuse is off the "end" of the Brown Wire. This means that blowing the Headlight Fuse, takes out the Headlight but leaves power on to signals, horn and so on.

Going in series from the Battery, one goes: Battery +, Starter Cable, Starter Relay, Main Fuse, White Wire, Ignition Switch, Brown Wire.

Going from the Ignition switch, the following components branch from the Brown Wire, in order: Front Brake Light Switch; Horn; Brown/White Wire to Tach, Neutral Indicator Light, Water Temperature Gauge; Brown/White Wire to VRR reference; Turn Signal Relay; Rear Brake Light Switch; Headlight Fuse.

Headlight Fuse powers: Blue/White Wire to High/Low Beam Dimmer Switch.

In this order one will note that shorting the Headlight will blow the Headlight Fuse and take the Headlight off the circuit. Note also that all the components which I listed before the Headlight Fuse will remain on. This means that the signals, Horn and so on will keep working.

Consider your own priorities, do you prefer to have Headlight or Horn? Headlight or Signal Lights? Headlight or Brake Lights?

If any of the components listed before the Headlight Fuse were to short, the Headlight Fuse is not overloaded. What is overloaded and blown is the Main Fuse. When the Main Fuse blows, power is cut to both these and the Headlight. In most cases, the alternator will continue to provide power because the VRR White Wire joins the White Wire between the Main Fuse and the Ignition Switch. This is a thorough corn-ball set-up IMO but more on that later.

My bike has the Brown Wire Modification which is posted to several sites on the net. Think it's on Mark's site and certain it's here.

What this mod does is to disconnect the Brown Wire from the Ignition Switch and connect the Ignition Switch end of the Brown Wire to the Blue/White (Headlight) Wire. I've been doing this modification for years because it powers the headlight directly from the Main Fuse so shorting the Headlight blows the Main Fuse rather than the Headlight Fuse. Obviously, we want a fuse in the Headlight circuit so it's simply a matter of which one.

If one considers this change, the order of current flow places the components such as Horn, Signals, etc., after the Headlight Fuse since the circuit is now powered from the other end. This will blow the Headlight Fuse (not better called the "Everything But the Headlight Fuse") but leave the Headlight powered by the Main Fuse.

One of these days I plan to draw up an improved wiring harness for the KLR but may compromise in one regards with one more modification to the original harness.

Now certain if anyone is following this but here's a scenario which some will have experienced and will illustrate my concern:

Reverse the Grey and Black/Yellow Right Signal Light wires and/or Green/Black Yellow Left Signal Light wires on any light. Although the signal lights are supposed to require the Black/Yellow ground wire and that the light won't operate or won't operate reliably with the Black/Yellow disconnected, the mounting stud does provide ground at times.

One can try this experiment which took me some time to work out the first time: swap the signal wires on any light as described and go riding. All is well until you shut off the bike. Then nothing, no power to anything, no cranking, nada. Nice!

Of course, unless you've done another of my favorite mods, you need to remove Tupperware and seat to check the Main Fuse. I relocate the fuses by installing weatherproof ATC fuses near the Starter Relay so they are accessible. If we go riding and you blow a fuse, I'll harp on you like your ex-wife with six drinks under her belt. ;-)

What has happened? The signal light has power to the light housing rather than to the insulated button in the socket. All works fine until the housing makes contact with the mounting stud inside due to vibration. This blows the Main Fuse but the bike keeps going until shut off because, as described above, the alternator is powering the system.

A Gen2 might quit if loads are too high and RPM (idle most likely) is too low which makes me like the Gen2 system less than Gen1.

Bike won't start. Good stuff if you stall the bike at night in the left turn lane. No lights, no crank and sitting in the middle of the intersection with texting idiots about to roar through on the cross when light changes. What to do? Jump off and push like hell?

With the Brown Wire Modification, one will still have headlight.

I plan to either change the wiring to place the Starter Relay circuit before the "Everything But the Headlight Fuse" but may simply install a direct push button for the Starter Relay, placed underneath.

That way one could fire it up and get away with Headlight on all the time.

Probably everyone has nodded off long before this but that's all I can do. ;-)
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-21-2014, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Wish you were closer, Paul. I'd steal your bike and do the always on front signals & add bark buster lights. That really lights up things ahead.

I love these LED panels 40 mm x 60 mm x 4 mm and $2.00 each delivered:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251374440081...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Greatest thing since sliced bread as come with adapters for dome lights on older vehicles + fit most newer ones. Amazing how much better is the light inside a vehicle. Reminds me that I got a bunch more and need to put two into the front roof light of my wife's Xterra. Off to do that.

There's a tiny bit smaller version which Mike found but keeps forgetting to send me the link (good way to discover if he sees this thread as I'll get an indignant email since I've lost the link he sent before. Never admitting that though. ;-) )

I'm thinking the slightly smaller ones will just slip into Gen2 front lights to do the same thing.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-22-2014, 10:00 AM
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I put one of those panels in the trunk of my new car. What a wimpy light they had in there from the factory. This is so much better.

My Kaw Barn - 2004 KLR, 2006 Concours (sold), 1997 Bayou 400.

"It's a friggen motorcycle, it's not supposed to be comfortable, quiet or safe. The wind noise is supposed to hurt your ears, the seat should be hard and riding it should make you shit your pants every now and then. "

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post #6 of 7 Old 11-22-2014, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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I just ordered some other lights to see if they will fit into Gen2 front signal lights. It would be cool to be able to do an inexpensive modification in the same way as the always on Gen1. Anyone happen to know of some inexpensive ones?
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-11-2014, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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These lights were intended to try in Gen2 front signals for always on modification but fit into the front dome lights on DW's Xterra so just ordered another pair to try in a Gen2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151130881880...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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