Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chilliwack, BC, Canada
Stock wiring, the Headlight Fuse is off the "end" of the Brown Wire. This means that blowing the Headlight Fuse, takes out the Headlight but leaves power on to signals, horn and so on.
Going in series from the Battery, one goes: Battery +, Starter Cable, Starter Relay, Main Fuse, White Wire, Ignition Switch, Brown Wire.
Going from the Ignition switch, the following components branch from the Brown Wire, in order: Front Brake Light Switch; Horn; Brown/White Wire to Tach, Neutral Indicator Light, Water Temperature Gauge; Brown/White Wire to VRR reference; Turn Signal Relay; Rear Brake Light Switch; Headlight Fuse.
Headlight Fuse powers: Blue/White Wire to High/Low Beam Dimmer Switch.
In this order one will note that shorting the Headlight will blow the Headlight Fuse and take the Headlight off the circuit. Note also that all the components which I listed before the Headlight Fuse will remain on. This means that the signals, Horn and so on will keep working.
Consider your own priorities, do you prefer to have Headlight or Horn? Headlight or Signal Lights? Headlight or Brake Lights?
If any of the components listed before the Headlight Fuse were to short, the Headlight Fuse is not overloaded. What is overloaded and blown is the Main Fuse. When the Main Fuse blows, power is cut to both these and the Headlight. In most cases, the alternator will continue to provide power because the VRR White Wire joins the White Wire between the Main Fuse and the Ignition Switch. This is a thorough corn-ball set-up IMO but more on that later.
My bike has the Brown Wire Modification which is posted to several sites on the net. Think it's on Mark's site and certain it's here.
What this mod does is to disconnect the Brown Wire from the Ignition Switch and connect the Ignition Switch end of the Brown Wire to the Blue/White (Headlight) Wire. I've been doing this modification for years because it powers the headlight directly from the Main Fuse so shorting the Headlight blows the Main Fuse rather than the Headlight Fuse. Obviously, we want a fuse in the Headlight circuit so it's simply a matter of which one.
If one considers this change, the order of current flow places the components such as Horn, Signals, etc., after the Headlight Fuse since the circuit is now powered from the other end. This will blow the Headlight Fuse (not better called the "Everything But the Headlight Fuse") but leave the Headlight powered by the Main Fuse.
One of these days I plan to draw up an improved wiring harness for the KLR but may compromise in one regards with one more modification to the original harness.
Now certain if anyone is following this but here's a scenario which some will have experienced and will illustrate my concern:
Reverse the Grey and Black/Yellow Right Signal Light wires and/or Green/Black Yellow Left Signal Light wires on any light. Although the signal lights are supposed to require the Black/Yellow ground wire and that the light won't operate or won't operate reliably with the Black/Yellow disconnected, the mounting stud does provide ground at times.
One can try this experiment which took me some time to work out the first time: swap the signal wires on any light as described and go riding. All is well until you shut off the bike. Then nothing, no power to anything, no cranking, nada. Nice!
Of course, unless you've done another of my favorite mods, you need to remove Tupperware and seat to check the Main Fuse. I relocate the fuses by installing weatherproof ATC fuses near the Starter Relay so they are accessible. If we go riding and you blow a fuse, I'll harp on you like your ex-wife with six drinks under her belt. ;-)
What has happened? The signal light has power to the light housing rather than to the insulated button in the socket. All works fine until the housing makes contact with the mounting stud inside due to vibration. This blows the Main Fuse but the bike keeps going until shut off because, as described above, the alternator is powering the system.
A Gen2 might quit if loads are too high and RPM (idle most likely) is too low which makes me like the Gen2 system less than Gen1.
Bike won't start. Good stuff if you stall the bike at night in the left turn lane. No lights, no crank and sitting in the middle of the intersection with texting idiots about to roar through on the cross when light changes. What to do? Jump off and push like hell?
With the Brown Wire Modification, one will still have headlight.
I plan to either change the wiring to place the Starter Relay circuit before the "Everything But the Headlight Fuse" but may simply install a direct push button for the Starter Relay, placed underneath.
That way one could fire it up and get away with Headlight on all the time.
Probably everyone has nodded off long before this but that's all I can do. ;-)