Big bolt on top of steering column - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
1987 to 2007 Wrenching & Mods For maintaining, repair or modifications of Generation 1 KLR's. 2007 and earlier.

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post #11 of 23 Old 08-27-2010, 06:29 PM
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Steering stem nut is 36 ft-pounds.

Upper and lower pinch bolts are 15 ft-pounds, tightened alternately to insure even clamping.

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

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post #12 of 23 Old 08-27-2010, 06:40 PM
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Thanks Tom, you have been so helpful, and Ive only been on here for 2 days.
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post #13 of 23 Old 08-27-2010, 07:29 PM
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Thanks Tom, you have been so helpful, and Ive only been on here for 2 days.
He's witty, too.




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post #14 of 23 Old 08-27-2010, 07:49 PM
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occ -

You're welcome!

And forgive my manners - welcome to the forum!

LJ's right, I've got my wits about me. Mostly on the floor. And I see some over there in the garage, the dog's burying some of them in the garden again, and the rest of them are wherever I left my glasses...

Tom

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“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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post #15 of 23 Old 08-27-2010, 08:26 PM
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Wanderer dearest brother of the wind and dirt,

I too have heard of this "washing" ritual that some riders exercise.

It seems to involve a solvent of some sort to remove the protective coating
from the motorcycle both to improve its appearance and also to check vital
fasteners for proper torque and/ or them just still being there.

I tried this once and found a motorcycle where a pile of mud with tires once stood.
It was black and shiny and hardly recognizable until reapplying the protective coating
of mud. It once again looks like its real self.

LOL,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap

[I][B]This is my son, with whom I am well pleased."[/B][/I] ----God
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post #16 of 23 Old 08-29-2010, 07:12 PM
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Smooth as silk over the bumps now....and i can almost see out of my mirrors on the highway
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post #17 of 23 Old 08-30-2010, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapBassTurd View Post
Wanderer dearest brother of the wind and dirt,

I too have heard of this "washing" ritual that some riders exercise.

It seems to involve a solvent of some sort to remove the protective coating
from the motorcycle both to improve its appearance and also to check vital
fasteners for proper torque and/ or them just still being there.

I tried this once and found a motorcycle where a pile of mud with tires once stood.
It was black and shiny and hardly recognizable until reapplying the protective coating
of mud. It once again looks like its real self.

LOL,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap
cheep - weren't you the one that posted the 'recipe' for the simple green wash down? i have have to say we think alike though, had my bike 4 yrs and only washed it once to get the pig stink off it, lol. came off a hog farm, hence the name 'stinky'
as far as the steering nut or whatever it is called, my wife's klr had a loose one, and i could hear it clunk every time you clamped up the front brakes.
took me a minute to find it, but it is a very distinctive clunk. does the bent wrench with the doohickey kit from EM fit that nut? just a thought.
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post #18 of 23 Old 10-28-2011, 08:19 PM
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Thanks Tom! I'm gonna try this tonite!

Hopefully (at 24700 mi) the races & brgs aren't toasted... they are definitely loose.. but I would think that even when loose, I'd have some clunkyness (is that a word?) in the steering if they were messed up..

If they are, I'll just tear it all down and replace with the caged set-up..
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post #19 of 23 Old 04-28-2020, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DXKLR View Post
Actually you don't have to do 'all' that stuff to check the head bearing. Here is the step by step procedure that works like a charm.

Head Bearing Adjustment Procedure
The Patman
KLRWORLD.COM

The upper t-clamp sits on top of the spanner nut that adjusts the bearings.

To do this right, the front wheel should be off the ground, so you can adjust it properly. The spec is: the bars, when pushed with your back of your pinky finger should not flop over to one side or the other, if they do, the bearing is too loose. If you can't push the bars from one side to the other with your eyelid, the bearing is too tight. Now that’s a narrow range.
It's also the difference between headshake, and the ditch. Too loose and you'll ruin the bearings, and be prone to headshake and a crash, and too tight and you'll be prone to the bearings getting hot, swelling up, and not turning...generally this happens exactly when you need too.
So. Ready?
Let's go.
Everyone take a deep breath, and with feet shoulder width...oh...no...wait a minute, that's another training session...


Loosen two right and two left upper t-clamp fork tube pinch bolts.
( the t-clamp wont move down if the fork pinch bolts are tight, it needs to slide down on top of the spanner nut after you adjust it, in order to KEEP it tight ...the steering stem nut is what will pull it down...provided that you loosened the pinch bolts on the fork tubes uppers only of course. The dealer often misses this stem and the bearing adjustment comes loose again in about 450 miles )

Mark the bars down at the clamps so you can put them back to a position that will never feel exactly like they were yesterday.

You may have to loosen or remove the bar clamps and lay the bars down on the tank ( use a big fluffy towel to prevent scratches, and to keep the bars from flopping around )

loosen the top nut a turn or two ( steering stem nut )

Use a brass drift...er...I mean a flat blade screwdriver, and a small mallet, to turn the spanner nut ( under the t-clamp ) to tighten it.

Go a little at a time until a slight resistance is felt when moving the front wheel side to side ( don't screw around and knock the handlebars off the tank ! )

I use one clamp and stick the bars back on for a second to check the bearing tightness.

You should have to push the bars from one side to the other with the bearing at the proper tightness.

But just barely.

In other words, the bars shouldn't FALL from one side to the other when you give them a slight push. If they do, tighten it some more and try again. When it gets to where you have to use the pressure of your pinky finger to push the bars from one side to the other ( I use my eyebrow to push with ) but it wont FLOP over, you've got it.

Note: one side will have enough "cable drag" to make it a little harder to push than the other. I set mine so that NEITHER side ( that is going left or right ) will flop over on it's own. WARNING: If ya get it too tight you WILL crash. Remember JUST TIGHT ENOUGH TO NOT FALL OVER TO THE SIDE BY ITSELF.

At this point use the steering stem nut, to pull the upper t-clamp down on top of the spanner nut and washer assy. ( the washer has two little "teeth" that when squeezed by the upper t-clamp, will hold the bearing adjustment ( spanner nut ) where you put it.)

As you tighten the steering stem nut, tap the two pinch clamps on each side of the t-clamp to help it slide down the fork tubes, and on top of the spanner nut.

Check it again for "not too tight but wont flopedness".

Check it again for "not too tight but wont flopedness".

Check it again for "not too tight but wont flopedness".




If you find it's too tight. loosen the upper steering stem nut a half a turn, use the screwdriver and mallet to knock the spanner nut loose by about one half of one quater of one millionth of an inch... ( an eigth of a turn...or less ) then retighten the steering stem nut to specs and try it again for the "not too tight, but wont flop over" test.

It should WANT TO flop over, but it's just a bit to tight to fall over on it's own.

Tighten the pinch bolts on the fork tubes.

Adjust the bars back to where you think you had them before.

Tighten the bar clamps.

That is all.

Can someone please explain to me what he means by "I use my eyebrow to push with", mine seem to automatically turn on their own or flop when up on my motorcycle jack. How tight/loose should this be? thanks
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post #20 of 23 Old 04-28-2020, 10:05 AM
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That is the trick; too tight will cause steering "weirdness" where you are constantly over-correcting, expecially at low speeds....(yes, a technical term! LOL) too loose will facilitate wobbles, etc. and way too loose will cause clunking and damaging the bearings. I've always taken the "eyebrow" comment as an attempt to reinforce that it should take very little pressure to move the bars. The cables make the whole procedure more difficult to set.....removing them would make things easier. When I first did this adjustment, I got it too tight and had to loosen it off again....it really is a very, very fine line.

this is the pertinent bit: You should have to push the bars from one side to the other with the bearing at the proper tightness.

But just barely.

In other words, the bars shouldn't FALL from one side to the other when you give them a slight push. If they do, tighten it some more and try again.

Dave
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